Everest my dream

30th anniversary of the first – ever summit of Everest in the winter season.

2010-02-18T16:32:00.005Z

Yesterday (February 17, 1980) was the 30th anniversary of the first-ever summit of Mount Everest in the Winter season.

Two Polish mountaineers, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy, reached the top of the world’s highest peak in 1980, going down in history as the first people to get there in winter.Over the last 30 years, seven people have so far completed the challenge in winter time, however, in Summer, the journey is easier, so 3,500 have managed to summit Everest.

The 20-strong group which initially set off for the mountain was whittled down to two – the final leg of the journey upwards took seven hours, said Leszek Cichy to Polish Radio.
There isn’t much snow in the Himalayas in winter, as it is blown off by heavy wind. Mount Everest is fortified against mountaineers with large slabs of ice, strong winds and frost. The temperatures in tents at night dropped to minus 40˚C.

“We were high up on the ridge, the nearest people were several hours walking distance away from us. The only thing that allows us to keep in touch was radio. The wind was strong. And, as we were descending, dusk set in and snow from western face blew in the air. And we found ourselves on the border between what is real and unreal, on the border between shadow and the sun, night and day, and also, in a way, between life and death,” Cichy said, referring to the last stages of the ascent.

Mt Everest 1980 first winter ascent – team.

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

- Krzysztof Wielicki the famous Polish climber./ Version polish and english /

- Leszek Cichy the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Previous story :

- Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

- The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

2010-02-06T16:23:00.001Z

Updated: Jan 25, 2010
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes

Check previous Everest expeditions

Did we forget you or your friends?
Mail us at:team@explorersweb.com

EVEREST TRAVERSES

Gavin Turner double traverse
American Gavin Turner will attempt a world first: Everest double traverse, from Nepal to Tibet and back, via Everest summit.

Gavin has been training for the undertaking during the last two years. He climbed Cho Oyu (with O2 from C3) and returned all the way back to ABC on summit day. In Washington, he climbed Rainier 7 times to the summit, including 4 solo ascents.
www.everestdoubletraverse.org

Andrew Lock Everet, take 3 Tibet/Nepal No-O2 traverse
After completing the 14×8000ers quest on Shisha Pangma last fall, Australian Andrew Lock aims for excellence by summiting Everest without O2 from Tibet and then traverse to Nepal. Andrew has summited Everest twice before, both times with supplementary Oxygen.
www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock

EVEREST SOUTH

Nobukazu Kuriki No-O2 ascent
After a failed attempt last year, Japanaese Nobukazu Kuriki plans to give Everest another shot this spring without O2.
www.plus-blog.spor tsnavi.com/bt_nobukazu2

Argentinean bicentennial expedition
The expedition goal is to summit Everest by May 2010, exactly 200 years after Argentina’s May Revolution.

All team members are Bariloche residents trained in the Andes. Climbers are Ramon Chiocconi, Alvar Puente, Marcelo Topo Deza, Carlos Charly Galosi and Leonardo Cuny Proverbio.

Brazil-Guatemala expedition
Manoel Morgado (BRA) with Andrea Cardona (GUAT) who will attempt the first Central American lady summit of Everest.
wwww.manoelmorgado.com.br

Waldemar Niclevicz’s Brazilian expedition
Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Gustavo Burda will guide climbers to the summit.

* update (February 1, 2010) Meanwhile, Brazilian Waldemar Niklevicz updated ExWeb that his planned Everest expedition has been postponed for 2011.
www.niclevicz.com.br

Brad Jackson and Sandy Hoby Australian Everest 2010 Expedition
After a failed attempt in 2008 as members in Altitude Junkies’ team, Australians Brad and Sandy are ready for a second round.
www.everest2010.com.au

Ta Loeffler Mountain of Learning
After a failed attempt in 2007, Ta of Newfoundland is back to Everest, climbing again from its south side. Ta hopes to bag Everest and Vinson in order to complete the 7 Summits quest.
www.taloeffler.com

Anne-Mari Hyrylinen – Skyclimbers Finnish expedition
The team’s mission is to help Anne-Mari Hyrylinen to become the first Finnish female Everest summiteer. The team will climb via the South Col route.
www.skyclimbers.com

Altitude Junkies
After a large number of expeditions in Tibet, leader Phil Crampton got a taste of Everest south side last year and goes for more this spring as leader of a fully-supported expedition.
www.altitudejunkies.com

Dawa Steven Eco Everest expedition 2010
Dawa Steven and his Eco Everest Expedition plan clean the peak up to 8000 m and above.

The plan this year is to bring down 1000 kgs of trash from above Camp 2 and 6000 kgs from Camp 2 and below.
www.asian-trekking.com

Peak Freaks
Tim Rippel’s outfit will return to Everest south side.
www.peakfreaks.com

Alpine Ascents International
The Everest regulars are back for another year.
www.alpineascents.com

Adventure Consultants
Another regular Everest commercial outfit back for more.
www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Everest

Explore Your Planet
Fresh from Antarctica, Scott Woolums is expected back on Everest south side this spring, leading a fully-supported expedition.
exploreyourplanet2009.blogspot.com/

RMI guides
Everest mega-summiteer Dave Hahn (the non-Sherpa climber with most Everest summits bagged) is back for more, leading RMI’s 2010 expedition.
www.rmiguides.com

IMG
Eric Simonson’s International Mountain Guides are back for Everest and Lhotse.
www.mountainguides.com

Mountain Madness
Ready to bag his 10th Everest summit, Willie Benegas will lead for MM as usual.
www.mountainmadness.com

Summit Climb
Dan Mazur is appointing Arnold Coster as leader on Everest south side. The US-based company is also launching teams on Everest north side and Lhotse.
www.summitclimb.com

Expedition Hanesbrands
Canadian Jamie Clarke aims for his second Everest summit.
climbwithus.com

Jagged Globe
Tim Calder will lead J-Gs team on Everests South Col route. The UK-based outfitter is also launching a team on the peak’s north side. www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Dream Guides
Fully-supported expedition led by 6-time Everest summiteer British Kenton Cool and Rob Casserley.
www.dreamguides.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. www.kobler-partner.ch

Costa Rica “David’s Braves” expedition
A Christian group known as Los Valientes de David (David’s Braves) hope to climb Everest for Jesus. Led by Enmanuel Menendez.
http://esparzacostarica.blogspot.com

HimEx
Of Discovery fame and Nangpa La/David Sharp infame, Russell Brice returns to Everest south side this year.
www.himex.com

EVEREST NORTH

Gerlinde & Ralf
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and husband Ralf Dujmovits will return to Everest north face for an oxygen-less attempt. Ralf has climbed all 14, 8000ers (Everest with O2), Gerlinde has Everest and K2 left.
www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at
www.amical.de

Alfredo Garcia no O2 ascent
Spanish Alfredo Garcia (28) will attempt Everest with Pedro Garcia and Martin Corrales. Garcia previously summited Gasherbrum II (2006), Cho Oyu (2007) and Broad Peak (2008).

The team will carry two emergency canisters but climb without O2.
www.everest2010.es

Jordan Romero Everest at 13

Together with his father Paul and Karen Lundgren; Big Bear Lake resident Jordan Romero hopes to summit Everest at the ripe age of 13.
www.jordanromero.com

Project-Himalaya
Jamie McGuinness is back in Tibet, leading a fully-supplied expedition.
www.project-himalaya.com

7Summits-Club
Alex Abramov and his 7Summit-Club team will be back to their usual Everest playground: the north side.
www.7summits-club.com

Adventure Peaks
The UK-based outfitter will also be climbing from the north side.
www.adventurepeaks.com

SummitClimb
Dan Mazur will lead a team on Big E’s north side.
www.summitclimb.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, plus Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Jagged-Globe
The British outfitter is guiding both sides.
www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Lhotse

Meagan McGrath back for more

After her solo, partial Antarctica ski this winter (Patriot Hills-South Pole), Canuck Aerospace Engineer Meagan McGrath will lead a trekking group to Everests BC and then climb Lhotse, before attempting K2 in summer.
www.meaganmcgrathadventurer.com

Marco Confortola+K2 Sherpa rescuer (tentative)
2008 K2 survivor Marco Confortola plans to climb Lhotse with one of the Sherpas who saved his life.
www.marcoconfortola.it

SummitClimb
SummitClimb’s Everest leader Arnold Coster will also guide a group attempting Lhotse.
summitclimb.com

IMG
Also IMG will guide both Everest and Lhotse.
gwww.mountainguides.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, plus Lhotse and Makalu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Annapurna double-headers

Edurne Pasabans ultimate double-header for the 14×8000ers
I’m definitely’ going to Annapurna in spring, but I’m also considering another attempt (my fifth) on Shisha Pangma during the same season, Edurne Pasaban told media.

Leading a climbing-filming expedition by Al Filo de lo Imposible (on the edge of the impossible) Spanish TV documentary series; Edurne teams up with regular partners Alex Chicon, Asier Izaguirre and cameraman Ferran Latorre.
www.edurnepasaban.net
www.endesayedurnepasaban.com
blogs.rtve.es/alfilo/posts

Jae-Soo Kim’s Kolon Sports South Korean expediton
Partner of the late MI-Sun Go, 10×8000ers summiteer Jae-Soo Kim is continuing her (and his own) 14×8000er project.

S.Korea Expressway Corporation Team
Mi-Gon Kim, Hong-Bin Kim are heading to Annapurna after Manaslu.

S. Korea’s BuSan Dynamic Team
Chang-Ho Kim is climbing Annapurna after a preparatory climb on a another (yet unconfirmed) 8000er.

Annapurna

Oh Eun-Sun: the final
Racing faster than anyone for the 14×8000ers, South Korean Oh Eun Sun chain-climbed Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I in just four months before dangerous conditions on Annapurna prevented her from completing her record quest. Now she is back and ready to finish the task, teaming up with her two regular Sherpas.
oes.blackyak.co.kr

Piotr Pustelnik: The Knight’s comeback
The Himalayan Knight is back to face his last 8000er for the fifth time.

Piort is dedicating the climb to long-time friend and climbing mate Piotr Morawski, perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri last year. Morawski’s death put an end to the legendary “Three Peters” (Pustelnik, Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor) who had accomplished some of the foremost Himalaya expeditions in later years.
This time, Piotr is putting together a team of seasoned Himalaya climbers, including Russian 11×8000er summiteer Serguey Bogomolov.
www.trekandmore.pl
himalman.wordpress.com

Joao Garcia for his final 8000er
Joao Garcia will attempt to become the first Portuguese 14×8000er summiteer on Annapurna.
www.joaogarcia.com

Young-Seok Park’s south face expedition
Following a new route on Everest SW face last year, South Korean 14×8000er summiteer Young-Seok Park now aims for Anna’s mighty south face.
www.parkyoungseok.com

Carlos Pauner for his “tough 9th”
With eight 8000ers bagged, Spanish Carlos Pauner hit a series of glitches on Shisha Pangma and Manaslu last year, now hoping for vindication on Annapurna.
www.carlospauner.com

Kangchenjunga

Nicholas Rice
American Nick Rice plans to give Kangchenjunga a shot, most likely by the British Route on the south face, and then head back to Pakistan for his second attempt on K2.
www.nickrice.us

Makalu

Field Touring Alpine – led by Fabrizio Zangrilli
American mountain guide Fabrizio Zangrilli will lead Australian/US outfitter Field Touring Alpine’s first expedition on Makalu.
www.fieldtouring.com
fabriziozangrilliguiding.blogspot.com

British Service SE Ridge expedition
UK military plan a second attempt on Makalu South East Ridge with team of 8 climbers drawn from across the 3 services.
raf.mod.uk

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Dhaulagiri

Chilean Expedicin Bicentenario Dhaulagiri
Ernesto Olivares will lead Juan Andres Covarrubias Alcalde, Juan Manuel Santa Cruz Campaa, Andre Claro Gubbins, Martin Riesco Wachholtz, Marcelo Grifferos Caceres and Francisco Larrain Amuntegui.
www.dhaulagiri2010.cl

Manaslu

Carlos Soria for his 9th 8000er at 71
Veteran Spanish climber Carlos Soria hopes to tick off his Himalaya no 9 at age 71.
http://www.carlossoriaalpinista.com

Shisha Pangma

Amical Alpin

Herbert Wold if appointed leader on Amical’s commercial expedition.
Amical.de

Cho Oyu

SummitClimb
Dan Mazur’s American outfit will hit Cho Oyu this spring.
summitclimb.com

Adventure Peaks
UK-based outfit AP will be there as well.
www.adventurepeaks.com

Amical Alpin
The Germany-based outfit will be led by Andreas Sippel.
Amical.de

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss outfit has also announced a Cho Oyu expedition in spring, 2009.
Kobler-partner.ch

* * Related Links :

- 2010 climbing season kick-off: Everest and Himalaya list of expeditions!

- Everest 2010: No Everest Traverses in 2010.

- Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Previous story :

- The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

How Much Does it Cost to Climb the Seven Summits?

2010-01-31T07:06:00.004Z

Author : Kraig Becker

The Outpost, the official blog of Outdoorzy.com, has an interesting post up January 22, 2010 that examines the costs of climbing the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on all seven continents.

Seven Summits map (click to enlarge).

The article looks at several broad categories and gives a good estimate of what each of them costs. For instance, they say that it’ll set you back roughly $1170 for training to ensure you know what you’re doing on those mountains, and another $9200 in airfare just to fly to the various countries that is home to one of these mountains. Throw in another $1500 for “incidentals”, which covers such things as visas and passports, and things start to add up quickly.

Of course, the largest category is for the guide services necessary to climb the 7 (+1) mountains. The Outpost says that you can expect to pay between $105,850 – $169,900 on guides depending on who you choose to go with. They do note that this is an area that can be highly customized, and that’s why there is such a large variance in the cost. Guide services are not all created equal, and sometimes you get what you pay for. Besides, do you really want to go cut-rate on this kind of trip?

The one category that I might disagree with their estimate on is gear, which they say will cost you $2000. In my opinion that is on the very low side, as I’ve seen down suits and thermal boots for Everest that will cost you that much alone. But I suppose, that this is, once again, an area that can really vary greatly, and you do indeed get what you pay for here as well.

So what’s the bottom line? Outdoorzy says that the grand total of making a Seven Summits bid is about $119,720 – $183,870. That doesn’t include the time you’ll need to get off work, as most of us aren’t sponsored climbers either.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Richard “Dick” Bass is the owner of Snowbird Ski Resort in Utah and the first man to climb the “Seven Summits.”

* Related Links : - Seven Summits.

- Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska. /Version english and polish/

- Climb Mt. Vinson - highest peak in Antarctica.

- Climb Aconcagua - one of the Seven Summits list. /Version english and polish/

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Previous story :

- The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

2010-01-23T07:38:00.002Z

Author: Alan Arnette.

To start any article on climbing deaths, it must be said that every death is devastating to family and friends and should never be taken lightly. I have helped bury climbing partners on high peaks and never wish that experience on anyone.

Sadly, mountaineering often receives mainstream media attention only when someone dies and especially on Everest. This was never more true than during the 1996 season that saw 8 people killed in a storm and then in 2006 when another 12 died while climbing. According to Eberhard Jurgalski’s 8000ers.com website, there have been about 4,024 summits since 1922 with 218 deaths or a 5.4% fatality rate.

Since 1990, the deaths have dropped to 4.4% due to better gear, weather forecasting and more rescue resources available, ironically, due to more climbers on the mountain. In 2009, about 281 people made it from the south and 60 from the north. There were 5 deaths. A record 500 people summited in 2007 evenly split between both sides, again with 5 deaths.

I wanted to examine the true statistics behind Everest in the past decade and looked to 8000ers.com for some facts. Based on his tables, the north side fatality rate is more than 2:1 over the south with falls, altitude issues and exhaustion noted as the primary reasons. The difference is even more extreme when the deaths of 9 south side Sherpas are taken from the total, making the ratio of “member or client” climber deaths from north to south 8:1. Here is the summary:

Reason	North Ridge Route	South Col Route	Other Routes
Fall	7	3	1
Altitude	8	2	1
Exhaustion	7	1	1
Unknown	5	1	1
Avalanche	0	3	2
Crevasse	0	4	0
Exposure	4	0	0
Heart	1	1	0
	32	15	6

That the north side death rate is higher is not a big surprise. The north is traditionally considered slightly more dangerous given the exposure to the cold and harsh winds plus the technical nature of the Steps and exposed rock on the summit ridge.

Due to lower costs, more independent climbers are on the north thus sometimes finding themselves alone in the event of a problem. Also, it seems that more climbers do not use supplemental oxygen on the north than on the south which also can accelerate altitude issues especially in the harshest of conditions.

However, there is no strong correlation between deaths of independent climbers vs climbers on commercial expeditions. Finally, with the exception of 2005 through 2007, the south has had significantly more climbers thus more rescue resources in the event of a problem. Traditionally, commercial operators focused on the south thus fielding more Sherpas.

As far as nationalities, the Nepalese Sherpas suffer the most with 10 of the 53 deaths this decade almost all on the south side from falls, avalanches and crevasse accidents. 6 South Koren climbers have died but no other single nationality has more than 4 deaths in the past decade. As far as operators, no one operator stood out since the majority of the non-Sherpa deaths were of climbers on private national climbs, large shared permits or were climbing independently.

I am often asked which side is safer and my answer is pick your poison. The south has the Khumbu Icefall and the north has the Steps and weather. However these numbers clearly show the north takes a stronger toll. But the real story is the role and impact of the unsung heroes – the Sherpas.

Climb On!

Alan

* Source : – Alan Arnette : 2010 Everest expeditions.

* Previous story :

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

2010-01-09T19:33:00.002Z

Author : Kraig Becker

It feels a little odd to be writing about the Everest 2010 season before Christmas, but when our friend Alan Arnette has already launched his coverage, I’m just trying to keep up. As regular readers know, Alan has the best coverage of Everest that you’ll find anywhere, and it looks like he’s going to surpass himself in the spring climbing season.

Mt. Everest – Everest 2010 season

Today we get a new entry that true Everest junkies will enjoy, as it is An Insider’s Look at Everest 2010, kicking things off with an interview with Phil Crampton, the owner of the Altitude Junkies, one of the best, and most reputable guide services on the mountain.

Alan begins the blog post with a little background on Phil, and his experience guiding in the Himalaya. From there, he goes into the interview itself, asking Phil about his thoughts for the spring climbing and trekking season in Nepal, whether or not he thinks it will be a “normal” year on Everest, and much more. The past few season’s on Everest haven’t been “normal” so to speak, thanks in part to the closures of Tibet, and the uncertainty of gaining access from that side of the mountain. Phil also talks about the rising costs of making a climb on Everest and the differences he found between climbing the North and South sides of the mountain.

All in all, Phil expects this to be a very good year on Everest, with a lot of the uncertainty from the past two years out of the picture. That should make a lot of climbers and trekkers more secure in their travels come spring time, but as Alan points out, we’re still 16 weeks away from the start of that season, and a lot can change between now and then.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

bean to cup

Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

2010-01-07T18:35:00.003Z

Author : Colin Wallace.

I am hoping to keep up to date with any British Teams or Britons on other permits climbing Mount Everest this season.

Are you climbing Mount Everest this Spring? If so please let me know and I will then add you to the list below.

Please remember that I have ONLY listed those members who are travelling on a British UK Passport.

List of the British teams climbing on Mount Everest 2010 season :

Adventure Peaks – Everest North Ridge Expedition – www.adventurepeaks.com

Bonita Norris – Global Angel’s 2010 Everest Expedition – www.bonitanorris.blogspot.com

Geordie Stewart – Northeast Ridge route – www.geordiestewart7summits.com

Jagged Globe – 2010 South Col Everest expedition – www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Adventure Extreme Expeditions – North Col route – www.mountaindynamics.co.uk

Trekking Encounters – South Col Route – www.trekkingencounters.com

Dream Guides – South Col Route – www.dream-guides.com

To keep up to date on how the British teams are doing while on Mount Everest please view our Dispatches.

* Source : – http://www.everest1953.co.uk/

Mount Everest The British Story For all information concerning the British on Mount Everest, we will provide the answers to many questions. From their first expedition to those of today, you will find a comprehensive history, list of summiteers, amazing facts, a gallery and much more.

** Previous story :

- K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs.

- No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks by Ed Viesturs.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

7th Krakow Mountain Film Festival. VII edycja Krakowskiego Festiwalu Górskiego. /Version english and polish/

2009-11-16T10:33:00.005Z

Mark your calendars!
4th to 6th December 2009 in Krakow, Poland.

VII KFG – 7th Krakow Mountain Film Festival.

The 7th Krakow Mountain Festival (KFG) starts in a 2 weeks (4-6 December 2009). As always, the most important part of the festival are guests and mountain films.

We have already written a bit about our guests. Let’s just remind you that among this year’s foreign climbing stars are Patxi Usobiaga – the world master of onsight (the Basque will also conduct climbing workshops,), Tommy Caldwell – the leader of free ascents on El Capitan, (Usobiaga and Caldwell will deliver their presentations on Saturday, December 5) and Rafał Sławiński – one of the most renowned mixed and ice climbers (his presentation will take place on December 6).

The Polish climbing scene will be represented, among others, by our best Himalayan climber Kinga Baranowska. There will be also other Polish climbers – both bigwall and sport. The full list of Polish guests will be published soon…

Last year, climbing workshops were conducted by Ines Papert – ice climbing champion (photo Adam Kokot)

Traditionally, the highlight of 7th KFG will be films. Of course, there will be the well established film events. First of all, the Polish mountain film contest Grand Prix KFG 2009*, which is a unique opportunity for young filmakers to present their pictures and also to confront their skills with more experienced masters. Secondly, we will have another dose of films from the Banff Mountain Film Festival – one of the most distinguished mountain film festivals in the world.

On Friday evening (4 December) we will watch some special screenings: a feature film Nordwand, directed by Philipp Stölzl and a documentary tribute to the 100th anniversary of the Tatra Mountain Rescue Service, directed by Anna Maria Filipow, titled Na każde wezwanie Naczelnika (review). For those still not unsatisfied, we have a film block “On Rock and Ice” which consists of four films: Ice, Anarchy, and the Pursuit of Madness (direction Steve House), Grit Flick – Slab and Crack (direction Alastair Lee), Huber Brothers in Antarctica (direction Max Reichel), Sharp End (direction Peter Mortimer).

KFG cannot exist without the prestigious “Jedynka” award, which is given in recognition of exceptional achievements in alpinism and sport climbing.

In the previous years, a proper dose of adrenaline was ensured by “Jumping to a hold” competitions. However, this year the event will be taken over by boulderers who will compete in the Finals of Polish Bouldering Cup (Sunday, December 6). Most probably there will be lots of emotions…

Traditionally, during this year’s edition of KFG, there will be many lectures and workshops on safety in mountaineering and climbing, and also – similarly to the last year – freeride workshops.

The segment “Safe Mountains” will be conducted by the representatives of the Tatra Mountain Rescue: Jakub Jasiński, Marcin Józefowicz and Andrzej Maciata. The workshops “Safety in the mountains: how to survive an unexpected bivy…” will be led by Wladek Niemiec – an instructor of the Polish Association of Alpinism and Tomek Nodzyński – a Tatra guide. The lectures will be accompanied by avalanche courses and first aid trainings.

Additionally, as usual, there will be also a chance to visit Outdoor Garment and Equipment Fair.

This is just a preliminary outline of the Festival’s timetable. The detailed KFG 2009 programme can be found on the organizer’s website (caution: the programme is evolving all the time).

Date: 4-6 December 2009
Place: University of Economics, Krakow, ul. Rakowicka 27.

* oficial site : – VII KFG – 7th Krakow Mountain Film Festival

* Mountain Film Festivals :

** Previous story : – Mountain Film Festivals

1 5th Krakow Mountain Film Festival - V KFG /Version polish and english/

2 VI KFG - 6th Krakow Mountain Film Festival. 6 edycja Krakowskiego Festiwalu Górskiego. /Version english and polish/

7. Krakowski Festiwal Górski

W dniach 4-6 grudnia odbędzie się 7 Krakowski Festiwal Górski. W ciągu trzech dni w Krakowie gościć będzie wielki alpinistyczny świat. A w nim wybitne górskie osobowości, podróżnicy, świetni fotograficy, film, pokazy multimedialne, dyskusje, zawody sportowe, muzyka etc. Słowem prawdziwe święto gór, którego nie można przegapić.

Na scenie festiwalowej wystąpi światowa i polska czołówka himalaistów, wspinaczy wielościanowych i sportowych. Tegorocznymi gwiazdami zaproszonymi na festiwal są: żywa legenda klasycznej wspinaczki wielkościanowej Amerykanin Tommy Caldwell, jeden z najlepszych wspinaczy sportowych świata Hiszpan Patxi Usobiaga oraz mieszkający od lat w Ameryce, czołowy wspinacz alpejski i lodowy Rafał Sławiński.

Polską scenę wspinaczkową reprezentować będzie między innymi obecnie nasza najlepsza himalaistka, Kinga Baranowska. Będą również inni przedstawiciele polskiego wspinania, zarówno wielkościanowego, jak i sportowego. Pełna lista polskich gości festiwalu już wkrótce…

Hala pełna widzów – tak było na festiwalu w 2008r .

Na festiwalowym ekranie pojawią się filmy górskie z najwyższej, światowej półki z kanadyjskiego Banff Mountain Film Festival. Miłośnicy filmu górskiego będą mogli również śledzić zacięty wyścig polskich produkcji o Grand Prix KFG 2009. Po raz kolejny w konkursie polskiego filmu zobaczymy kilkanaście najlepszych obrazów o tematyce górskiej polskiego autorstwa.

Już tradycyjnie podczas festiwalu wręczona zostanie prestiżowa „Jedynka” za wybitne osiągnięcie na polu alpinizmu i wspinaczki sportowe.

Festiwal Krakowski to również wystawy czołowych polskich fotografików z dziedziny gór i alpinizmu, gorące dyskusje o ekologii, zasadach bezpieczeństwa i wspinania w górach. W tym roku również nie zabraknie interaktywnych kursów lawinowych oraz paneli dotyczących najważniejszych zasad bezpiecznego poruszania się po górach. Swoje warsztaty, prowadzone przez profesjonalistów, będą również mieli miłośnicy fotografii cyfrowej. Osobnym panelem będzie również po raz pierwszy Małe KFG skierowane do najmłodszych.

Na tegorocznym KFG nie zabraknie oczywiście wykładów i warsztatów poświęconych zasadom bezpieczeństwa i wspinania w górach, a także – wzorem ubiegłego roku – warsztatów Freeride’u.

Blok “Bezpieczne Góry” poprowadzą przedstawiciele TOPR-u; Jakub Jasiński, Marcin Józefowicz i Andrzej Maciata. Natomiast warsztatami “Bezpieczeństwo w górach: Jak przeżyć niespodziewany biwak…” pokierują; instruktor alpinizmu PZA Waldek Niemiec i przewodnik tatrzański Tomek Nodzyński. Wykładom towarzyszyć będą interaktywne kursy lawinowe i kursy pierwszej pomocy.

Nie zabraknie również emocji sportowych. W czasie tegorocznego Festiwalu rozegrane zostaną Finały Pucharu Polski w Boulderingu.

Bardzo ważnym elementem VII KFG będzie Kiermasz sprzętu i odzieży outdoorowej.

Miejsce: Uniwersytet Ekonomiczny w Krakowie, ul. Rakowicka 27.

Festiwal odbywa się na terenie Uniwersytetu Ekonomicznego [mapa]

Plan miasta i tereny UE :

Plan sytuacyjny imprez festiwalowych :

Pawilon Dydaktyczno-Sportowy

Festiwale filmów górskich :

*Zobacz inne posty o festiwalach : – Mountain Film Festivals

** Źródła : – http://www.kfg.pl/ – http://www.wspinanie.pl/

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Attraction of Nepal Outdoor Country.

2009-09-27T09:09:00.003+01:00

Nepal represents a blend of ancient history, vibrant cultures and scenic grandeur. Located between China and India, Nepal’s main geographical features include show-capped peaks, lower mountains, mid hills and fertile plains of tropical jungles. Nearly one-third of the total length of the Himalayas and 8 of the world’s 14 highest peaks lie in Nepal. The land-locked country covers an area 147,181 sq. kilometers ranging from 70 meters to the highest point at 8848 meters above sea level. Nepal’s popularity as a tourist destination has increased vastly over the years. While trekking and mountaineering have long been popular, an entire range of other activities are also being carried out.

Trekking

Trekking is the highlight of a visit to Nepal. On account of the wide range of geographical features, the country nurtures a variety of vegetation and landscape. In addition to the natural endowments is the rich Himalayan culture. Thousands of visitors trek to different parts of Nepal every year to experience the charm of nature and culture. Most treks go through altitude between 1000 to 3000 meters, although some popular parts reach over 500 meters.

Protected regions along the Himalayas, like Shey-Phoksundo National park, Annapurna Conservation Area, Manaslu Eco-Tourism Area, Langtang National Park, Sagarmatha National Park and Makalu Barun National Park provide excellent trekking options. For group trekkers arrangement for food and accommodation are managed by the trekking crew, while independent trekkers can find night rest and food halt at small lodges and tea houses that dot the main trails. Independent trekkers should be self sufficient. In remote areas like Makaly, Kanchanjanga in East Nepal or Jumal, Dolpa in West Nepal, one must be self-sufficient in terms of food and water. For further details – www.taan.org.np

Boating

Nepal provides excellent opportunities for boating from glacier-fed lakes up north down to where rivers ease into the Terai plains. With famous lakes like Phewa, Begnas and Rupa, Pokhara is one of the most popular destinations for boating.

In the terai, one can go canoeing on Narayani or Rapti rivers near Chitwan National Park. Boats and canoes can also be rented from local dealers on hourly basis. Pokhara and Chitwan are accessible both by air and road from Kathmandu. A wide variety of accommodation and other facilities are easily available in both the places.

Rock climbing

Rock climbing is another challenging sport for outdoor lovers. Most of the areas for rock climbing are situated towards the north of Kathmandu Valley in the vicinity of the Nagarjun forest and the Shivapuri National Park Trip to these places can be combined with hiking, bird watching, nature tours and other activities. Nagarjun, 3 kilometers from Kathmandu City can be reached via Balaju near the New Bus Park. Shivapuri can be reached via Budhanilkantha which is 9 kilometers away form Kathmandu.

Bungy Jumping

The ultimate thrill of a bungy jump can be experienced at one of the best sites in the world. Nepal’s bungy jumping site is situated 160 meters over the wild river Bhote Koshi. The site is located close to the Nepal-Tibet border at Barahbise and is a three-hour bus ride from Kathamndu. A package deal includes the jump, bus ride to the site and even meals. Nepalese are entitled to a 30 percent discount. Accommodation and other facilities are available in Barahbise.

Golf

The popularity of golf is on the increasing stage in Nepal having five golf courses: Royal Nepal Golf Course and Gokarna Forest Golf Resort in Kathmandu, Himalayan Golf Club and Fulbari Resort Golf Course in Pokhara and Nirvana Country Club in Dharan. The best time for a play is during the dry season between October and March. Golf clubs in Kathmandu and Pokhara offer excellent courses with magnificent view of the Himalayas.

Golf is one of the most expensive sports, was started in Nepal by the Royal families. The history of golf in Nepal goes back to the time when a delegation of Rana ministers returned home with golf clubs from a visit to Scotland. They started playing golf in what is today’s Gaucharan. The first real golf tournament Lava Cup was started in 1920.

The Gokarna Forest Golf Resort is one of the finest in South Asia. It is a 72-course golf area with 18 holes. The course is set in an old forest area of the Valley. Near the resort is Harmony Spa, for soothing golf senses. Established in 1829, Royal Nepal Golf Course in Kathmandu’s Til Ganga is one of the oldest of Nepal and of Asia. The course was conferred the title of ‘Royal’ in 1911.

The Himalayan Golf Club in Pokhara situated about 6 kilometers away from the city is a recently completed pro-championship designed 9 holes golf course which is located in a beautiful amphitheater like setting of a river canyon scene with a panoramic view of the Annapurna Himalayan range.

Jungle Safari

The tropical jungles of Nepal’s Terai preserve some of the vest wildlife habitat in the subcontinent. Jungle safaris on elephant back or jeep rides are offered at Parsa Wildlife Reserve, Bardia National Park, Chitwan National Park and Shukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve, all located in Terai. The best time to visit the Terai is during winter months when weather is more temperate. A wild range of tourist facilities are available in and around the areas.

Mountain Biking

Nepal’s diverse terrain is what mountain bikers’ dreams are made of. Biking offers an environmentally sound way of exploring the country. It is possible to go biking the entire length of Nepal. Centuries – old dirt roads and trails offer a chance to go on extended trips to exotic locals like Annapurna and Kanchanjunga areas. 21 to 27 gear bicycles are recommended when riding through tough terrain. Mountain bikes are available for rent for a day or longer in numerous bicycle rental outlets in and around Kathmandu or Pokhara. Riders can explore rims and ridges of Kathmandu and Pokhara through off routes that weave in and out of the cities. Food and accommodation are easily available around vally and the main trail. However, it is recommended to use the services of licensed biking companies.

Hunting

Licensed hunting is allowed in Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve in West Nepal. Dhorpatan is a prime habitat of blue sheep, ghoral, serow, Himalayan tahr, black bear, pheasant and partridge. Endangered species here are chir pheasant and red panda. Hunting is allowed only after acquiring license from the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation in Kathmandu and is restricted to a certain time in a year. Dhorpatan is four days treks from Baglung which is 72km from Pokhara. The best time to visit Dhorpaton is during February through April and August through October. Accommodation is offered in tented camps by agencies or at one of the village houses. For further detail – www.dnpwc.gov.np

Honey Hunting

Honey hunting is an age-old tradition here in Nepal. Local honey hunters show their exceptional skill by hanging themselves from cliffs as high as 300 meters using bamboo ladders and hemp ropes, while harvesting the honeycombs.

See the spectacular honey hunting on the steep bee cliffs to experience the tradition and culture of the

local people. See them while you trek in the foothills of The Himalayas.

Rafting, Kayaking and Canyoning

Rafting is one of the most exciting ways of exploring the wilderness of Nepal. Option ranges from paddle rafting a team to kayaking alone in the water. Yet another extremely popular water-sport option is canyoning to explore hidden landscapes. The best time for these activities is October through mid-December and March through early May. The government has opened 16 rivers graded on a scale of 1 to 5 for commercial rafting. Since safety is of utmost importance choosing veteran rafting company is a wise move. It is also important to observe all the safety rules and precautions provided by the River Guide. For further details – www.raftingassociation.org.np

Mountain Flights

Mountain flights offer passengers a spectacular view of the Himalayan peaks. The one-hour mountain flight takes within camera range of some of the highest peaks in the world. The peaks seen are Gosaithan, Dorje Lhakpa, Phurbi Chyachu, Choba Bhamare, Mt. Gaurishanker, Melungtse, Chugimago, Mt. Number, Karyolung, Cho-Oyu, Gyachungkang, Pumori, Nuptse and finally Mt. Everest. Mountain flights are offered by several airlines especially in the morning from domestic airport in Kathmandu.

Paragliding

Paragliding in Nepal gives an opportunity for aerial view of the Himalayas. Pokhara, the beautiful lakeside town at the foot of the Annapurna Mountains offers paragliding services. Best season is from Octover through April. There are various deals for the paragliding veterans and novices. Three-day introduction course is offered to beginners while tandem flights where one can fly with instructor are offered.

Ultra Light Aircraft

Ultralight aircrafts offer a breath-taking bird’s-eye view of Pokhara Valley and the surrounding mountains. Best season is from October through April. Flights take place from sunrise to 11 a.m. and from 3 p.m. to sunset every day during these months. In the half-hour flight, one can fly over Pokhara city, Phewa Lake, Sarangkot hill and ger a close to the Mt. Fishtail (Maccha Puchhre). Another option is the coploration of the Annapurna range from 12000 feet or higher in an hour. Pokhara is easily accessible from Kathmandu, Chitwan and other major towns.

Fishing and Angling

Fishing is also gaining popularity in Nepal. There are approximately 118 varieties of fresh-water fish in the Himalayan Rivers ranging from the much sought after mahseer to the mountain stream trout-like varieties. The best season to go fishing on the white waters is before and after the monsoon from February till April and October and November.

Mountaineering

Mountaineering is another prime attraction of Nepal. The mountains of Nepal have stood as irresistible landmarks for the world’s adventures since Nepal opened its door to visitors in the 1950s. Mountaineering can range from climbing the highest peak of the world to climbing lower peaks. Although by Himalayan standards 33 “trekking peaks” are considered minor peaks, they nonetheless provide snow and ice-climbing opportunities and are technically quite challenging. Mountaineering teams can apply for permit at mountaineering section of the Ministry of Culture, Tourism ad Civil Aviation. For further information log on to www.tourism.gov.np or www.nepalmountaineering.org .

Climbing gears can be bought or rented in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Many of the mountaineering and trekking companies also offer packages, where they provide gear, food, transportation, guides, porter services and also arrange for insurance coverage. Knowledge of altitude sickness and acclimatization process is a must for every mountaineer. The fatal sickness, also known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can he dangerous for climbers ascending 3000 meters and above. Symptoms include headache, loss of appetite and sleeplessness. Immediate descent or evacuation to lower altitude is the best cure.

Hot Air Ballooning

To look up into the sky and see the towering mountains of the Himalaya, or even walk amongst them, is a valid and popular reason to visit Nepal. However, to glide silently amongst them is perhaps the most thrilling of all. The adventure of hot air ballooning is now available from Kathmandu. The balloon will float approximately 1,200 to 1,500m above the valley, bringing passengers close to 3,000m high. From this altitude the entire Himalaya Range can be viewed due to the 360 degree visibility hot air ballooning affords, together with fantastic views of the Kathmandu valley below.

* Source : – http://www.nepalmountainnews.com/

** Previous story : – Trekking

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Die Trying by Bo Parfet and Richard Buskin.

2009-09-21T07:14:00.001+01:00

In the world of mountaineering and adventure, the Seven Summits is one of the most sought after goals. In order to complete the challenge, a climber must successfully climb the tallest mountains on all seven continents. The list includes Kilimanjaro in Africa (19,340 feet), Aconcagua in South America (22,841 feet), Denali in North America (20,320 feet), Mt. Vinson in Antarctica (16,050 feet), Mt. Elbrus in Europe (18,442 feet), Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia (16,024), Mount Kosciuszko in Australia (7,310 feet), and of course Mt. Everest in Asia, the tallest mountain on the planet at 29,029 feet. Sharp eyed readers will have already noted that that was eight mountains and not seven. When the original list was put together by Dick Bass, the first man to climb all of the Seven Summits, he included just the continental mountains, and thus Kosciuszko in Australia was on the list. Later, the list was amended by Reinhold Messner to to included all of “Oceania” which then added Carstensz Pyramid to the list. Most climbers do both just to cover their bases.

The Seven Summits are the the central theme for the book Die Trying by Bo Parfet and Richard Buskin, which was released earlier this year. The book follows Parfet’s quest to climb each of those mountains, as he goes on a journey of self discovery along the way.

Parfet does a competent job of telling his own story, starting as a young man who struggled with a learning disability, but over came that to go on graduate college and get a lucrative job on Wall Street. But in the midst of working many long hours, while constantly eating takeout, and slowly getting out of shape, Parfet decided he needed to put a little excitement into his life. So, he planned a trip to Tanzania to make the trek up Kilimanjaro. While in college he had done some climbing, and caught the bug, but he had never been up as high as he was on Kili, and when he reached the summit, it gave him a sense of accomplishment that ended up changing his life.

From there, Bo decided that he would move on Aconcagua, which other climbers told him was a nice test to see if he could handle even higher altitudes. At that time, he wasn’t even considering the Seven Summits, just going on a mountain adventure that would get him out away from his desk and out of his office. Parfet became creative with his approach, even using his corporate ties to do fund raising for a variety of charities that would help get him to the places he wanted to go climbing in. Not only was he getting to climb mountains, he was doing some good along the way too.

Eventually mountaineering began to become a more important part of his life, and by the time he left for Denali, his third peak in the Seven Summits, he was in better shape, carrying more appropriate equipment, and had experience level had risen dramatically. After topping out successfully on that mountain, which is often seen as a warm-up for Everest, he began to think about completing the Seven Summits in earnest.

Overall, I enjoyed Die Trying, as it is a good read to familiarize yourself with the mountains that make up the Seven Summits, and learn the basics of mountaineering. Parfet does a good job of describing the conditions that are faced on each of the Summits, and explains the various approaches to climbing each of them as well. He also mixes in plenty of his own personality, giving the story a more accessible, personal approach. He comes across as a likable guy that you wouldn’t mind sharing a camp fire with, swapping stories into the night.

But make no mistake, this book isn’t amongst the all time great mountaineering books. It is a fun, light read, and if you’re looking for something new for your bookshelf, then by all means, give this one a go, just don’t expect Into Thin Air or even Dick Bass’ own Seven Summits, which I preferred to this book, although it is a bit dated now. For a fun adventure story though, you could do a lot worse.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Bo Parfet homepage : – http://boparfetdietrying.blogspot.com/

** Previous story : - Books.

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

The 14th Andrzeja Zawada’s Mountain Film Review – Lądek-Zdrój September 2009.

2009-09-16T06:34:00.003+01:00

Mark your calendars!
14th Andrzeja Zawada’s Mountain Film Review 2009
18th to 20th September 2009 in Lądek-Zdrój, Poland.

The 14th Andrzeja Zawada’s Mountain Film Review will take place in Lądek-Zdrój on 18-20 September 2009. This year’s edition runs in several places of our beautiful health-resort. According to the tradition main part of the review is set in Kinoteatr, where all pictures and all diaporamas will be showed. It is proper to add, that the most interesting foreign movies are derived from British Kendal Film Festival. There are also 7 diaporamas to be showed.

The main office of the review will be set in Kinoteatr.
The musical part of the event will be varied by Czech funky and rock band called ‘123 Min.’ in the Saturday evening in Amphitheatre. After that we invite all MFR participants to the mountain hut near Geovita recreation centre, where another wicked band will entertain us till the daybreak.

One of the most important events will be literary gathering with Anna Milewska, famous actress and Andrzej Zawada’s wife, which will take place in Albrechtshalle café on Friday at 8 pm. She will present her new book called ‘The life with Zawada’.
Another accompanying event will be Lądek’s Namche Bazaar (which takes the name from the village in north-eastern Nepal the gateway to the high Himalaya), visitors will find there variety of exotic handmade goods form India, Nepal and Tibet. Apart from the bazaar it will not lack the of HiMountain’s products. This company is our main sponsor.

During the MFR new disciplines of extreme sports are going to be present. The visitors will be able to see slackline and treeclimbing shows. Slackliners and arborists promised, that participants of MFR can also have a try in both disciplines.
On the other hand for all anxious souls there will be workshops and presentation of tai chi technique. If it is not enough, there will be possibility to take a walk among new curative tracks around the health resort, which will be opened on Sunday.

There will variety of attractions we have made up, so everyone who has even small bond with mountains is going to be satisfied.

More information find on website www.przeglad.ladek.pl

* Mountain Film Festivals :

** Previous story : – Mountain Film Festivals

XIV Przegląd Filmów Górskich im. Andrzeja Zawady.

Już po raz czternasty Centrum Kultury i Rekreacji w Lądku Zdroju organizuje Przegląd Filmów Górskich im. Andrzeja Zawady. Tegoroczna edycja odbędzie w dniach 18-20 września 2009 w kilku obiektach tego pięknego uzdrowiskowego kurortu.

Tradycyjnie, główna jego część będzie miała miejsce w Kinoteatrze, gdzie wyemitowane zostaną wszystkie festiwalowe filmy i zaprezentowane diaporamy. Warto zwrócić uwagę, że najciekawsze filmowe propozycje zza granicy pochodzą z festiwalu w Kendal. Jak co roku, pokazany zostanie bogaty zestaw diaporam, tym razem będzie ich 7!

W Kinoteatrze również funkcjonować będzie główne biuro przeglądu. W ramach części muzycznej lądecki Amfiteatr Zdrojowy w sobotni wieczór gościć będzie supergwiazdę z Republiki Czeskiej, czyli funkowo-rockowe “-123 Min.”. Jeszcze tego samego wieczoru w chacie góralskiej przy ośrodku Geovita w ramach festiwalowych peregrynacji muzycznych i tanecznych zagra kolejna odjazdowa kapela.

Jednym z ważniejszych, “niefilmowych” punktów programu, jest spotkanie z Anną Milewską, znaną aktorką, żoną Andrzeja Zawady. Wieczór autorski odbędzie się w zdrojowej kawiarni “Albrechtshalle” pierwszego dnia przeglądu o godz. 20.00. Spotkanie promować ma ostatnią książkę Anny Milewskiej, “Życie z Zawadą”.

Inną pozafilmową propozycją organizatorów jest “Lądeckie Namche Bazar” (nazwa od nepalskiej miejscowości, która jest ostatnią osadą w drodze na Mount Everest), czyli targowe miasteczko, w którym będzie można nabyć egzotyczne wyroby z Indii, Chin, Nepalu i Tybetu. Poza tym wschodnim bazarem nie zabraknie oczywiście stoiska firmy “HiMountain”, głównego sponsora imprezy.

Jako nowości w świecie sportów ekstremalnych zaprezentowane zostaną pokazy slackline i freetree. Linoskoczkowie i arboryści obiecali, że będzie można w obu tych dyscyplinach spróbować własnych sił. Natomiast dla wszystkich niespokojnych dusz przewidzieliśmy pokazy i warsztaty tai chi. Jeśli jednak tai chi nie uspokoi duszy, będzie można wybrać się na spacer nowymi Trasami Kuracyjnymi, których oficjalne otwarcie planujemy w festiwalową niedzielę.

Atrakcji przygotowanych przez lądeckie Centrum Kultury będzie sporo. Każdy zatem, kto choć w niewielkiej mierze czuje więź z górami, znajdzie podczas festiwalu coś dla siebie.

Więcej informacji o Przeglądzie Filmów Górskich im. Andrzeja Zawady w Lądku Zdroju na stronie: www.przeglad.ladek.pl.

Festiwale filmów górskich :

*Zobacz inne posty o festiwalach : – Mountain Film Festivals

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

5th Mountain Film Festival Zakopane 2009. /Version english and polish/

2009-09-01T06:40:00.003+01:00

Mark your calendars!
2009 Zakopane – 5th Mountain Film Festival
10th to 13th September 2009 in Zakopane, Poland.

Film & Foto Competition 5th Mountain Film Festival.

Zakopane Mountain Film Festival Association announces the following competitions:

5th International Mountain Film Competition and 3rd International Mountain Photography Competition ‘Space of Life’. The deadline for sending all entries is 30th and 15th June 2009.

The winners will be announced during 5th Mountain Film Festival, which takes place from 10th to 13th September 2009 in Zakopane, Poland.

5th Mountain Film Competition
Films produced after 30th September 2007 are eligible for the competition. Entries may include: feature films, documentaries, cartoons and all other films thematically linked to the mountains. The films may portray various mountaineering activities (e.g.: climbing or skiing), promote environmental aspects, report on social and political issues or other. The films admitted to the competition will be judged by a Jury composed of three representatives. The winner will be awarded The Grand Prix of Mountain Film Festival “Great Wooden Mountain” worth 3 800 PLZ. There are four additional special prizes founded by the Major of City of Zakopane, Tatra National Park Director, Tatra Mountains Rescue Team, Tatry Monthly, Youth Jury and our Audience.

3rd International Mountain Photography Competition ‘Space of Life’
The topic of this competition are mountains, mountain nature and people who live in the mountains. This year formula has been changed – there are no more thematic categories, but free interpretation of the topic of mountains understood as “Space of Life”. Both professionals and amateurs can take part in the competition. The Grand Prix is 3 000 PLZ. Additional prizes are founded by the Major of City of Zakopane, Tatra National Park Director, Tatra Mountains Rescue Team, Tatry Monthly, Youth Jury and by our Audience.

Regulations and entry forms can be downloaded from “Mountain Film Competition” and “Mountain Photography Competition” headings, which are at the top of our website.

Don’t miss it!

* oficial site : – Zakopane Mountain Film Festival

** Mountain Film Festivals :

** Previous story : – Mountain Film Festivals

RUSZYŁY KONKURSY !

Stowarzyszenie Spotkania z Filmem Górskim ogłasza konkursy: 5. Międzynarodowy Konkurs Filmu Górskiego oraz 3. Międzynarodowy Konkurs Fotografii Górskiej „Przestrzeń Życia”.

Terminy nadsyłania prac upływały 30 i 15 czerwca. W obu konkursach do wygrania Grand Prix.

Rozstrzygnięcie nastąpi podczas 5. Spotkań z Filmem Górskim, które odbędą się w dniach 10-13 września w Zakopanem.

5. Spotkania z Filmem Górskim – Weź udział w warsztatach.

V Spotkania z Filmem Górskim w tym roku proponują dwa bardzo różne warsztaty filmowe.

WARSZTAT I
Autorski Warsztat Filmu Krótkiego
6-9 września 2009

Prowadzący:
Krzysztof Kokoryn
Wojciech Kliczka
Każdy uczestnik musi posiadać kamerę cyfrową (może być amatorska). W warsztacie weźmie udział 6 osób. Zgłoszenia prosimy przesyłać do 3.09.2009 na adres: biuro@spotkania.zakopane.pl
Koszt: 350 zł (cena obejmuje udział w zajęciach i 3 noclegi w Zakopanem)

WARSZTAT II
Warsztaty Filmu Dokumentalnego
(jak pracować z kamerą i jak rozmawiać z przed kamerą)
10-11 września 2009

Prowadzący:
Anna Pietraszek
Rafał Szendzielarz
Każdy uczestnik powinien posiadać kamerę cyfrową (może być amatorska). Zgłoszenia prosimy przesyłać do 5.09.2009 na adres: biuro@spotkania.zakopane.pl
Koszt: 200 zł (cena obejmuje udział w warsztatach i 2 noclegi
ograniczona liczba miejsc)
Koszt: 100 zł (cena obejmuje tylko udział w warsztatach)

Więcej na www.spotkania.zakopane.pl

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Kontakt: biuro@spotkania.zakopane.pl

Wpłaty na konto:
Spotkania z Filmem Górskim
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International Alliance for Mountain Film.

W roku 2009 nasz festiwal został doceniony przez międzynarodową organizację – International Alliance for Mountain Film, która przyjęła nas w poczet swoich członków. IAMF zrzesza największe i najważniejsze festiwale filmów górskich na świecie. Są to min. festiwale w : austriackim Graz, słowackim Popradzie, bułgarskim Bansko, kanadyjskim Banff, francuskim Autrans, niemieckim Tagernsee, włoskim Trento i w Turynie, hiszpańskim Torello, szwajcarskim Les Diablerets i Lugano, amerykańskim Taos oraz w Moskwie.

Więcej informacji dotyczących International Alliance for Mountain Film na stronie:

- International Alliance for Mountain Film.

Festiwale filmów górskich :

*Zobacz inne posty o festiwalach : – Mountain Film Festivals

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K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs.

2009-08-15T15:40:00.002+01:00

K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs – Coming October 2009 – Pre-order your copy today!”

About the Author :

Ed Viesturs become the first American climber to reach the summit of all the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, in May, 2005. This May, he summited Everest for the 7th time.

He is the first American, and 12th person overall, to summit all fourteen mountains over 8000 meters (collectively known as the eight-thousanders), and the sixth climber to do it without bottled oxygen.

* Ed Viesturs homepage : – http://www.edviesturs.com/

* see – Ed Viesturs the famous American climber

ABOUT THIS BOOK :

A thrilling chronicle of the tragedy-ridden history of climbing K2, the world’s most difficult and unpredictable mountain, by the bestselling author of No Shortcuts to the Top

At 28,251 feet, the world’s second-tallest mountain, K2 thrusts skyward out of the Karakoram Range of northern Pakistan. Climbers regard it as the ultimate achievement in mountaineering, with good reason. Four times as deadly as Everest, K2 has claimed the lives of seventy-seven climbers since 1954. In August 2008 eleven climbers died in a single thirty-six-hour period on K2–the worst single-event tragedy in the mountain’s history and the second-worst in the long chronicle of mountaineering in the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges. Yet summiting K2 remains a cherished goal for climbers from all over the globe. Before he faced the challenge of K2 himself, Ed Viesturs, one of the world’s premier high-altitude mountaineers, thought of it as “the holy grail of mountaineering.”
In K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain, Viesturs explores the remarkable history of the mountain and of those who have attempted to conquer it. At the same time he probes K2’s most memorable sagas in an attempt to illustrate the lessons learned by confronting the fundamental questions raised by mountaineering–questions of risk, ambition, loyalty to one’s teammates, self-sacrifice, and the price of glory. Viesturs knows the mountain firsthand. He and renowned alpinist Scott Fischer climbed it in 1992 and were nearly killed in an avalanche that sent them sliding to almost certain death. Fortunately, Ed managed to get into a self-arrest position with his ice ax and stop both his fall and Scott’s.
Focusing on seven of the mountain’s most dramatic campaigns, from his own troubled ascent to the 2008 tragedy, Viesturs crafts an edge-of-your-seat narrative that climbers and armchair travelers alike will find unforgettably compelling. With photographs from Viesturs’s personal collection and from historical sources, this is the definitive account of the world’s ultimate mountain, and of the lessons that can be gleaned from struggling toward its elusive summit.

* Source : – http://www.randomhouse.com/

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No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks by Ed Viesturs.

2009-08-08T08:30:00.003+01:00

About the Author :

Ed Viesturs become the first American climber to reach the summit of all the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, in May, 2005. This May, he summited Everest for the 7th time.

* Ed Viesturs homepage : - http://www.edviesturs.com/

* see – Ed Viesturs the famous American climber

Publisher Comments:

This gripping and triumphant memoir follows a living legend of extreme mountaineering as he makes his assault on history, one 8,000-meter summit at a time.

For eighteen years Ed Viesturs pursued climbing’s holy grail: to stand atop the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, without the aid of bottled oxygen. But No Shortcuts to the Top is as much about the man who would become the first American to achieve that goal as it is about his stunning quest. As Viesturs recounts the stories of his most harrowing climbs, he reveals a man torn between the flat, safe world he and his loved ones share and the majestic and deadly places where only he can go.

A preternaturally cautious climber who once turned back 300 feet from the top of Everest but who would not shrink from a peak (Annapurna) known to claim the life of one climber for every two who reached its summit, Viesturs lives by an unyielding motto, “Reaching the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” It is with this philosophy that he vividly describes fatal errors in judgment made by his fellow climbers as well as a few of his own close calls and gallant rescues. And, for the first time, he details his own pivotal and heroic role in the 1996 Everest disaster made famous in Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air.

In addition to the raw excitement of Viesturs’s odyssey, No Shortcuts to the Top is leavened with many funny moments revealing the camaraderie between climbers. It is more than the first full account of one of the staggering accomplishments of our time; it is a portrait of a brave and devoted family man and his beliefs that shaped this most perilous and magnificent pursuit.

Review:

“In the opening scene of Viesturs’s memoir of his quest to become the first American to climb the 14 mountains in the world higher than 8,000 meters, he and a friend nearly get thrown off the face of K2 when they’re caught in an avalanche. It’s one of the few moments in the story when his life genuinely seems at risk, as his intense focus on safety is generally successful. ‘Getting to the top is optional,’ he warns. ‘Getting down is mandatory.’ That lesson comes through most forcefully when Viesturs recounts how he almost attempted to reach the summit at Everest the day before the group Jon Krakauer wrote about in Into Thin Air, but backed out because it just didn’t feel right. His expertise adds a compelling eyewitness perspective to those tragic events, but the main focus is clearly on Viesturs and his self-imposed ‘Endeavor 8000.’ From his earliest climbs on the peaks of the Pacific Northwest to his final climb up the Himalayan mountain of Annapurna, Viesturs offers testimony to the sacrifices (personal and professional) in giving your life over to a dream, as well as the thrill of seeing it through.” Publishers Weekly (Copyright Reed Business Information, Inc.)

* Source :- http://himalman.wordpress.com/

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Michael 'Bronco' Lane - Interview.

2009-08-05T09:46:00.013+01:00

In 1976 legendary climber Major Michael ‘Bronco’ Lane joined the first all-military expedition to climb Mount Everest.

Michael 'Bronco' Lane reached the summit of Mount Everest on the 16th May 1976 with fellow partner John 'Brummie' Stokes while on the Joint British Army & Royal Nepalese Army Everest Expedition. Bronco then went on to be leader of the 1983 Special Air Service Regiment Everest Expedition.

‘Bronco Lane is an exceptional soldier whose spirit of adventure and readiness to take risks has led him to the most extreme and dangerous places on earth - including the summit of Mt. Everest.’ - General Michael Rose.

Brummie and Bronco, Brummie being the one on the right.

Source: John "Brummie" Stokes

1. You joined the Army Mountaineering Association while in the Special Air Service. Do you think you would of started climbing if it wasn’t for the Army?

I joined the Army aged 16 as a Junior Leader in November 1961 after being introduced to basic mountaineering whilst participating on an Ullswater Outward Bound Course. 'Topper Brown' my first Troop Sergeant had been an instructor at Tywyn Army Outward Bound School and he continued to nurture an interest in general. However it was not until I joined 22 SAS Regiment in 1967 and found myself in a Mountain Troop that I really developed my involvement.

2. Its been 33 years since you were on the Summit of Mount Everest. Do you still remember your time up there?

Yes I do have a series of selected memories, probably nurtured by my still giving the odd slide presentation. Besides the obvious ones of isolation, cold and effects of altitude the single over-riding aspect is one of a total focus to just keep going -eight to ten steps at a time - then a long pause to recover and move on again, for as long as it takes.

3. You left your top camp at 6am for the summit and had agreed with Brummie Stokes that if you were not on the summit by midday you would turn around and head back. You both reached the summit at 3.15, what happened to your turn around time?

We paused on reaching the South Summit at 1pm, when a short break in the clouds gave us a tantalising view of the Hillary Step and the final summit slopes.

I remember looking at my watch, noting the time and turning to Brum gave him a 'thumbs up'! He replied with an affirmative 'thumbs up' and I continued to traverse the cornice ridge across to the Step. In a similar situation I very much doubt if any mountaineer anywhere near the summit of Everest would have reacted differently.

4. On the descent you and Brummie Stokes were forced to bivouac because of the bad weather. During that night did you ever imagine that you would survive to see the morning?

We left the summit at about 15:40 in poor visibility and with very little oxygen left. We had cached a spare bottle at 28,000 feet and our over-whelming need was to find this. We safely abseiled back down the Hillary Step and somehow reached the South Summit, after which a combination of thick cloud, total lack of trail and no oxygen had us stumbling onwards, in a pretty bad state. Then, just at last light and without any illumination, we arrived at our upright orange bottle stuffed in a snow bank.

Totally exhausted in the darkness we huddled facing each other sitting on our sacks with the bottle between us. Brum had the first go at connecting and could not get a secure join and slumped. In total desperation, I took off my outer mitt and wearing just my thin contact glove was able to get a sound coupling. We swapped over the mask every few minutes through-out the long night. Both of us experienced hallucinations and rubbed each others backs and legs to stimulate circulation, as we slipped in and out of unconsciousness. Fortunately never both of us together.

Around about midnight, the storm died down and it became a cold, clear but luckily a windless night, which was our salvation.

I do not recall ever thinking "I'm not going to make it". Possibly soldiers have that part of their psyche removed early in basic training, as there will be lots of times on active operational service when all that goes through the mind is "Stick It! Stick It! Stick!" to keep you alive.

5. Due to the cold you lost 5 fingers and 10 toes. How long did it take you to recover from this ordeal?

Three months later during a very hot summer, we had the frost bitten digits surgically removed by Mr Charles Renton, a well respected surgeon at Hereford County Hospital. It would take a further six months for the stumps to heal sufficiently for our return to active service with the unit.

6. Is it true that you gave the National Army Museum your 5 fingers and 10 toes for them to exhibit in the museum?

Yes. They had originally been donated to the London Wellcome Museum for their medical exhibition and following a re-organisation were returned and I kept them in my garage. Some years later whilst giving a lecture at the National Army Museum Chelsea, to promote my book Military Mountaineering, I was asked if I had anything suitable for a permanent loan. So the digits found another useful home, from where they have made special 'guest' appearances here and there.

7. What is your view on the many commercial expeditions that are on Everest every year?

Amongst the many negative aspects, to my mind the one major plus factor is that a good percentage of the wealth generated today on Everest remains with the Sherpa peoples of the Solu Khumbu.

8. Of all the mountains you have climbed on around the world which is your favourite?

In the summer of 1972 I was a member of the 12 strong AMA Axel Heiburg Expedition in the Canadian Arctic. We split into teams of four and ours spent six weeks in the field climbing virgin peaks accessed by glaciers. We climbed over 30 and I named one 'Kneecap' in recognition of Brum who was absent having his shattered kneecap removed, following an incident in the Dhofar War when he'd tried to stop an AK47 round.

9. Today, most items used on Everest are lighter, smaller and of better quality. Which item used today would you of liked back in 1976?

Double Plastic High Altitude Boots so I could still walk around barefooted!

And finally, my last question.

10. Do you think that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine climbed the Second Step?

Yes I most certainly do!

The above Questions & Answers are (C) Copyright of Mount Everest The British Story

* Source : - http://www.everest1953.co.uk/BroncoLane.html

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Ed Viesturs the famous American climber.

2009-07-31T14:39:00.002+01:00

Birthdate: 6/22/59
Specs: 5-foot-10, 165 pounds
Home: Bainbridge Island, Washington
Full Bio: Click here to view

Ed Viesturs is America’s leading high altitude mountaineer, having climbed many of the world’s most challenging summits, including ascending Mount Everest seven times. He recently completed a 16-year quest to climb all 14 of the world’s highest mountains (above 8,000 meters) without the use of supplemental oxygen. In doing so, he became the first American and the 5th person in the world to accomplish this. He reached the summit of his 14th peak, Annapurna, on May 12, 2005. This May, he summited Everest for the 7th time.

“When I first attempt a Himalayan peak,” Viesturs explains, “I climb without bottled oxygen, even if it keeps me from reaching the summit. My personal goal is to see how I can perform, to experience the mountain as it is without reducing it to my level. For me, how I reach the top is more important than whether I do.

“I’m aware of the tricks that altitude and hypoxia can play on you. While climbing, I test myself, asking myself whether I’m aware of the conditions, of my actions, and of what is around me.”

“Once climbers are on oxygen,” Viesturs continues, “they become stronger. But it’s a bit of a crutch. Without it, I don’t have a mechanical apparatus that can fail on me and thereby endanger me. The oxygen system is awkward. Sunglasses won’t fit over the mask, so I have to wear goggles, which fog up. Also, I can’t seem to suck enough air fast enough through the valves of the mask — I have to rip it off to take a full breath.
“Most importantly, I’m aware of the tricks that altitude and hypoxia can play on you. While climbing, I test myself, asking myself whether I’m aware of the conditions, of my actions, and of what is around me. Exhaustion and hypoxia can cause one to lose it mentally, and I never allow myself to fall into this state. When I’m guiding, however, I always use oxygen. You’re there for the clients, and oxygen does enable you to function better, both physically and mentally.”

Viesturs was born in 1959 and grew up in the flatlands of Rockford, Illinois, where the highest objects on the horizon were water towers. His parents were immigrants – his father, a mechanical design engineer from Latvia; his mother from Germany – who arrived in the early 1950s. In high school, Viesturs read and was captivated by Annapurna, the French climber Maurice Herzog’s famous and grisly account of the first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak in 1950. I reminded Viesturs that Herzog’s tale had a lot more frostbite, amputation, and near-death suffering than it did fun. “That’s not what interested me,” he replied.
“What I liked was that these guys had a goal and they just wouldn’t give up. They spent months and months finding the mountain; then they climbed it. So simple, so basic. I’m a very goal-oriented person, and I like things that take a long time to accomplish.”

After some beginner’s rock climbing at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin, Viesturs left the Midwest for the University of Washington in 1977 and inaugurated a long-running obsession with Mount Rainier. “I could see it from my dorm window, and it became my focus,” he says. “I was maniacal about it. Every weekend, I’d bum a ride or hitchhike, rain or shine, just to be on the mountain.”
He eventually landed a job as a guide with Rainier Mountaineering Inc., then began a four-year period combining veterinary studies at Washington State University in Pullman and guiding during the summer. After becoming a vet in 1987, Viesturs practiced in two clinics run by friends who reluctantly gave him months off at a time to climb in the Himalayas. Finally, his absences were too long and too frequent, and he was forced to choose: be a vet or be a climber. He chose the mountains.

* Source : – Ed Viesturs homepage

* zobacz : Album - Zdobywanie Mt. Everst

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The Elizabeth Hawley Story - I’LL CALL YOU IN KATHMANDU.

2009-07-24T08:05:00.002+01:00

I’LL CALL YOU IN KATHMANDU
The Elizabeth Hawley Story

She defied the conventions of her era: an American women on her own in Nepal for more than four decades, celebrated as the unofficial chronicler of Himalayan expedition climbing.

• Based on extensive interviews with Hawley, celebrated mountaineers, and Kathmandu intimates, and full access to Hawley’s meticulous records and correspondence.
• Follows the development of Himalayan mountaineering and Nepal’s entry into the twentieth century.
• Details friendships with famed climbers Hillary, Messner, Bonington, Humar, Viesturs, and more.
• Foreward by Sir Edmund Hillary, who considers Hawley his closest link in Nepal.

One of the most important figures in Himalayan climbing may be someone who has never been to Everest Base Camp, and is not a climber. In 1960, a young American woman, Elizabeth Hawley, moved to Nepal as a reporter for Time, Inc. Initially sending home political dispatches from the kingdom, it wasn’t long before Hawley’s pen found its niche: mountaineering in the world’s highest places. She quickly became part of the Kathmandu scene, socializing regularly with an eclectic group of adventurers, climbers, royalty, politicians and entrepreneurs. Hawley is still in Kathmandu today and has been the unofficial chronicler of every detail of every expedition mounted from Nepal in the Himalaya from more than four decades.

What would motivate this single American woman, the product of a Midwest upbringing, to travel solo during this era to one of the most remote and enigmatic places on the globe? How did she command the respect of climbers from around the world (some of whom report fear of her sharp tongue and rigorous interview style)? How did she remain an authoritative figure for 40 years during the most intense climbing of this region—the “Golden Era of Himalayan Climbing”? What changes did she see take place in mountaineering and in the political landscape of this region?

Although the intensely private Ms. Hawley is an enigma even to those who know her well, I’ll Call you in Kathmandu reveals Hawley as a complex personality, with a rich personal life.

BERNADETTE MCDONALD is Vice President, Mountain Culture at the Banff Centre and Director of the Banff Mountain Film Festival. She is the co-editor of Voices From the Summit: The World’s Great Mountaineers on the Future of Climbing, and other titles.

256 pages, 30 b&w photos, 2 maps, hardbound, $24.95
ISBN 0-89886-800-9. BIOGRAPHY.
Published by The Mountaineers Books

Available now in bookstores.

Review : – BERNADETTE MCDONALD

* Source : – http://www.himalayandatabase.com/hawleybio.html

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Dark Summit – The True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil.

2009-07-20T08:30:00.001+01:00

Editorial Reviews :

From Booklist :

The year 2006 recorded Mount Everest’s deadliest season on record since 1996 (the killer season that spawned Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air).

To tell the story of the 2006 season, which made global headlines due to the troubling circumstances surrounding the death of a climber, journalist Heil, a climber himself, gives us extensive background (more than half the book is a prologue to the 2006 season, and while the backstory will be pertinent to aficionados, it may prove frustrating to those waiting for the real story). There is plenty of fascinating material here, especially the excellent profiles of the key players (including flamboyant Russell Brice, Everest’s most successful commercial operator, a larger-than-life figure who seems to belong on a movie screen), but as a chronicle of the mountain’s “most controversial season,” the book feels padded, as though the author felt he had only enough material for a long article. Recommend this one to mountaineering devotees only, but don’t expect it to attract the kind of general audience that found Krakauer.
- David Pitt.

Review :

“In this authoritative, colorful look at the grimmest Everest season in years, Dark Summit carries forward Outside magazine’s formidable tradition of high alpine literature. Nick Heil is alive to Everest’s majesty but fiercely skeptical of those hubristic souls who attempt to ‘conquer’ her. Through rock-solid reporting and vital prose, Heil leads us up into this rarefied world, step by hypoxic step.”— Hampton Sides, author of Ghost Soldiers and Blood and Thunder.

“Here is humanity itself, personified in exemplary fashion by Nick Heil, addressing the Everest culture’s lack of compassion and coming up with the right answers. Dark Summit is an extraordinary tale, ribboned with wisdom and profound insight, delivered by a first-rate storyteller. I consider the book not a sequel to Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, but an equal.”— Bob Shacochis, author of The Immaculate Invasion.

“Dark Summit illuminates the nuanced personalities of Everest’s modern commercial age accurately, with neither heroic romanticism nor guile. Nick Heil takes a critical yet objective look at Everest and the community of Everest climbers, and then leaves you to pass judgment. If you couldn’t put down Into Thin Air, you must read Dark Summit to understand what it means to climb Everest today and why anyone might accept the risk.”— Peter Athans, seven-time Everest summiter and The North Face athlete.

Product Description :
The inside story of the deadly 2006 climbing season on Everest.

On May 15, 2006, a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit. A week later, Lincoln Hall, a seasoned Australian climber, was left for dead near the same spot. Hall’s death was reported around the world, but the next day he was found alive after spending the night on the upper mountain with no food and no shelter.

If David Sharp’s death was shocking, it was hardly singular: despite unusually good weather, ten others died attempting to reach the summit that year. In this meticulous inquiry into what went wrong, Nick Heil tells the full story of the deadliest year on Everest since the infamous season of 1996. He introduces Russell Brice, the commercial operator who has done more than anyone to provide access to the summit via the mountain’s north side—and who some believe was partly accountable for Sharp’s death. As more climbers attempt the summit each year, Heil shows how increasingly risky expeditions and unscrupulous outfitters threaten to turn Everest into a deadly circus.

Written by an experienced climber and outdoor writer, Dark Summit is both a riveting account of a notorious climbing season and a troubling investigation into whether the pursuit of the ultimate mountaineering prize has spiraled out of control.

About the Author

Nick Heil first wrote about the 2006 climbing season for Men’s Journal. Now a freelance journalist based in Santa Fe, New Mexico, he was a senior editor at Outside from 1999 to 2006. He has also worked as a climbing and skiing instructor, and has traveled extensively in Europe, Asia, and North America.

* Source : – http://www.amazon.com/

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Events - Polish climbers in Himalayas.

2009-07-19T08:18:00.001+01:00

1. Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką, która zdobyła Kanczendzonge.

2. Biggest tragedy of Polish climbers in Himalayas - Mount Everest Expedition 1989. Everest za cenę życia.

3. Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

4. Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

5. Polish winter expedition to K2, (8611m), 2002/3

6. Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki - Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

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Karakoram Climbing Events.

2009-07-19T08:16:00.000+01:00

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Himalaya Climbing Events.

2009-07-19T08:14:00.000+01:00

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Mallory's Clothing Could Have Climbed Mt. Everest.

2009-07-17T07:53:00.002+01:00

This article is a few years old now but still a good read if you have not seen it before!

In the Beginning

The project started a couple of years ago after the 1999 and 2001 Mallory/Irvine Expeditions on the big mountain set out to try and locate the bodies of the two climbers and see whether any evidence could be found of summit success. It was known that they were carrying a camera and the frozen conditions might have preserved the film.

George Mallory's body was famously located in 1999 and his possessions returned to his relatives. They wanted to pass on the mountaineering items to a heritage association, but nothing existed; Mary Rose picked up on the void and became involved. Fortunately the BMC had plans to open a museum and the items have now become the centre piece of the National Mountaineering Museum's displays.

Mary Rose was fascinated by the whole business and set about finding funding for an investigative project. The first stage was to document the items of clothing found on Mallory's body and to cross check with the Expedition Report to ascertain whether an answer could be found to the 75 year-old clothing debate - were the climbers were warm enough to be able to survive a summit attempt? Did their clothing offer enough flexibility to allow them to climb the obstacles on the route.

There were some fragments of clothing left on the body and these were tested through Southampton University's Textile Conservation Centre at Winchester and the normal mountaineering test labs at the University of Leeds. These gave crucial insights into the seven layers of thin natural fibre clothing worn. It had been calculated that the garments worn had a tog value of 3.5 togs.

Over the last year similar fabric and construction methods were researched so that a set of garments could be made up almost identical to the original items - not an easy job as patterns have changed, materials developed and construction methods improved.

As a reference point, Mary's Rose's husband - who is the same size as Mallory - and Alan Hinkes donned ancient and modern high altitude clothing side by side. Hinkes noticed how close fitting the 1924 replica garments were compared to his bulky modern suit plus the absence of zips - only just been invented in the 1920s - which must have made toilet breaks significantly more fiddly.

Side By Side

Alan's modern clothing weighed 4.825 kg compared to just 4.160 kg for the Mallory replicas, and the 1920s garments also offered better movement as the layers slid easily over each other.

(C)OUTDOORSmagic

The making of the Replicas

The team was headed up by Vanessa Anderson (a student on Derby Uni's MA) and Joyce Meader who took us through the up to seven layers worn: essentially silk, wool, silk, wool and finishing with an outer layer of Burberry cotton gabardine, with the hassles of sourcing the products.

It was interesting to note that elastic was not around then so there was no way to use underwear as it is used nowadays. Also many of the woollen items would have had to be had knitted by the families of the expedition members. It became obvious why Bernard Shaw's take on the outfits used was like 'a Connemara picnic surprised by a snowstorm'.

The boots have still not been investigated properly (any prospective PhD's wanting a subject?), but had novel hob-nails (attached through the 3mm leather sole, but insulated from the feet by a 10mm felt) and were calculated to weigh 0.8kg - compared to the 1953 footwear at 1.2kg, Al Hinkes's at 1.4 kg and Chris Bonington's at 1.8kg.

Three layers of socks worked with three layers of long-johns and military-style puttees. Compare this to the original lightweight boot revolution headed up by the KSB, which weighed in at just over 0.5 kg and it can be surmised how the 1924 initiated the current trend for lightweight outdoor items.

Documents from the 1910 era recorded how Hope and Kirkpatrick alpine summited with 2.8kg packs (that weighed just 0.8kg when empty!). No glove information has been developed and a call to anyone who might be able to shed light on the subject was put out. Another interesting item revealed was a woollen Buff type object (made from the best Merino), that had a multitude of uses ranging from head gear to kidney warmers.

Conclusions - It Was Possible

The conclusion was drawn that Mallory and Irvine had the correct clothing to enable them to survive at that altitude, plus the ability to climb easily while wearing it all.

They were also working in conjunction with the clothing and with the levels of fitness that allowed them to reach that altitude, would theoretically have been able to successfully summit the world's highest mountain.

* Source: OUTDOORSmagic

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Andrew Comyn Irvine one of the famous British climber.

2009-07-13T06:17:00.001+01:00

Andrew Comyn (Sandy) Irvine was born in Birkenhead England on the 8th April 1902. His father, William Fergusson Irvine, a business man, married Andrews mother, Lilian Davies-Colley, and eventually went on to have a large family. Andrew had four brothers, Hugh, Kenneth, Alexander (known as Alec) and Thomas (known as Tur) plus one sister, Evelyn.

Andrews childhood was full of adventure as most youngsters were, but he was also brought up with strict rules and discipline from both very religious parents. Andrew was educated at Birkenhead and Shrewsbury School’s before going to Merton College in Oxford to study engineering. Andrew was also a very keen sportsman and became a member of the Oxford crew for the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race in 1922 and 1923.

Andrew was very good with his hands, and he had the ability to fix or improve anything mechanical. It was during the First World War, while Andrew was still a schoolboy, he sent the War Office a design on paper to allow a machine gun to fire from a propeller-driven aeroplane without damaging the propeller’s blades.

In 1919, Andrew rode his motorcycle to the top of a 3000-foot Welsh mountain, Foel Grach, where he surprised Noel Odell and his wife who had climbed it on foot.

In 1923 Andrew was chosen for a expedition to Spitsbergen, where he excelled on every front. It was during this expedition that Noel Odell, the expedition’s leader, had discovered that it was Andrew riding the motorcycle on top of Foel Grach. Noel Odell was so impressed by Andrew that he recommended Andrew for the third British Mount Everest expedition. Andrew was selected on the grounds that he might be the ’superman’ that the expedition needed. Andrew was 21 years old when this opportunity arose.

In 1924 Andrew showed that he was not frighten of hard work. He made major changes to the oxygen apparatus, maintained the expedition’s stoves, camp beds, cameras and many other important devices. Andrew became very popular and respected by his older colleagues.

Andrew was to find himself teamed up with George Leigh Mallory on the last summit attempt after a previous two attempts had failed. Using oxygen for this attempt they reached Camp V1 with no real problem.

On the 8th June 1924 expedition member Noel Odell reported seeing them at 12:50 pm ascending one of the major “steps” on the ridge and “going strongly for the top”. That was the last time they were seen alive.

When Odell returned to the tent at Camp V1 the following day to see if Mallory and Irvine were there, he found the inside of tent covered in bits and pieces from the oxygen apparatus. So it looks like that the young Andrew was still maintaining the oxygen apparatus the night before or the morning of their summit attempt.

The body of Andrew ‘Sandy’ Irvine has never been found.

The above Questions & Answers are (C) Copyright of Mount Everest The British Story

* Source : – http://www.everest1953.co.uk/ChrisBonington

** take a look at my photo gallery which pictures the story of the discovery and climbing the Mt. Everest :

- discovery and climbing Everest.

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George Leigh Mallory one of the famous British climber.

2009-07-10T07:40:00.005+01:00

George Leigh Mallory was born in Mobberley, Cheshire England on the 18th June 1886. His father, Herbert Leigh Mallory was a clergyman to the local parish church, who married George’s mother, Annie in 1882. George had two sisters, Mary and Annie Victoria (known as Avie), also a younger brother Trafford. George had a happy childhood and was given considerable freedom which led to many adventurous escapades.

In 1896, George attended Glengorse, a boarding school on the south coast of England, From there he won a scholarship to Winchester College. It was here that George was introduced to rock climbing and mountaineering by R Irving, a master at the college, who every year took some of his pupils climbing in the Alps. In 1905, George went to the Magdalene College in Cambridge.

Once George took his degree in history he decided to stay in Cambridge and wrote an essay that was later published as Boswell the Biographer. George had now decided to become a teacher. In 1910 he began teaching at Chartherhouse School in Surrey.
While at Charterhouse George met Ruth, and they were married in 1914. George and Ruth had two daughters, Clare and Beridge and a son, John. As 1915 came to a close George signed up to the Royal Garrison Artillery and in 1916 he went to war and took part in the shelling of the Somme.

After the war George returned to Charterhouse as a teacher where he resigned in 1921 to join the first Everest expedition. In 1923 he took a job as lecturer at the Cambridge University. Again, George was given temporary leave so that he could join the 1924 Everest attempt.

In 1904, in a party led by Irving, George attempted to climb Mont Velan in the Alps, but he turned back not far from the summit due to altitude sickness. In 1911, George, again with a party led by Irving, reached the summit of Mont Blanc as well as Mont Maudit.
By 1913 George was at the peak of his rock-climbing powers and ascended Pillar Rock in the Lake District, England. He climbed it with no aid or assistance which has been graded as ’Hard Very Severe’. It is now known as ’Mallory’s Route’.

In 1921 George took part in the British Reconnaissance Expedition, organised and financed by the Mount Everest Committee. The expedition produced the first accurate maps of the region around the mountain. George was accompanied by several members of the British Alpine Club and surveyors based in India.

George and his climbing partners, G Bullock and E Wheeler, with the aid of some Sherpas, climbed several smaller peaks in the Everest region, including the North Col, to take a closer look at Everest and to view any potential route to the summit. After circling the mountain from the south side, his party finally discovered the East Rongbuk Glacier. By climbing up to the saddle of the North Ridge, Mallory not only became the first to set foot on Everest, but also saw a route to the summit via the North-East Ridge.

In 1922 George returned to Mount Everest as a member of the party led by General Charles Bruce, with the hope of making a serious attempt for the summit. George led his climbing team of Howard Somervell and Edward Norton almost to the crest of the North-East ridge, before weather conditions and the late hour forced them to retreat. A second party led by George Finch reached a height of approx. 27,300 feet (8,321 m) using bottled oxygen. Determined for one more try George organised a third attempt on the summit, which would end in disaster. As George was leading a group of porters on the lower slopes of the North Col in fresh, waist-high snow, an avalanche swept over the group, killing seven Sherpas. The attempt was immediately abandoned. (There is one of most famous photo in the world. George Mallory and Edward Norton – Everest at 8200 m. They ascended without use of oxygen. British expedition – 1922 r. – take a look at my photo gallery which pictures the story of the discovery and climbing the Mt. Everest : – discovery and climbing Everest.

George went to Mount Everest again in 1924, his third time. The expedition was led by General Charles Bruce as in 1922. The first attempt for the summit was George and Geoffrey Bruce, and then another by Edward Norton and Howard Somervell, all which ended in failure to reach the summit. In an third attempt George chose Andrew Irvine as his partner and this time decided to use oxygen. On the 8th June George and Andrew left the safety of Camp V1 for their attempt to reach the summit. Noel Odell who was climbing up behind them in support reported the following:

“At 12.50, just after I had emerged from a state of jubilation at finding the first definite fossils on Everest, there was a sudden clearing of the atmosphere, and the entire summit ridge and final peak of Everest were unveiled. My eyes became fixed on one tiny black spot silhouetted on a small snow-crest beneath a rock-step in the ridge; the black spot moved. Another black spot became apparent and moved up the snow to join the other on the crest. The first then approached the great rock-step and shortly emerged at the top; the second did likewise. Then the whole fascinating vision vanished, enveloped in cloud once more.”

George Leigh Mallory and Andrew Irvine were never seen again.

Back in Britain the news of Mallory and Irvine’s disappearance came as a shock and was widely mourned to the extent that the two were hailed as national heroes.

In 1999 the body of George Leigh Mallory was found high on the North Face of Everest.

The above Questions & Answers are (C) Copyright of Mount Everest The British Story

* Source : – http://www.everest1953.co.uk/

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- Mallory's Clothing Could Have Climbed Mt. Everest.

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George Mallory & Andrew Irvine Tribute - video on YouTube.

2009-07-09T13:13:00.002+01:00

I would like to invite you to watch one of movie of Everest collection…
George Mallory & Andrew Irvine Tribute - video on YouTube.

George Leigh Mallory and Andrew Irvine were two English mountaineers who took part in a British expedition to Mount Everest in 1924. On the 8th June, both disappeared somewhere high on the North-East ridge during (or perhaps after completing) the final stage of their attempt to make the first ascent of the world's highest mountain, 29 years before Hillary and Norgay. The pair's last known sighting was only a few hundred metres from the summit. Mallory's ultimate fate was unknown for 75 years, until his body was finally discovered in 1999. Whether or not they reached the summit before they died remains a subject of speculation and continuing research.

* Source : – http://everest1953.blogspot.com/ ; – http://www.youtube.com/

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16th annual International Climbers’ Festival - Lander, Wyoming.

2009-07-09T04:42:00.006+01:00

Climbing, community, parties, fun, friendly competition, learning, remembering and celebrating… These are the goals for the 16th annual International Climbers’ Festival (ICF)!

* Download the 2009 Festival program!

About The ICF :

The ICF is a non-profit organization that was started by local Lander climbers in 1993 and has been run by climbers ever since!

Lander, Wyoming is a climbing Mecca and the perfect community to host this grassroots festival. Located in central Wyoming, Lander sits at the base of the spectacular granite-filled Wind River Range, which has some of the best multi-pitch trad routes in the country. Just outside of town are the legendary sport-climbing crags of Sinks Canyon and Wild Iris, both easily accessible and with endless walls of steep limestone pockets.

We’re excited to welcome you to our town! See you in July!

- Lindsay Nohl

2009 ICF Director

International Climbers’ Festival
Director: Lindsay Nohl
P.O. Box 1304
Lander, WY 82520
Phone: 307-349-1561
email: climbersfestival@gmail.com

For more information, click on : – http://climbersfestival.org/

Mountain Film Festivals :

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Berg Adventures International - one of the best mountaineering agency.

2009-07-08T14:18:00.001+01:00

I Recommend …

Berg Adventures International - http://www.bergadventures.com/

About Berg Adventures International :

Challenge, personal achievement, cultural learning and our unsurpassed dedication to your adventure travel experience — that’s the Berg Adventures promise.

Founded by world-class guide, educator and expedition leader Wally Berg, Berg Adventures International (BAI) is committed to travel, adventure, and learning.

Wherever we go, our goals for each adventure are the same:

Personal Achievement:

Adventure travel is always humbling. The accomplishments of exploring the far-off places and climbing high peaks can enrich lives far beyond the excitement of reaching a summit or the end of a magnificent journey. The preparation, training and dreaming that precede a great adventure are important parts of the total package. From a Galapagos exploration to the top of Mount Everest, from Marco Polo’s Silk Road to your quest to climb the Seven Summits, we will be with you every step of the way to help you realize your goals.

Cultural Tourism:

A deeply rewarding part of every BAI trip is connecting with the good friends we have made during our decades of trips on every continent. Your BAI adventure will be led by top guides who will help you immerse yourself in the culture around you, not stay apart from it.

Cultural interaction is a big part of a BAI trip.

Solid, Fun Group travel:

Years of expedition life have shown us the value of teamwork while exploring new terrain of the earth and the spirit. Through the intensity of your efforts in wild, demanding places, and the laughter shared along the way, expect to build strong bonds with your teammates.

We also realize that your journey may be intensely personal. With our high ratio of BAI guides and support staff, you can move at your own pace and still be fully engaged in the social framework of the team.

Communication:

We pride ourselves on having seamless communications. Wherever we are in the world, guides are in direct contact with BAI’s home office. Our state-of-the-art equipment ensures clear communications among all team members, too.

The Internet expedition dispatches we’ve pioneered since 1997 are perfect for sharing your personal odyssey. Family, friends, and associates back home can check the BAI web site each day for the latest updates and photographs of your travels. You can access all the reports and pictures from your travels whenever you want by clicking on our permanent archives. Check the Dispatches section of our site for archived dispatches from recent BAI adventures.

Unique Adventure Travel Itineraries:

The highest peak on every continent. The snow-capped summit of Kilimanjaro. Everest Base Camp. The vast wilderness of Antarctica. The Galapagos Islands. The summit of Mount Everest. Whatever your chosen destination, Berg Adventures goes where few others venture. Our personalized, uncompromising dedication to quality sets us apart from all the rest.

We tailor every journey to meet your expectations. Friends and family members sharing a travel adventure will find every aspect of the trip perfectly matched to their individual abilities and interests. Whether it’s group travel, corporate adventures, or charity and fund-raising climbs, we bring uncompromising standards of service and quality to helping you turn your dreams into success.

BAI trips are unique, too, because of what happens before and after our major treks and climbs. Our ascent of Mount Elbrus begins and ends in the captivating Russian city of St. Petersburg. We climb Lobuche Peak before attempting the summit of Ama Dablam. And a Berg Adventures safari is worth the trip to Africa on its own, and a great adventure to share with family and friends after a Kilimanjaro summit climb.

Berg Adventures Knows the Value of Teamwork

Responsible Travel:

In an age of ‘Leave No Trace’ principles, we continue our long-standing commitment to ecologically sensitive, low-impact adventures.

Through cultural awareness and personal connections in the communities we visit, we have established goodwill and long-term relationships with many people around the globe. BAI’s staff members on every continent are well-paid, care about your experience, and are eager to share their cultures with you and draw you into their world.

We hope you’ll make Berg Adventures a part of your next great adventure!

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Kinga Baranowska – famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

2009-07-06T09:18:00.004+01:00

Kinga Baranowska – (born 1976) – polish mountaineer. Currently living in Warsaw. She summited her first eight-thousander – Cho Oyu – in 2003. Failed on attempt to reach one of the most difficult seven-thousander Jengish Chokusu in Tian-Shan range. In 2006 she successfully reached the top of Broad Peak. On the June 11, 2007 summited Mount McKinley and one month later on July 18 she successfully climbed Nanga Parbat. On year later she summited Dhaulagiri (May 1, 2008 ) – her first attempt to reach the summit from north-east face, in September, 2007 failed.

Climbers summited Dhaulagiri May 01, 2008. Teams : Iván Vallejo (his 14th 8000er), Ferrán Latorre, Nacho Orviz, Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio, Edurne Pasaban (her 10th 8000er), Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (her 11th 8000er), David Göttler, Carlos Pauner (his 8th 8000er), Marta Alejandre, Asier izaguirre, Alex Txicon, Muptu Sherpa and Polish Kinga Baranowska all summited Dhaulagiri in 40km/h winds, thunder and lightning on the summit.

Kinga Baranowska the first Polish woman climber to reach the Summit of Dhaulagiri.

Kinga Baranowska the first Polish woman climber to reach the Summit of Manaslu.

Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga.

On 18th of May Kinga Baranowska as the first Polish woman (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warsaw) summited Kangchenjunga (8586 m) which is located in Nepal.

Kangchenjunga have been summited in high winds – however, descent on Kang is reportedly very difficult.

Kinga’s Summits :

Cho Oyu (8201 m) – October , 2003 ;

Broad Peak (8047 m) – Julay 22, 2006 – The 11 woman ascent;

Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Julay 18, 2007;

Dhaulagiri (8167 m) May 01, 2008 – first Polish woman

Manaslu (8156 M) October 5, 2008 – first Polish woman

Kangchenjunga (8586 m) May 18, 2009 – first Polish woman

Official site : - http://www.kingabaranowska.com/

* see : – Kinga Baranowska summited Dhaulagiri. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką na DHAULAGIRI! /Version english and polish/

- Kinga Baranowska summit Manaslu. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką na Manaslu. /Version english and polish/

-Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką, która zdobyła Kanczendzonge.

** – all my post, select category : – Kinga Baranowska

Kinga Baranowska – (ur. 1976) – pochodzi z Kaszub, mieszka w Warszawie.

Jedna z najlepszych himalaistek młodego pokolenia. Jest Członkiem Zarządu Klubu Wysokogórskiego Warszawa (od 2008 r.), należy do sportowego teamu Alpinusa (Alpinus Expedition Team). Od kilku lat związana zawodowo z branżą teleinformatyczną. W Klubie Wysokogórskim Trójmiasto ukończyła kurs skałkowy i tatrzański.

Wspinanie poza granicami Polski zaczęła od Alp m.in. Matterhornu. W 2002 roku wspinała się na Mt Kenia (Batian 5199 m), a także stanęła na wierzchołku Chan Tengri (7010 m) w górach Tien Shan.

Pierwsza wyprawa w Himalaje w 2003 roku zakończyła się sukcesem dzięki zdobyciu Cho Oyu (8201 m) – została tym samym 9 Polką w historii, której udało się wejść na wierzchołek ośmiotysięczny.

W 2004 roku brała udział w wyprawie na jeden z najtrudniejszych siedmiotysięczników świata – Pik Pobiedy (7439 m) w górach Tien Shan, trudne warunki atmosferyczne nie pozwoliły jej jednak na zdobycie wierzchołka.

W lipcu 2006 roku powróciła w góry wysokie z wyprawą Tryptyk Himalajski, tym razem w Karakorum, by stanąć na szczycie Broad Peak’a (8047 m) 22 lipca 2006 – jako 11 kobieta w historii.

Rok 2007 zaowocował zdobyciem Mount McKinley (6194 m) na Alasce, 11 czerwca zdobyła najwyższego szczytu Ameryki Północnej, podczas wyprawy aklimatyzacyjnej.

Rok 2007 to też wyprawy w Himalaje i Karakorum. W dniu 18 lipca 2007 jako czwarta Polka w historii stanęła na szczycie ośmiotysięcznika Nanga Parbat (8125 m), zdobywając szczyt słynną, prawie 4 km ścianą Diamir (jedyna kobieta na wyprawie, która wspinała się na Nangę w tym sezonie). Na Dhaulagiri (8167 m) dotarła do wys. 8076 m, jednakże z racji zbyt niebezpiecznych warunków musiała zrezygnować ze szczytu (patrz Dhaulagiri 8167 – bez szczytu, zabrakło naprawdę niewiele).

1 maja 2008 po długim i wyczerpującym ataku szczytowym, przeprowadzonym w towarzystwie śmietanki światowego himalaizmu (m.in. Valery Babanov, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner zobacz post – Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summited Dhaulagiri. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner zdobyła Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/, Edurne Pasaban, Ivan Vallejo), Kinga Baranowska (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warszawa) jako pierwsza Polka w historii stanęła na wierzchołku siódmego co do wysokości szczytu świata – Dhaulagiri (8167 m n.p.m.).

5 października Kinga Baranowska (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warszawa) stanęła, jako pierwsza Polka na szczycie Manaslu (8163 m) położonym w Nepalu.

Jak donosi sama Kinga:

Dziś o godzinie 10 czasu nepalskiego stanęłam na szczycie Manaslu. Resztę dnia schodziłam w dół zwijając obozy, na kolację byłam już w bazie. Czuję się bardzo zmęczona, ale szczęśliwa. Dziękuję wszystkim, którzy o mnie ciepło myśleli. Więcej napiszę już jutro, jak trochę odeśpię-:)

18 Maja 2009 Kinga Baranowska (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warszawa) stanęła, jako pierwsza Polka na szczycie Kangchenjunga 8586 m) położonym w Nepalu.

Jak donosi sama Kinga:

Jestem po. Na szczycie stanęłam późno, Góra niewyobrażalnie trudna i wymagająca, dla mnie najtrudniejsza ze wszystkich, na których do tej pory byłam. Jestem ekstremalnie zmęczona, straciłam tez głos od zimnego wiatru, ale tez szczęśliwa. Czeka mnie jeszcze trudne zejście do bazy z obozu IV. Górę tą dedykuje Wandzie Rutkiewicz. Więcej informacji jak zejdę do bazy.

Oto niektóre z jej licznych osiągnięć:

-Matterhorn (4478 m) – od strony włoskiej oraz wiele szczytów w Alpach, m.in. w masywie Monte Rosa -szczyty w górach Afryki (m.in. Kilimandżaro, Jabel Toubkal).
-Mont Kenia (Batian 5199 m) – ścianą pd.-wsch.
-Chan Tengri (7010 m) – od strony południowej
-Cho Oyu (8201 m) – debiut w Himalajach w wieku 27 lat
-Pik Pobiedy (7439 m) – organizator i uczestnik wyprawy
-Broad Peak (8047 m) – druga Polka na szczycie
-Mount McKinley (6194 m) – aklimatyzacyjnie; drogą normalną
-Nanga Parbat (8125 m) – ścianą Diamir
-Dhaulagiri (8167 m) – pierwsza Polka na szczycie
-Manaslu (8156 m) – pierwsza Polka na szczycie
-Kangchenjunga (8586 m) – pierwsza Polka na szczycie

* strona domowa himalaistki : – http://www.kingabaranowska.com/

** wszystkie wyprawy Kingi kliknij: – Kinga Baranowska

Zobacz też posty :

1. Kinga Baranowska summited Dhaulagiri 2008 – photo gallery.

2. Kinga Baranowska summited Dhaulagiri. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką na DHAULAGIRI! /Version english and polish/

3. Polish women team on Dhaulagiri – aktualne relacje z wyprawy.

4. Polish women team on Dhaulagiri – KINGA BARANOWSKA PO AKCJI RATUNKOWEJ NA DHAULAGIRI.

5. Polish women team on Dhaulagiri – Kinga and Kasia! /Version english and polish/

6. Kinga Baranowska wraca na Dhaulagiri.

7. Kinga Baranowska summit Manaslu. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką na Manaslu. /Version english and polish/

8. Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką, która zdobyła Kanczendzonge.

- oryginal post by : - http://himalman.wordpress.com/

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Climb Aconcagua - one of the Seven Summits list. /Version english and polish/

2009-07-05T06:39:00.002+01:00

Cerro Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas 6,962 metres (22,841 ft), and the highest mountain outside Asia. It is located in the Andes mountain range, in the Argentine province of Mendoza. The summit is located about 5 kilometres from San Juan Province and 15 kilometres from the international border with Chile. It lies 112 km (70 mi) west by north of the city of Mendoza. Aconcagua is the highest peak in both the Western and Southern Hemispheres. It is one of the Seven Summits.

Aconcagua is bounded by the Valle de las Vacas to the north and east and the Valle de los Horcones Inferior to the West and South. The mountain and its surroundings are part of the Aconcagua Provincial Park. The mountain has a number of glaciers. The most substantial are the north-eastern or Polish Glacier and the eastern or English Glacier.

The mountain was created by the subduction of the Nazca Plate beneath the South American plate during the geologically recent Andean orogeny; however, it is not a volcano.^[2] The origin of the name is contested, it is either from the Arauca Aconca-Hue, which refers to the Aconcagua River and means 'comes from the other side' or the Quechua Ackon Cahuak, meaning 'Sentinel of Stone'.

Aconcagua with Patagonicas – Trip Description

ACONCAGUA POLISH GLACIER EXPEDITION

Route Description.

We will continue to approach the Polish Glacier via the Guanacos Valley and traverse the mountain. If you are signing up for the Polish Glacier Route you need to have previous high altitude experience, and be very familiar with the use of ice axe, crampons, and belaying techniques. We are specialized in the Polish Glacier Route, having successfully guided it many times.

Aconcagua Polish Glacier

The line we choose will depend on conditions. If a lot of penitentes (snow pinnacles formed by direct sunlight) are encountered in the lower section of the glacier, we will start by climbing through the scree and rock on the right hand side.

Guanacos Valley

The steeper Polish Glacier Direct Route has been the choice route in recent years. Although steeper, it is safer and easier due to fewer icy and exposed traverses than on the old Polish Route. On this spectacular, steep snow and ice climb we will use several running belays.

Moving to High Camp 19,200

In steeper icy sections we will climb pitches instead of using running belays, belaying and regrouping at every anchor. A long day of climbing will take us to the Summit Ridge at 22,000' after the last steep pitch; a 55-60 degree narrow gully with the entire Glacier below at our feet. The final ridge is very long and gentle. After summiting, we descend quickly down the Normal Route to Independencia (20,790') where we descend to our High Camp at 19,200' to rest and spend the night. The next day we descend the Normal Route.

Polish Glacier Route Itinerary.

For a more detailed trip overview and itinerary , click here.
DAY 1: Group meets in Mendoza, Argentina. Equipment check and afternoon briefing at the hotel. For dinner we will have a chance to taste fine Argentinean cuisine and wine.
DAY 2: Drive West from Mendoza to Penitentes ski area at 8,500 . Our drive winds along the Rio Mendoza deep into the heart of the rugged Andes mountains where we begin our acclimatization in Penitentes. An afternoon hike is recommended, though optional.
DAY 3-4-5: Approach to Plaza Guanacos Base Camp. Mules carry our gear. This approximately 35 mile approach is essential to our acclimatization. Our first two days we follow the same route as Aventuras Patagonicas old Traverse and Polish Glacier Expeditions. The third day begins our new approach. We continue up the Vacas Valleyinstead of ascending the Relinchos Valley. The chances of seeing other expeditions on this new exciting route is remote. The chance of seeing numerous wildlife is much moreprobable. Spectacular glaciers contrasting with a desert backdrop make this approach both surreal and unforgettable. We have an excellent chance of seeing herds of guanacos. When Rodrigo did an exploratory trip to the region he encountered several hundred, counting 80 in one sighting alone! These magnificent mammals are well camouflaged, extremely elusive and a rare sight in the Aconcagua region.
DAY 6: Plaza Guanaco Base Camp at 13,000 . Rest and acclimatization day at Base Camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to make the summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp environment.
DAY 7: Carry a load to Camp I at approximately 15,200. The route goes up the narrow valley between the North side of Cerro Ameghino and Cerro San Francisco. Here we will be able to see Nieve Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by the direct sun. Return to Base Camp.
DAY 8: Leave Base Camp. Move to Camp I.
DAY 9: Carry a load to Camp II at 16,500 . Fantastic view of the Polish Glacier. We ascend scree slopes to a broad ridge crest where we will establish Camp II.
DAY 10: Move to Camp II.
DAY 11: Carry a load to Camp III, below the Polish Glacier at 17,800 .
DAY 12: Move to Camp III. depending on how group is doing.
DAY 13: Carry a load to High Camp, at 19,200 . We will establish this camp at the base of the Polish Glacier.
DAY 14: Move to High Camp.
DAY 15-17: Summit! Weather permitting. We allow several days for our Summit Day in case of poor weather.
DAY 18: Descend the Normal Route to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. This will be quite exciting since we will be descending a different side of the mountain.
DAY 19: Hike out the Horcones Valley, with its impressive views of Aconcagua s South Face. Spend the night in Penitentes.
DAY 20: Drive to Mendoza. Enjoy delicious team banquet! Next day fly home or continue traveling in South America.

Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.

For a more detailed : - http://patagonicas.com/index.html

.. more : 1 - http://www.andesmountain.cl/indexaco_ing.htm

2 - http://www.aconcagua-express.com/

3 - http://www.aconcaguaexpeditions.com/

*Previous story : - Seven Summits.

Aconcagua with Patagonia - Agencja górska.

Aconcagua - wyprawa z Ryszardem Pawłowskim.

Ryszard Pawłowski - światowej sławy himalaista, zaprasza na wyprawy by zdobywać wspaniałe szczyty na wszystkich kontynentach.

..jego sylwetka na : - Ryszard Pawłowski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

W najrozleglejszych górach świata, Andach, położony jest najwyższy szczyt obu Ameryk i zarazem najwyższy szczyt wznoszący się poza Azją - Aconcaqua.
Góra nazwana przez Inków Acconcahuac (co w ich języku oznacza "kamienny straznik") stanowi jeden z filarów "Korony Ziemi" co czyni ją szczególnie atrakcyjną dla wspinaczy.

Aconcaqua leży w argentyńskiej prowincji Mendoza, 15 km od granicy z Chile. Jest masywem pochodzenia wulkanicznego, swoja wysokością znacznie przewyższa sąsiednie wierzchołki, wydając się jeszcze wyższa niż jest w istocie.
Otaczające ja góry pokryte są jałowymi, stromymi zboczami , stanowiącymi pustynny teren z usuwającymi się spod nóg kamieniami. Roślinność jest tu bardzo uboga i praktycznie zanika na wysokości ok. 4000 m co potęguje wrażenie pustki i surowości i sprawia że rejon ten odwiedzany jest niemal wyłącznie przez wojskowych i wspinaczy.
Szczególne wrażenie robi pionowa, południowa ściana widziana z doliny Horcones - ścianą tą, wśród barier seraków i ruchomych skał, prowadzą najtrudniejsze drogi na wierzchołek.

Lista sprzętu do zabrania na wyprawę:

śpiwór puchowy
kurtka puchowa
botki puchowe
wór transportowy (80-100 L)
plecak (60-80 L)
plecak mały (20-30 L) - podręczny
buty plastikowe
buty trekkingowe
rękawice ciepłe (łapa wice)
rękawiczki polar albo wind stopper
rękawiczki cienkie (od słońca)
bluza z polara (lub wind stopper)
spodnie z polara
bluza przeciwwiatrowa
spodnie przeciwwiatrowe
termos
butelka na napoje
raki
kijki narciarskie
czapka ciepła
czapka przeciwsłoneczna z daszkiem i osłoną na kark
okulary przeciwsłoneczne (lodowcowe)
ochraniacze przeciwśniegowe
bielizna przeciwpotliwa (koszulki-2 szt., kalesony 2-szt.)
koszulki bawełniane
gogle narciarskie
termorest lub karrimat - 2 szt.
krem oraz pomadka z filtrem UV
przybory kuchenne osobiste (kubek, łyżka, miska)
czołówka i zapasowe baterie
aparat fotograficzny
ulubiona maskotka

Pamiętaj, nawet najlepszy sprzęt nie zapewni Ci wejścia na szczyt
bez przygotowania kondycyjnego i nastawienia psychicznego!

Kalendarium.

1897 - szwajcarski przewodnik M. Zurbriggen, członek brytyjskiej ekspedycji pod kierownictwem E. Fitzgeralda, zdobywa szczyt 14 stycznia wchodząc od strony zachodniej, drogą uznawaną dzisiaj za klasyczną
1934 - czworka polskich wspinaczy: K. Narkiewicz-Jodko, S. Daszyński, W. Ostrowski i S. Osiecki dokonują pierwszego wejscia od strony wschodniej przez lodowiec, zwany odtąd Lodowcem Polaków
1954 - uczestnicy francuskiej wyprawy G.Poulet, R.Paragot, E.Denis, P. Lasueur, L. Bernardini i A.Dagory jako pierwsi pokonują trudny centralny filar na scianie południowej osiagając wierzchołek 28 lutego
1974 - austriacko-włoska wyprawa Reinholda Messnera dokonuje prostowania w górnym odcinku drogi francuskiej z 1954. Siedemnaście lat póżniej, ta samą drogę pokonuje samotnie Austriak T. Bubendorfer
1982 - czterej Słoweńcy Z. Gantar, I. Rejc oraz bracia Pavel i Peter Podgornik po dziewięciodniowej wspinaczce na południowej ścianie osiągają południowy wierzchołek góry. Obecnie droga ta, nazwana "słoweńską", uznawana jest za najtrudniejszą na całej górze.

Krótka informacja o wyprawie:
Celem wyprawy jest wejście na szczyt Aconcaqua - najwyższy szczyt obu Ameryk.
Wybieramy jeden z dwóch klasycznych wariantów osiągnięcia wierzchołka tzn. od północnego wschodu, rozpoczynając z miejscowości Punta del Inca. Po trzech dniach marszu przez doliny Vacas i Relinchos docieramy do bazy Plaza Argentina, ulokowanej na wysokości 4200 m. Do tego miejsca bagaż transportowany jest na grzbietach mułów; powyżej bazy cały niezbędny sprzęt transportują uczestnicy, przy okazji zdobywając aklimatyzację i kondycję.

Przez następne parę dni zakładamy kolejne obozy: obóz I na wysokości ok. 5300 m oraz obóz II na wysokości ok. 5950 m. Przy dobrych warunkach pogodowych wejście na szczyt z obozu II zajmuje ok. 8-10 godzin, czas wejścia uzależniony jest przede wszystkim od (oprócz pogody) samopoczucia uczestników.

Program akcji górskiej jest tak ułożony, aby w razie nieudanego wejścia na szczyt np. ze względu na złą pogodę lub gorsze samopoczucie, możliwe było ponowienie ataku.

Do bazy wracamy tą samą trasą, likwidując po drodze kolejne obozy.
Warunki pogodowe jakie napotkamy podczas wyprawy są ekstremalne i skrajnie różne - od zenitalnego słońca na początku podejścia do ujemnych temperatur, lodu, sniegu i silnych wiatrów w wyższych partiach góry.
Samo wejście na Aconcaque nie stwarza większych trudności technicznych, pamiętać jednak należy, że znaczna wysokość (prawie 7000 m) oraz często występujące trudne warunki pogodowe sprawiają, że wejście na wierzchołek jest zawsze poważnym przedsięwzięciem.

*Previous story : - Seven Summits.

- oryginal post by : - http://himalman.wordpress.com/

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Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory and Irvine.

2009-07-03T14:03:00.006+01:00

MY Favorite book ....

Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory and Irvine.
by Jochen Hemmleb, Larry A Johnson, Eric R Simonson

This is the dramatic inside story of the 1999 expedition to find the bodies and solve the enigma of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, who tragically and mysteriously died on Everest on 8th June 1924, in an attempt to reach the peak. What happened to Mallory and Irving the day they set out on their summit bid only to disappear without any evidence of their fate or possible achievement? Were these two brave pioneers the first to reach the summit 29 years before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay? How did they perish and where? What part of the mystery remains to be solved? Set against the backdrop of the 1924 expedition and historical clues from subsequent expeditions, "Ghosts of Everest" weaves a story from early preparations to the day-to-day, blow-by-blow events of both expeditions to create an adventure narrative that captures the voices and the action as it unfolds on the mountain.

* Previous story : - Books.

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My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks - By Jerzy Kukuczka.

2009-07-03T13:15:00.011+01:00

MY Favorite book .....

My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks.
By Jerzy Kukuczka, translated by Andrew Wielochowski
August 1992 edition, Mountaineers Books. Hardcover, 189 p.

My Vertical World is Jerzy Kukuczka's autobiography, translated from his native Polish into English. Even translated, the book reads like some heroic Norse saga with Jerzy striding through it like a doomed Odin.

In the beginning of the book, Reinhold Messner says of Jerzy, "you are not second, you are great". Great praise indeed for the second person, after Messner, to wear the 'Crown of the Himalaya', a title for those who have climbed to the top of all the fourteen 8000 meter peaks in the world, all in the Himalaya. Jerzy did them all and that too by either blazing new routes or in the winter, and always without supplemental oxygen.

The book is divided into chapters, the first, typical of Jerzy, it seems, describing his early days in Poland in a very brief manner. Then the next fourteen chapters describe his successful summit ascents to each of the 8000 meter peaks, from Lhotse, his first to Shish Pangma, his last.

The press played up the artificial race between him and Messner to be the first to do the 8000 m peaks. Jerzy is always humble and regards Messner as his superior. He is no jock mountaineer in search of glory, nor does he go into complex reasons that make him want to climb. He just seems to love to climb the high peaks, the Himalayas more than another.

Jerzy talks about being a young man desiring to travel to the far away Himalaya to climb. He describes the incredible privation and hardship that he had to undergo to scrounge money and food in the days of the Solidarity movement in Poland where he was in danger of being considered a food hoarder. However, all he was doing was salting away food for his next Himalayan trip. He talks about how he and his climbing friends would raise the precious zoltys by offering to paint rusting chimneys of factories and saving on the cost of scaffolding by using climbing ropes instead.

To me, the most incredible climbing done by Jerzy is his winter climb of Dhaulagiri. Here he describes his solo descent into a village in an unknown valley with feet rotting away from infection and frostbite. The villagers simply would not believe his story because no one had ever been in that valley before. Then without much rest, he met up with the Cho Oyu expedition and blazed a first winter ascent of Cho Oyu via the unclimbed South East Pillar.

A summary, in his own words, 'There is no answer in this book to the endless questions about the point of expeditions to the Himalayan giants.
I never found a need to explain this. I went to the mountains and climbed them. That is all.

*Reviewed by Arun Mahajan - http://peakclimbing.org/

** Previous story : - Books.

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Climb Mt. Vinson - highest peak in Antarctica.

2009-07-03T09:22:00.004+01:00

Climb Mt. Vinson with Berg Adventures – Trip Description

Explore the Ellsworth Mountains of Antarctica.

This is the big one. A trip to the interior of Antarctica with Berg Adventures is a lifetime adventure for any explorer. We all seek adventure and beauty to enrich our lives. Climber on VinsionThe unspeakable grandness and sublime space of Antarctica is unmatched and will leave you forever with the satisfaction of knowing that you have at least glimpsed the pure, empty soul of our planet.

Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, was first climbed in 1966 by Americans John Evans, Barry Corbet, Pete Schoening and William Long. In 1983 Dick Bass and Frank Wells climbed Mt. Vinson during their famous Seven Summits quest. Their pilot was a skilled young British aviator named Giles Kershaw. In 1984 and 1985 Kershaw returned to Antarctica with Canadian climbers Martyn Williams and Pat Morrow. Their team of 8, including Kershaw himself reached the summit of Vinson on November 19th.

It was during the 80’s that Giles Kershaw, British glaciologists Charles Swithinbank and Mike Maxwell identified the “blue ice runway” at Patriot Hills, the natural feature that spawned the growth of an Antarctic Base. When we leave Punta Arenas Chile on our flight across the Drake Passage for Antarctica, the Blue Ice Runway and Patriot Hills will be our goal. After a brief taste of life in a “real” Antarctic Base, we will venture out in smaller ski-equipped aircraft for the Ellsworth Mountains.

Climbing Mt. Vinson with Berg Adventures involves establishing three camps above our base camp at 8,000 ft on the Branscomb Glacier. Climbing is moderate snow climbing, with slope angles up to 45 degrees. Temperatures are cold, below 0 degrees F for the entire trip. But without the temperature fluctuations that one experiences in other glacier ranges of the world dressing for these temperatures and moving in them is surprisingly easy. In direct sunlight you can be quite warm. Although it is light for 24 hours in the austral polar regions at this time of year, the sun will go behind ridges in the Ellsworth Mountains for a few hours each day. These are hours that we plan to be snug in our tents, resting for the next day’s climb. Antarctica is extremely dry. We do not use skis or snowshoes for travel between camps on Vinson. Crampons are worn on the moderately steep slopes of the upper mountain.
Internet Broadcast.

Your adventure in Antarctica will be cybercast to the Internet via satellite phone. Daily dispatches will be posted on the Web at BergAdventures.com. This will be a great way for your group to share stories and photographs of your adventures while “on the scene” during the climb. In the past, our dispatches have been used by family, friends and supporters to track the progress of our groups, by classrooms to learn about the wild places we visit, and by local newspapers to report stories of interest.

View our previous Mt. Vinson expedition dispatches.
Guides.

Past BAI Vinson climbs have been led by Wally Berg or Dave Hahn. Wally has guided three ascents of Mt. Vinson in previous years and was leader of the Omega Embree Glacier Expedition in 2000. This expedition explored the unvisited reaches of the upper Embree Glacier in the Ellsworth Mountains and Wally established a new route on the unclimbed west side of Mt. Bentley. Dave Hahn is the world’s premier Antarctica mountaineering guide. He has guided 23 ascents to the summit of Mt. Vinson, yet his love for the beauty and challenge of the mountain has not diminished.
Qualifications.

To climb Vinson you need to be in excellent physical condition. This is a glacier climb of easy to moderate difficulty. You should have some experience walking with an ice axe, using crampons and doing self-arrest. Most of the terrain is low angle, but summit day is long and has one 50 degree slope. Antarctica is extreme, but it is a surprisingly pleasant place to camp and live during the light weeks of the high Austral summer when we are there. Because temperature fluctuations are not great, it is easy to dress for the cold, sunny days. You need to have winter camping experience before you go in order to know how to manage your gear and body temperature. Selection of the proper equipment for climbing and camping in Antarctica is imperative. The continent is an uncompromising, vast and wonderful place.

* more : - http://www.bergadventures.com/

**Previous story : - Seven Summits.

- oryginal post by : - http://himalman.wordpress.com/

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Vasque M-Finity boots bring you back home. /Version english and polish/

2009-07-01T13:30:00.002+01:00

Vasque M-Finity boots bring you back home.

Author of post : Angela Hawse.

For me, a good mountain boot not only has to climb well, it has to get me to the climb. I’m not carrying a boot on my back, I’m going to wear it all day, there and back. I checked out the Vasque M-Finity on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton during the early part of last summer.

My clients, sporting their sticky rubber approach shoes, looked on with a bit of anxiety as I laced up my flashy mountain boots at the trailhead.

“Just testing,” I assured them, “You’ll be fine.”

But I wondered if I’d “be fine” on the 5,000-foot hump up to the lower saddle and the 7,000-foot descent back down to the car tomorrow in the beasts. No doubt, the boots were a tad overkill for the summer hike, but a test drive is a test drive.

Aside from being too warm, the boots were actually pretty comfortable on the approach. The fun began the next morning on the Owen Spalding route. Conditions ranged from patches of snow, to wet and icy rock. I was super psyched on the added security the M-Finity’s provided as I safeguarded my clients, who were less than sure of their footing, on the tricky bits. Add a little snow and ice and moderate becomes desperate to the uninitiated.

I loved climbing in a good quality pair of light, rigid boots and when we got to the business on OS, I was whistling Dixie. The Vibram rubber sole and carbon-fiber shank were stiff and plenty sticky on little edges and the odd smear. If Vasque puts Stealth rubber on these, like they do on other products, it would no doubt climb even better.

Surprisingly enough, I didn’t suffer too much on the 7,000-foot descent. I even wore them again the next trip, trailhead to trailhead. Same results.

Although a little heavy and warm for a summer mountaineering boot, these kickers are going to be secret weapons for bigger alpine climbs. I like a boot that is stiff and edges well. This one does. I also like a boot with plenty of rand, for extra grip in wide cracks, and this one certainly has full coverage. The toe box is plenty roomy to wiggle my toes, which I like as long as I can crank the laces tight enough to keep the boot snug. Excels here too.

The M-Finity performed well with a light strap-on crampon and I can’t wait to step into some technical spikes when the ice forms up. If you are on the hunt for a warm, stiff, technical boot that is light, built to last and performs well on both rock and ice, you’ll dig this one.

* Author of post : Angela Hawse.
Posted on: – http://www.alpinist.com/

** see – http://www.vasque.com/

** Previous story : – Equipment.

Buty Vasque M-Finity – Alpinistyczne damskie.

But stworzony specjalnie do wspinaczki lodowej i mikstowej oraz szybkich wejść w stylu alpejskim. Cholewka z elementami Kevlaru, wodoodporna/oddychająca wyściółka, ocieplina Thinsulate oraz baza podeszwy wykonana z włókien węglowych – wszystko to czyni ten model zwinnym oraz ciepłym. System szybkiego sznurowania pozwala na idealne dopasowanie buta do kształtu stopy. Doskonały wybór na twój następny wypad w świat pionowego lodu.

Dane techniczne:

Cholewka: skóra Split
Cholewka: tkanina Kevlar/Nylon, tkanina Tec Tuff
Warstwa górna podeszwy: włókno węglowe
Środkowa warstwa podeszwy: EVA
Bieżnik: Vibram Kommandos Outsole
Wyściółka: Drilex
Wkładka: Ocieplana
Inne: podwójny język Gemini; gumowy rant chroniący palce; miękkie zakończenie cholewki, zaczepy na raki, wodoodporne

Waga: 1590 g

Rozmiary: 6-12, 13, 14

* Źródło : – http://www.vasque.pl/buty/

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Everest Trek 2009 - new video.

2009-06-30T08:25:00.003+01:00

I would like to invite you to watch one of movie of Everest collection…
Everest Trek 2009 - new video by Chris Marquardt.

A week in Kathmandu and two weeks of trekking to Mt. Everest Base Camp. Not only the worlds highest photo workshop, but a truly life-changing event for all the participants. Get a first taste of what to expect over the next months.

* Source : – http://www.youtube.com/

** Previous story : - VIDEOS.

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International Alliance for Mountain Film.

2009-06-29T08:04:00.003+01:00

In February of 2000, a group of people gathered in the vaulted rooms of the Museo della Montagna in Torino, Italy to forge an alliance committed to the future of mountain film.

Not surprisingly, the individuals present were from the some of the most important mountain film festivals in the world, along with the Museo della Montagna staff. Film Festivals in Autrans, France; Banff, Canada; Cervinia, Italy; Graz, Austria; Lugano, Switzerland; Les Diablerets, Switzerland; Torello, Spain; and Trento, Italy were present at that first gathering, becoming the founding members of the alliance.

The challenge was to create an association that not only emphasized mountain film issues common to all festivals, but that also recognized and promoted the festivals’ unique qualities. After many hours of multi-lingual discussion, a number of initiatives were articulated for the group to focus on. A name was chosen – The International Alliance for Mountain Film, and the whole exercise was concluded with a wonderful Italian dinner, consumed with gusto!

Several months later, and the venue has moved a few hundred kilometres east – to the ancient city of Trento in the Italian Dolomites. Site of the oldest mountain film festival in the world, the momentum is building as a slightly extended group gathers for the second meeting of the Alliance and of course to attend the Trento festival. The new festivals at the table include Dundee, Scotland; Kendal, England; Poprad, Slovakia; Telluride, U.S.A. and Teplice in the Czech Republic. Apart from the unveiling of a new logo, the Alliance determines that one of its first priorities is to inform audiences and filmmakers about the global film festival opportunities. As well, information is shared on films, programming and technology, promotion and ticketing and funding challenges.

An agreement emerges to take every opportunity to cross-promote mountain film festivals around the world and to meet twice a year at member festival events.

For more information, click on : – http://www.mountainfilmalliance.org/

Mountain Film Festivals :

** Previous story : - Mountain festival

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Man Against Mount Everest : Swiss expedition 1952 - video.

2009-06-28T09:35:00.005+01:00

I would like to invite you to watch one of movie of Everest collection…
Man Against Mount Everest - travel film archive.

An attempt to climb Mt Everest from the south in 1952 by a Swiss team. Footage from this subject is available for licensing from www.globalimageworks.com

* Source : – http://www.youtube.com/

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Mountaineering Boots – Vasque Ice 9000.

2009-06-28T07:57:00.002+01:00

Author of post : Julia Niles

I put these boots to the test on Denali. They sailed me up and down the mountain attached to snowshoes, skis and crampons. I wore them nonstop for 21 days (when I wasn’t sleeping or lucky enough to be in my down booties) and never got a single blister. Nothing broke off despite the abuse I gave them: kicking blocks of ice while building walls, playing glacier Frisbee and lacing as tight as possible at times.

My feet never got unusually cold, but I used over-boots above 17,000 feet. A problem with this blend between a hardshell and a softshell is that you cannot leave the shell outside overnight. We had three guides in a tent without much extra space. If left outside, the outer shell would freeze or fill up with snow which was not good because the inner booties are too thin to keep your foot insulated from the outer boot. After a while I developed a system of keeping them between the two pads under my feet, but this might be uncomfortable for some people. The other issue with this system is that the inner bootie is molded and not designed at all for wearing without the outer shell. I like having the ability to wear just the inner shell if just getting out of the tent to pee or some other short trip. Overall, however, the Ice 9000’s comfort, warmth and lightweight design would compel me to use these boots again on Denali or elsewhere.

* Author of post : Julia Niles
Posted on: – http://www.alpinist.com/

** see – http://www.vasque.com/

** Previous story : - Equipment.

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International Mountain Guides - one of the best mountaineering agency.

2009-06-28T07:41:00.002+01:00

I Recommend …

International Mountain Guides - http://www.mountainguides.com/index.shtml

About International Mountain Guides :

International Mountain Guides directors Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Eric Simonson and Paul Baugher organize and lead climbing, trekking and mountaineering expeditions around the world, from the classic climbs of the Alps and Andes to the 8,000m peaks of the Himalayas. We continue to be one of the most respected and active guiding companies in the world. Since 1986 we have conducted hundreds of expeditions to destinations around the globe, and the fact that most of our customers climb with us again and again tells us we’re doing things right!

Everest South Side Summit Climb with International Mountain Guides.

IMG’s Everest programs are recognized worldwide as simply outstanding, with a reputation for our highly professional staff of leaders, climbers and Sherpas, first-rate logistics and our resulting safety and success record on the mountain. Since 1991 we have conducted over forty 8000-meter expeditions and have seen over 300 climbers reach the summit of these peaks, including 179 on Everest.

For 2009 we are proud to announce an exciting array of Everest options with the IMG All-Stars, under the direction of legendary climber and expedition leader Eric Simonson. We offer something for everyone… from treks to summit climbs, and we have designed our programs to be truly unique and special.

.. more : - http://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south.shtml

** Previous story : - Guides

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Climbing.com's Guide Zone.

2009-06-28T07:33:00.002+01:00

Climbing Magazine’s Guide Zone

	Adventure Consultants and THE ENVIRONMENT As people who live very close to the natural world we are genuinely proactive in minimizing our impacts by educating our staff and guests in appropriate techniques to preserve the environment. With our roots in the New Zealand outdoors we have always been conscious of the need to ‘leave only footprints’ and we apply this philosophy to every venture we embark upon. Be it a weekend in the hills or a major expedition, we are particular about leaving the area cleaner than we found it.Adventure Consultants was the first expedition company to operate clean-up expeditions to Mt Everest and we were removing abandoned oxygen bottles from Mt Everest before well-funded ‘clean up’ expeditions became fashionable. In addition to our existing high standards, we practice ‘Leave no Trace’ ™ principles to minimize our environmental footprint. www.adventureconsultants.co.nz
	American Alpine InstituteThe American Alpine Institute was founded in 1975 and since then has been dedicated to helping climbers raise their skills, protect the environments in which they climb, develop good judgment, and safely gain access to the great mountains of the world. Though the Institute is especially well known for its advanced training and expeditions, its international reputation is based on its dedication to teaching (at all skill levels from beginners’ to masters’ levels), its high level of customer service, the outstanding skills of its staff, and its public service in the areas of environmental protection and public lands policy. www.aai.cc
	“7 Summits Club” is the Alpine Club for those wishing to climb all Seven Summits. We have already carried out several successful expeditions during the year 2003-2006: 16 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized Elbrus 5642m expeditions 4 out of them in winter. 135 members successfully reached the Top of Elbrus. 14 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized Kilimanjaro 5895m expeditions. 105 members successfully reached the Top of Kilimanjaro 2 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized unguided McKinley 6194 expeditions. 22 members successfully reached the Top of McKinley 5 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized Aconcagua 6960 expeditions. 41 members successfully reached the Top of Aconcagua 3 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized Everest 8848m expeditions. 31 members successfully reached the Top of Everest In 2004 and “7 Summits Club” organized Kosciuszko 2228m expedition. 14 members successfully reached the Top of Kosciuszko 13 members of our expedion in the season 2005/2006 successfully climbed Vinson Massif 4897m 7 members of “7 Summits Club”out of them finished “7 Summits” project – climbed all highest mountains on all continents. 7summitsclub.com
	Talkeetna Air Taxi Talkeetna Air Taxi (TAT) specializes in glacier landings and air transport to various peaks in the Alaska Range for climbers and back-country skiers. Climbers are our primary concern and focus. Paul Roderick (owner), is a climber with experience on Denali and other peaks in the area. He offers first hand knowledge of route information, keeps an eye on current conditions and climbers, and adds insight into what it takes to climb in Alaska. We feel that our climbing services go beyond what you might expect, since we are climbers, back country skiers and outdoor enthusiasts just like you. Paul Roderick, the owner, is the only climber/glacier pilot in Talkeetna and knows what it takes to climb in Alaska. The adventure possibilities in this area are endless, and we would be happy to give you some ideas and/or help you plan your excursion. www.talkeetnaair.com (live web cam) (907)733-2218 (800)533-2219 Click here for a photo gallery by Paul Roderick — The Mountains of Alaska by Air
	Mountain Professionals In a market where companies are offering non-guided basement prices and delivering the equivalent in quality and safety, Mountain Professionals offers mid-range prices with high-end program delivery. We offer professional guides, the highest quality gear, the smoothest logistical delivery and we have no hidden fees. As a small high quality owner operated company, we offer personalized, small group programs in climbing, trekking and adventure travel. Our commitment to quality and safety, our high end delivery and our competitive pricing makes us not only competitive but a down right better deal than the more expensive company’s…check it out! www.mtnprofessionals.com
	Alpenglow Expeditions Alpenglow Expeditions was founded by Adrian Ballinger in 2004 after he worked for nearly a decade as head guide and director of one of the largest international guide services in the USA. Alpenglow Expeditions was created to combine our guides’ passion for climbing big mountains with their desire to teach others. We focus on high altitude expeditions, technical rock and ice climbing, and ski mountaineering on five continents. Our expeditions challenge climbers to become more efficient and competent in the mountains. Every one of these expeditions is run as a partnership between an AMGA certified guide and the team members, ensuring maximum learning, enjoyment and safety. www.alpenglowexpeditions.com
	Alpine Endeavors Alpine Endeavors operates year-round for rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering. We also offer specialty courses to help round out your outdoors skills in fly-fishing, canoeing, wilderness medicine, and Leave No Trace. Alpine Endeavors will provide experienced guides who are concerned with making your outing as safe as possible. We regularly participate in a variety of different climbing sub-specialties including rock climbing, ice climbing, aid climbing, mountaineering, and extended winter outings. Alpine Endeavors has the highest qualifications for guiding. We are Accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association, our senior guides are certified by the American Mountain Guides Association; trained in first aid, either as Wilderness First Responders or as Wilderness Emergency Medical Technicians; and Licensed to Guide in New York State for Rock, Ice, Camping, Canoeing, Hiking, and/or Fishing. www.alpineendeavors.com
	Chockstone Climbing Guides Chockstone Climbing Guides offers the widest range of climbing services available at Smith Rock State Park. We are a guide owned and guide managed American Mountain Guides Association Accredited Guide Service. Our staff provides personal, professional and customized rock climbing instruction and guiding services for all ages and abilities. From the first time rock climber to those breaking into advanced rock climbing skills or professional instructor training, Chockstone Guides provide the highest quality service for their clients. We maintain low client/guide ratios to maximize the attention that each individual deserves. Our rock-climbing instructors and guides hold personal certification or training through the AMGA and all have wilderness medical training and certification. As teachers, our guides are committed professionals. Through our instructional expertise, dedication to your safety and enthusiasm for climbing, Chockstone Climbing Guides can help you reach new heights. www.chockstoneclimbing.com
	International Mountain Climbing School The winter season of 2008/2009 marks the thirty-fifth year that IME and IMCS have offered comprehensive climbing instruction and retail services for climbers from New England and around the country. Our climbing programs are open to people of “All ages, All abilities, All the time”. Our mission is to provide every climber with a safe, enjoyable and worthwhile climbing experience. Our long-term goal is to run a friendly, personal guide service that you will return to year after year. It’s a job and a passion that allows us to share the excitement of climbing and the mountain environment with you. Along the way we will help you build skills and gain experiences that will make you a better climber and mountaineer. www.ime-usa.com
	San Juan Mountain Guides San Juan Mountain Guides is dedicated to offering professional instruction and guiding that will contribute to a lifetime of safe and successful climbing. Our guides not only help you get to the top of your next big climb, they also share their methods and decision making processes so you can benefit from their years of experience. During our courses and climbs, we also seek to build and maintain friendships, and we pride ourselves on securing partnerships that last for many years. This educational approach and supportive atmosphere is the foundation of all our programs. Our school is based in Ouray, Colorado located in the heart of the San Juan Mountains. We offer both open registration courses and custom programs designed to fit individual goals. Custom programs allow us the flexibility to structure the curriculum to meet each person or self-organized group’s specific needs and objectives. Either way, your outdoor experience will be not only instructional, but also personalized and fun. www.ourayclimbing.com
	Summit Climb Our climbing expeditions maximize many years of accumulated wisdom leading trips to the highest mountains on the planet, a strong record of reaching the top of 8000ers: Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Shishapangma and many other high altitude summits in all safety, along with an intimate knowledge of the officials who regulate the permit system. We have conducted countless 8000, 7000 and 6000 metre peak expeditions, and consider ourselves specialists in identifying, organizing expeditions to, and getting teams safely to the summit and back down. We have been running expeditions for over 17 years and we know all of the bureaucratic officials, liaison officers, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs personally in the countries we visit. We must also give credit to our polite and highly experienced, hard-working climbing sherpas, high altitude guides, cooking, and office staff. The goal of SummitClimb is to lead expeditions stressing 3 goals in the following order: Safety at all times Having fun, being part of a good team, making new friends Success in reaching the summit and descending safely www.summitclimb.com
	Southwest Adventure Guides Southwest Adventure Guides LLC (formerly Southwest Adventures) has been conducting domestic and international trips and courses since 1989. We are not a travel agent. We guide our own trips with our own staff and support networks. Our courses and trips run throughout the year. In the spring and summer months we conduct rock climbing, mountaineering and mountain biking trips and courses in Southwest Colorado and Southeast Utah, as well as high altitude mountaineering expeditions and courses in Peru, Bolivia, and Alaska. In the winter months we conduct avalanche courses, backcountry skiing, ice climbing and winter mountaineering trips in Southwest Colorado, as well as international high altitude climbing and trekking expeditions in Mexico, Ecuador, and Argentina. All of our guides undergo extensive training and have many years experience in the discipline in which they work. Additionally, all of our Senior Guides are either American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Certified or Trained. www.mtnguide.net

Find more guides with Climbing Magazine’s CLASSIFIEDS – Guides and Travel Section HERE

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Contact Kevin Riley

Ph: 212-691-2921 Ext. 107
kevin.riley@skrammedia.com

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Nepali mountaineers to lead their own destiny: Sherpa climbers First Ever Meet held on 21 June in Kathmandu.

2009-06-27T11:30:00.001+01:00

Jun 26, 2009
(MountEverest.net/Reported by Ang Karma Sherpa) A historic meet of Sherpa climbers was convened at the National Academy Hall in Kathmandu on 21 June 2009 to address the woes and difficulties of Nepali climbers and current mountaineering related issues in Nepal.

This first ever meet of Nepali climbers in the history of Nepali mountaineering was organized by the task force committee formed by the government to steer the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).

600 Nepali climbers

The meet was attended by 34 regional mountaineers clubs, mountaineering related association/agencies and approximately 600 Nepali climbers and 100 expedition operator representatives.

Over 30 speakers, majority of them comprised of Nepali climbers, spoke on various issues relating to the state of Nepali climbers, Himalayan environment and special provisions to be incorporated in the drafting of the new constitution to address concern of Nepali mountaineers.

“Nepali mountaineers have come of age to lead their own destiny”

In his welcome address, Nima Nuru Sherpa, member of the NMA task force committee & convener of the Meet highlighted the special role and contribution of Nepali climbers towards the development mountaineering activities in particular and tourism in general in Nepal.

He said, “We Sherpas of younger generation are indebted to our forefathers for their hard work and integrity for the glory they brought in the community and nationwide.”

He added, “Mountaineering trends and scenes have changed and our generation needs to be prepared to accept new challenges both on the mountains and policy making level to give new direction to mountaineering activities for the benefit of all. I believe Nepali mountaineers have come of age to lead their own destiny and this meet is to set the first milestone in this regard.”

Pemba Gyalje Sherpa, “does the state know the plight of Nepali climbers when they get old?”

Recipient of National Geographic award of “Adventurer of Year in Heroism in 2008″ the savior in the storm on K2, Pemba Gyalje Sherpa – co-convener of the meet – highlighted problems of the Sherpas in the following words, “Although small in numbers we have made a huge contribution to bring glory to the nation. It is time the Nepali state recognized the contribution made by us and this can be done by making special provision in the drafting of the new constitution.”

He added, “Does the state know the plight of Nepali climbers when they get old and can work for expeditions no more? Many of them have to walk bare feet, their children receive no quality education and when they get seriously injured in the mountains they get no prompt rescue and good treatment afterwards.”

Highlighting the issue further he added, “when they become old or permanently injured from accidents they are left to die on their own – not to mention their widows and children who have no one to support them…”

“Even renowned Nepali climbers are fleeing the country for employment elsewhere because of the state’s neglect. This is going to cost Nepal heavily in the long run, as it will create a void of experienced Nepali mountaineers for future expeditions.”

Pemba also expressed his concern that such a situation is emerging because the Nepal Mountaineering Association, founded to safe-guard the interest and welfare of Nepali mountaineers, has long been run by non-mountaineers.

Mountaineering related agencies to be restructured; guides to obtain international certificates

Nawang Nima Sherpa, member of Nepali Mountaineers’ Welfare & Rights Committee spoke about the need of restructuring mountaineering related agencies in order to recognize and evaluate full potentialities of Nepali climbers in tune with the changing times.

He also mentioned the government and concerned parties have neglected important issues relating to mountaineering and Nepali climbers such as:

- proper regulations to direct mountaineers conduct during expeditions,
- timely reform in the role of liaison officers,
- adequate insurance,
- prompt rescue and evacuation of Nepali climbers during accidents,
- pension and welfare of retired Nepali climbers.

In view of the changing mountaineering trends and scenario in the Himalaya mountains, he also spoke about further upgrading mountaineering skills of Nepali climbers and need for mountaineering schools to produce professional Nepali mountain guides with international diplomas.

Lhakpa, “foreign climbers talk more about their yaks than their Sherpas” – Junila, “parts of royalty fees should cover help to injured Sherpas and their relatives”

Lhakpa Phuti Sherpa, president of Nepal Women Mountaineering Association spoke about the decimation practiced by foreign climbers and mountaineering associations. Quoting from her experience of attending a mountain film festival in Switzerland, she said, “Foreign climbers talk tirelessly about our yaks but hardly mention a word about their expedition Sherpas – who is going to speak about this double standard?”

Usha Bista, Everest summiteer and member of the 2008 Nepal Women expedition to Everest said, “handing out certificates and medals to mountaineers is no longer enough; has the Nepali government done anything for Dharma Raj Rai, who helped Nepali climber and oldest Everest summiteer Min Bahadur Sherchan, 77, to reach Everest summit and lost fingers on both hands in the process?”

Junila Subba, another woman Everest summiteer from the same expedition spoke about the need of inclusion of Sherpa climbers in the policy making body of the government and launch welfare programs to support climbers and their family in such need from the money raised from expedition royalty fees.

Rescue resources, social security, climate change

President of TAAN, Jyoti Adhikari urged the government to make arrangement for education and health and special privileges in transportation and employment for Nepali mountaineers and their families. He also requested the government to take immediate initiatives in developing an effective mechanism for the rescue of mountaineers, both foreigners and Nepali, in case of accidents and selection of liaison officers from Nepali climbers. He demanded social security for climbers and their family after they retire.

Parliamentarian and Constituent Assembly members Ms. Shanta Chaudari and Pasang Sherpa pledged their support to have the interest and rights of Nepali mountaineers addressed in the drafting of new constitution.

They also spoke about the need to save Himalaya from climate change and revenues from mountaineering ploughed back for the betterment of mountain people.

Policies are enough; implementation is what matters

Former Secretary of Nepali Tourism Ministry Dipendra Purush Dhakal said, “Pressuring the government to make policies to address the woes and difficulties of Nepali climbers is a work of a special nature. Drafting policies and regulations alone is not enough; what is important is the implementation and execution part.”

Mr. Dhakal will help prepare a work paper on the meet to present to the government and other concerned agencies.

Ranjan Krishna Aryal, concluded the Meet with the following remarks: “I believe the issues raised in this Meet will affect the government to amend the current mountaineering rules and regulation for the overall benefit of mountaineering activities in our country. I as a legal person in the Ministry of Tourism will offer my best support in this regard.”

Ranjan Krishna Aryal, joint secretary at the Nepali’s tourism ministry and the convener of NMA task force chaired the meet with veteran Sherpa Ang Rita gracing the meet as the guest of honor.

Other prominent invitees included former secretary at the Ministry of Tourism Dipendra Purush Dhakla; parliamentarian and constituent assembly members Pasang Sherpa and Ms. Shanta Chaudary; former NMA president Tek Chandra Pokharel; Trekking Agent’s Association Nepal (TAAN) president Jyoti Adhikari and first Nepali teenager Everest summiteer Shambu Tamang.

Citing complaints of monopoly and irregularities from Nepali mountaineers and mountaineering professionals, last year, Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism directed the last elected committee of NMA to resign en masse and consequently a 5 member task force committee was formed in replacement.

However in defiance to the formation of task force by the government and in a rushed election a new NMA executive committee was elected. This committee has so far failed to receive approval from the Ministry of Tourism, hence forced to work in ‘exile’.

The Ministry of Tourism is the co-coordinating agency of NMA for government related matters. An attempt by the task force, with support from the majority of Nepali climbers, to elect a new executive committee is on hold due to legal/political wrangling.

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Inside the 1996 Everest Disaster : Ken Kamler - amazing video.

2009-06-27T07:47:00.006+01:00

I would like to invite you to watch one of movie of Everest collection…
Inside the 1996 Everest Disaster : Ken Kamler, video on You Tube.

Dr. Kenneth Kamler recalls his harrowing experience on a climb towards the summit of Mt. Everest in 1996 when a lethal 2-day storm kicked up. The event, documented by writer Jon Krakauer in his bestselling book Into Thin Air, would lead to the deaths of eight climbers and leave several others -- including Kamler -- stranded and fighting for their lives.

In this presentation, Kamler explores the effects of the disaster, the rescue, and the relentless drive of human survival.

EG is the celebration of the American entertainment industry. Since 1984, Richard Saul Wurman has created extraordinary gatherings about learning and understanding. EG is a rich extension of these ideas - a conference that explores the attitude of understanding in music, film, television, radio, technology, advertising, gaming, interactivity and the web - The Entertainment Gathering

Kenneth "Ken" Kamler is a microsurgeon and mountain climber. Kamler was chosen by New York Magazine as one of New York City's best doctors in 2002. He is a microsurgeon trained at Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center who also practices extreme medicine in the most remote corners of the world. He has served as chief high altitude physician for the NASA-sponsored research in human physiological responses to extreme altitude.

As covered in the book Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer, in May 1996, Kamler was at Camp III on Mount Everest preparing for a summit attempt when a ferocious storm engulfed three teams of climbers returning from the peak. As the only doctor on the mountain when the storm hit, he treated the survivors as they descended from Camp IV.

A climber and doctor on many Everest expeditions, he has worked with National Geographic to carry out geological research and precision mapping using laser telescopes and global positioning satellite beacons. He appeared on ABC's Nightline in the first-ever live interview from Everest base camp. and has appeared many times on national television. Kamler lives in the New York City area.

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Everest my dream

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Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

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The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

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Attraction of Nepal Outdoor Country.

Trekking

Boating

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Bungy Jumping

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Honey Hunting

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Mountain Flights

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Ultra Light Aircraft

Fishing and Angling

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Hot Air Ballooning

Die Trying by Bo Parfet and Richard Buskin.

The 14th Andrzeja Zawada’s Mountain Film Review – Lądek-Zdrój September 2009.

Mark your calendars!14th Andrzeja Zawada’s Mountain Film Review 200918th to 20th September 2009 in Lądek-Zdrój, Poland.

5th Mountain Film Festival Zakopane 2009. /Version english and polish/

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Film & Foto Competition 5th Mountain Film Festival.

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K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs.

No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks by Ed Viesturs.

Michael 'Bronco' Lane - Interview.

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“I’m aware of the tricks that altitude and hypoxia can play on you. While climbing, I test myself, asking myself whether I’m aware of the conditions, of my actions, and of what is around me.”

The Elizabeth Hawley Story - I’LL CALL YOU IN KATHMANDU.

Dark Summit – The True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil.

Events - Polish climbers in Himalayas.

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Mallory's Clothing Could Have Climbed Mt. Everest.

Andrew Comyn Irvine one of the famous British climber.

George Leigh Mallory one of the famous British climber.

George Mallory & Andrew Irvine Tribute - video on YouTube.

16th annual International Climbers’ Festival - Lander, Wyoming.

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Communication:

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Responsible Travel:

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Climb Aconcagua - one of the Seven Summits list. /Version english and polish/

Aconcagua with Patagonicas – Trip Description

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In February of 2000, a group of people gathered in the vaulted rooms of the Museo della Montagna in Torino, Italy to forge an alliance committed to the future of mountain film.

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Mark your calendars!
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18th to 20th September 2009 in Lądek-Zdrój, Poland.

Mark your calendars!
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10th to 13th September 2009 in Zakopane, Poland.