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Posted by Author On 5/29/2009

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Everest, Everest History, Everest Firsts

Posted by Author On 5/29/2009

POST-SUMMARY-HERE

Expedition, expedition list, expeditions on 8000m peaks

Posted by Author On 5/29/2009

POST-SUMMARY-HERE

K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs – Coming October 2009 – Pre-order your copy today!”

About the Author :

Ed Viesturs become the first American climber to reach the summit of all the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, in May, 2005. This May, he summited Everest for the 7th time.K2 Life and Death book

He is the first American, and 12th person overall, to summit all fourteen mountains over 8000 meters (collectively known as the eight-thousanders), and the sixth climber to do it without bottled oxygen.

* Ed Viesturs homepage : – http://www.edviesturs.com/

* see – Ed Viesturs the famous American climber

ABOUT THIS BOOK :

A thrilling chronicle of the tragedy-ridden history of climbing K2, the world’s most difficult and unpredictable mountain, by the bestselling author of No Shortcuts to the Top

At 28,251 feet, the world’s second-tallest mountain, K2 thrusts skyward out of the Karakoram Range of northern Pakistan. Climbers regard it as the ultimate achievement in mountaineering, with good reason. Four times as deadly as Everest, K2 has claimed the lives of seventy-seven climbers since 1954. In August 2008 eleven climbers died in a single thirty-six-hour period on K2–the worst single-event tragedy in the mountain’s history and the second-worst in the long chronicle of mountaineering in the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges. Yet summiting K2 remains a cherished goal for climbers from all over the globe. Before he faced the challenge of K2 himself, Ed Viesturs, one of the world’s premier high-altitude mountaineers, thought of it as “the holy grail of mountaineering.”
In K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain, Viesturs explores the remarkable history of the mountain and of those who have attempted to conquer it. At the same time he probes K2’s most memorable sagas in an attempt to illustrate the lessons learned by confronting the fundamental questions raised by mountaineering–questions of risk, ambition, loyalty to one’s teammates, self-sacrifice, and the price of glory. Viesturs knows the mountain firsthand. He and renowned alpinist Scott Fischer climbed it in 1992 and were nearly killed in an avalanche that sent them sliding to almost certain death. Fortunately, Ed managed to get into a self-arrest position with his ice ax and stop both his fall and Scott’s.
Focusing on seven of the mountain’s most dramatic campaigns, from his own troubled ascent to the 2008 tragedy, Viesturs crafts an edge-of-your-seat narrative that climbers and armchair travelers alike will find unforgettably compelling. With photographs from Viesturs’s personal collection and from historical sources, this is the definitive account of the world’s ultimate mountain, and of the lessons that can be gleaned from struggling toward its elusive summit.

* Source : – http://www.randomhouse.com/

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About the Author :

Ed Viesturs become the first American climber to reach the summit of all the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, in May, 2005. This May, he summited Everest for the 7th time.No Shortcuts to the Top

He is the first American, and 12th person overall, to summit all fourteen mountains over 8000 meters (collectively known as the eight-thousanders), and the sixth climber to do it without bottled oxygen.

* Ed Viesturs homepage : - http://www.edviesturs.com/

* see – Ed Viesturs the famous American climber

Publisher Comments:

This gripping and triumphant memoir follows a living legend of extreme mountaineering as he makes his assault on history, one 8,000-meter summit at a time.

For eighteen years Ed Viesturs pursued climbing’s holy grail: to stand atop the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, without the aid of bottled oxygen. But No Shortcuts to the Top is as much about the man who would become the first American to achieve that goal as it is about his stunning quest. As Viesturs recounts the stories of his most harrowing climbs, he reveals a man torn between the flat, safe world he and his loved ones share and the majestic and deadly places where only he can go.

A preternaturally cautious climber who once turned back 300 feet from the top of Everest but who would not shrink from a peak (Annapurna) known to claim the life of one climber for every two who reached its summit, Viesturs lives by an unyielding motto, “Reaching the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” It is with this philosophy that he vividly describes fatal errors in judgment made by his fellow climbers as well as a few of his own close calls and gallant rescues. And, for the first time, he details his own pivotal and heroic role in the 1996 Everest disaster made famous in Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air.

In addition to the raw excitement of Viesturs’s odyssey, No Shortcuts to the Top is leavened with many funny moments revealing the camaraderie between climbers. It is more than the first full account of one of the staggering accomplishments of our time; it is a portrait of a brave and devoted family man and his beliefs that shaped this most perilous and magnificent pursuit.

Review:

“In the opening scene of Viesturs’s memoir of his quest to become the first American to climb the 14 mountains in the world higher than 8,000 meters, he and a friend nearly get thrown off the face of K2 when they’re caught in an avalanche. It’s one of the few moments in the story when his life genuinely seems at risk, as his intense focus on safety is generally successful. ‘Getting to the top is optional,’ he warns. ‘Getting down is mandatory.’ That lesson comes through most forcefully when Viesturs recounts how he almost attempted to reach the summit at Everest the day before the group Jon Krakauer wrote about in Into Thin Air, but backed out because it just didn’t feel right. His expertise adds a compelling eyewitness perspective to those tragic events, but the main focus is clearly on Viesturs and his self-imposed ‘Endeavor 8000.’ From his earliest climbs on the peaks of the Pacific Northwest to his final climb up the Himalayan mountain of Annapurna, Viesturs offers testimony to the sacrifices (personal and professional) in giving your life over to a dream, as well as the thrill of seeing it through.” Publishers Weekly (Copyright Reed Business Information, Inc.)

* Source :- http://himalman.wordpress.com/

** Previous story : - Books.

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Michael 'Bronco' Lane - Interview.

Posted by himalman On 8/05/2009 09:46:00 am 1 comments

In 1976 legendary climber Major Michael ‘Bronco’ Lane joined the first all-military expedition to climb Mount Everest.

Michael 'Bronco' Lane reached the summit of Mount Everest on the 16th May 1976 with fellow partner John 'Brummie' Stokes while on the Joint British Army & Royal Nepalese Army Everest Expedition. Bronco then went on to be leader of the 1983 Special Air Service Regiment Everest Expedition.

‘Bronco Lane is an exceptional soldier whose spirit of adventure and readiness to take risks has led him to the most extreme and dangerous places on earth - including the summit of Mt. Everest.’ - General Michael Rose.



Brummie and Bronco, Brummie being the one on the right.

Source: John "Brummie" Stokes


1. You joined the Army Mountaineering Association while in the Special Air Service. Do you think you would of started climbing if it wasn’t for the Army?

I joined the Army aged 16 as a Junior Leader in November 1961 after being introduced to basic mountaineering whilst participating on an Ullswater Outward Bound Course. 'Topper Brown' my first Troop Sergeant had been an instructor at Tywyn Army Outward Bound School and he continued to nurture an interest in general. However it was not until I joined 22 SAS Regiment in 1967 and found myself in a Mountain Troop that I really developed my involvement.

2. Its been 33 years since you were on the Summit of Mount Everest. Do you still remember your time up there?

Yes I do have a series of selected memories, probably nurtured by my still giving the odd slide presentation. Besides the obvious ones of isolation, cold and effects of altitude the single over-riding aspect is one of a total focus to just keep going -eight to ten steps at a time - then a long pause to recover and move on again, for as long as it takes.


3. You left your top camp at 6am for the summit and had agreed with Brummie Stokes that if you were not on the summit by midday you would turn around and head back. You both reached the summit at 3.15, what happened to your turn around time?

We paused on reaching the South Summit at 1pm, when a short break in the clouds gave us a tantalising view of the Hillary Step and the final summit slopes.

I remember looking at my watch, noting the time and turning to Brum gave him a 'thumbs up'! He replied with an affirmative 'thumbs up' and I continued to traverse the cornice ridge across to the Step. In a similar situation I very much doubt if any mountaineer anywhere near the summit of Everest would have reacted differently.


4. On the descent you and Brummie Stokes were forced to bivouac because of the bad weather. During that night did you ever imagine that you would survive to see the morning?

We left the summit at about 15:40 in poor visibility and with very little oxygen left. We had cached a spare bottle at 28,000 feet and our over-whelming need was to find this. We safely abseiled back down the Hillary Step and somehow reached the South Summit, after which a combination of thick cloud, total lack of trail and no oxygen had us stumbling onwards, in a pretty bad state. Then, just at last light and without any illumination, we arrived at our upright orange bottle stuffed in a snow bank.

Totally exhausted in the darkness we huddled facing each other sitting on our sacks with the bottle between us. Brum had the first go at connecting and could not get a secure join and slumped. In total desperation, I took off my outer mitt and wearing just my thin contact glove was able to get a sound coupling. We swapped over the mask every few minutes through-out the long night. Both of us experienced hallucinations and rubbed each others backs and legs to stimulate circulation, as we slipped in and out of unconsciousness. Fortunately never both of us together.

Around about midnight, the storm died down and it became a cold, clear but luckily a windless night, which was our salvation.


I do not recall ever thinking "I'm not going to make it". Possibly soldiers have that part of their psyche removed early in basic training, as there will be lots of times on active operational service when all that goes through the mind is "Stick It! Stick It! Stick!" to keep you alive.

5. Due to the cold you lost 5 fingers and 10 toes. How long did it take you to recover from this ordeal?

Three months later during a very hot summer, we had the frost bitten digits surgically removed by Mr Charles Renton, a well respected surgeon at Hereford County Hospital. It would take a further six months for the stumps to heal sufficiently for our return to active service with the unit.

6. Is it true that you gave the National Army Museum your 5 fingers and 10 toes for them to exhibit in the museum?

Yes. They had originally been donated to the London Wellcome Museum for their medical exhibition and following a re-organisation were returned and I kept them in my garage. Some years later whilst giving a lecture at the National Army Museum Chelsea, to promote my book Military Mountaineering, I was asked if I had anything suitable for a permanent loan. So the digits found another useful home, from where they have made special 'guest' appearances here and there.

7. What is your view on the many commercial expeditions that are on Everest every year?

Amongst the many negative aspects, to my mind the one major plus factor is that a good percentage of the wealth generated today on Everest remains with the Sherpa peoples of the Solu Khumbu.

8. Of all the mountains you have climbed on around the world which is your favourite?


In the summer of 1972 I was a member of the 12 strong AMA Axel Heiburg Expedition in the Canadian Arctic. We split into teams of four and ours spent six weeks in the field climbing virgin peaks accessed by glaciers. We climbed over 30 and I named one 'Kneecap' in recognition of Brum who was absent having his shattered kneecap removed, following an incident in the Dhofar War when he'd tried to stop an AK47 round.

9. Today, most items used on Everest are lighter, smaller and of better quality. Which item used today would you of liked back in 1976?

Double Plastic High Altitude Boots so I could still walk around barefooted!

And finally, my last question.

10. Do you think that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine climbed the Second Step?

Yes I most certainly do!

The above Questions & Answers are (C) Copyright of Mount Everest The British Story

* Source : - http://www.everest1953.co.uk/BroncoLane.html

www.Everest1953.co.uk


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