Yesterday (February 17, 1980) was the 30th anniversary of the first-ever summit of Mount Everest in the Winter season.

Two Polish mountaineers, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy, reached the top of the world’s highest peak in 1980, going down in history as the first people to get there in winter.Over the last 30 years, seven people have so far completed the challenge in winter time, however, in Summer, the journey is easier, so 3,500 have managed to summit Everest.

The 20-strong group which initially set off for the mountain was whittled down to two – the final leg of the journey upwards took seven hours, said Leszek Cichy to Polish Radio.
There isn’t much snow in the Himalayas in winter, as it is blown off by heavy wind. Mount Everest is fortified against mountaineers with large slabs of ice, strong winds and frost. The temperatures in tents at night dropped to minus 40˚C.

“We were high up on the ridge, the nearest people were several hours walking distance away from us. The only thing that allows us to keep in touch was radio. The wind was strong. And, as we were descending, dusk set in and snow from western face blew in the air. And we found ourselves on the border between what is real and unreal, on the border between shadow and the sun, night and day, and also, in a way, between life and death,” Cichy said, referring to the last stages of the ascent.
* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

* Related Links :

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Krzysztof Wielicki the famous Polish climber./ Version polish and english /

- Leszek Cichy the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Previous story :

- Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

- The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Updated: Jan 25, 2010
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes

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EVEREST TRAVERSES

Gavin Turner double traverse
American Gavin Turner will attempt a world first: Everest double traverse, from Nepal to Tibet and back, via Everest summit.

Gavin has been training for the undertaking during the last two years. He climbed Cho Oyu (with O2 from C3) and returned all the way back to ABC on summit day. In Washington, he climbed Rainier 7 times to the summit, including 4 solo ascents.
www.everestdoubletraverse.org

Andrew Lock Everet, take 3 Tibet/Nepal No-O2 traverse
After completing the 14×8000ers quest on Shisha Pangma last fall, Australian Andrew Lock aims for excellence by summiting Everest without O2 from Tibet and then traverse to Nepal. Andrew has summited Everest twice before, both times with supplementary Oxygen.
www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock

EVEREST SOUTH

Nobukazu Kuriki No-O2 ascent
After a failed attempt last year, Japanaese Nobukazu Kuriki plans to give Everest another shot this spring without O2.
www.plus-blog.spor tsnavi.com/bt_nobukazu2

Argentinean bicentennial expedition
The expedition goal is to summit Everest by May 2010, exactly 200 years after Argentina’s May Revolution.

All team members are Bariloche residents trained in the Andes. Climbers are Ramon Chiocconi, Alvar Puente, Marcelo Topo Deza, Carlos Charly Galosi and Leonardo Cuny Proverbio.

Brazil-Guatemala expedition
Manoel Morgado (BRA) with Andrea Cardona (GUAT) who will attempt the first Central American lady summit of Everest.
wwww.manoelmorgado.com.br

Waldemar Niclevicz’s Brazilian expedition
Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Gustavo Burda will guide climbers to the summit.

* update (February 1, 2010) Meanwhile, Brazilian Waldemar Niklevicz updated ExWeb that his planned Everest expedition has been postponed for 2011.
www.niclevicz.com.br

Brad Jackson and Sandy Hoby Australian Everest 2010 Expedition
After a failed attempt in 2008 as members in Altitude Junkies’ team, Australians Brad and Sandy are ready for a second round.
www.everest2010.com.au

Ta Loeffler Mountain of Learning
After a failed attempt in 2007, Ta of Newfoundland is back to Everest, climbing again from its south side. Ta hopes to bag Everest and Vinson in order to complete the 7 Summits quest.
www.taloeffler.com

Anne-Mari Hyrylinen – Skyclimbers Finnish expedition
The team’s mission is to help Anne-Mari Hyrylinen to become the first Finnish female Everest summiteer. The team will climb via the South Col route.
www.skyclimbers.com

Altitude Junkies
After a large number of expeditions in Tibet, leader Phil Crampton got a taste of Everest south side last year and goes for more this spring as leader of a fully-supported expedition.
www.altitudejunkies.com

Dawa Steven Eco Everest expedition 2010
Dawa Steven and his Eco Everest Expedition plan clean the peak up to 8000 m and above.

The plan this year is to bring down 1000 kgs of trash from above Camp 2 and 6000 kgs from Camp 2 and below.
www.asian-trekking.com

Peak Freaks
Tim Rippel’s outfit will return to Everest south side.
www.peakfreaks.com

Alpine Ascents International
The Everest regulars are back for another year.
www.alpineascents.com

Adventure Consultants
Another regular Everest commercial outfit back for more.
www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Everest

Explore Your Planet
Fresh from Antarctica, Scott Woolums is expected back on Everest south side this spring, leading a fully-supported expedition.
exploreyourplanet2009.blogspot.com/

RMI guides
Everest mega-summiteer Dave Hahn (the non-Sherpa climber with most Everest summits bagged) is back for more, leading RMI’s 2010 expedition.
www.rmiguides.com

IMG
Eric Simonson’s International Mountain Guides are back for Everest and Lhotse.
www.mountainguides.com

Mountain Madness
Ready to bag his 10th Everest summit, Willie Benegas will lead for MM as usual.
www.mountainmadness.com

Summit Climb
Dan Mazur is appointing Arnold Coster as leader on Everest south side. The US-based company is also launching teams on Everest north side and Lhotse.
www.summitclimb.com

Expedition Hanesbrands
Canadian Jamie Clarke aims for his second Everest summit.
climbwithus.com

Jagged Globe
Tim Calder will lead J-Gs team on Everests South Col route. The UK-based outfitter is also launching a team on the peak’s north side. www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Dream Guides
Fully-supported expedition led by 6-time Everest summiteer British Kenton Cool and Rob Casserley.
www.dreamguides.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. www.kobler-partner.ch

Costa Rica “David’s Braves” expedition
A Christian group known as Los Valientes de David (David’s Braves) hope to climb Everest for Jesus. Led by Enmanuel Menendez.
http://esparzacostarica.blogspot.com

HimEx
Of Discovery fame and Nangpa La/David Sharp infame, Russell Brice returns to Everest south side this year.
www.himex.com

EVEREST NORTH

Gerlinde & Ralf
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and husband Ralf Dujmovits will return to Everest north face for an oxygen-less attempt. Ralf has climbed all 14, 8000ers (Everest with O2), Gerlinde has Everest and K2 left.
www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at
www.amical.de

Alfredo Garcia no O2 ascent
Spanish Alfredo Garcia (28) will attempt Everest with Pedro Garcia and Martin Corrales. Garcia previously summited Gasherbrum II (2006), Cho Oyu (2007) and Broad Peak (2008).

The team will carry two emergency canisters but climb without O2.
www.everest2010.es

Jordan Romero Everest at 13

Together with his father Paul and Karen Lundgren; Big Bear Lake resident Jordan Romero hopes to summit Everest at the ripe age of 13.
www.jordanromero.com

Project-Himalaya
Jamie McGuinness is back in Tibet, leading a fully-supplied expedition.
www.project-himalaya.com

7Summits-Club
Alex Abramov and his 7Summit-Club team will be back to their usual Everest playground: the north side.
www.7summits-club.com

Adventure Peaks
The UK-based outfitter will also be climbing from the north side.
www.adventurepeaks.com

SummitClimb
Dan Mazur will lead a team on Big E’s north side.
www.summitclimb.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, plus Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Jagged-Globe
The British outfitter is guiding both sides.
www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Lhotse

Meagan McGrath back for more

After her solo, partial Antarctica ski this winter (Patriot Hills-South Pole), Canuck Aerospace Engineer Meagan McGrath will lead a trekking group to Everests BC and then climb Lhotse, before attempting K2 in summer.
www.meaganmcgrathadventurer.com

Marco Confortola+K2 Sherpa rescuer (tentative)
2008 K2 survivor Marco Confortola plans to climb Lhotse with one of the Sherpas who saved his life.
www.marcoconfortola.it

SummitClimb
SummitClimb’s Everest leader Arnold Coster will also guide a group attempting Lhotse.
summitclimb.com

IMG
Also IMG will guide both Everest and Lhotse.
gwww.mountainguides.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, plus Lhotse and Makalu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Annapurna double-headers

Edurne Pasabans ultimate double-header for the 14×8000ers
I’m definitely’ going to Annapurna in spring, but I’m also considering another attempt (my fifth) on Shisha Pangma during the same season, Edurne Pasaban told media.

Leading a climbing-filming expedition by Al Filo de lo Imposible (on the edge of the impossible) Spanish TV documentary series; Edurne teams up with regular partners Alex Chicon, Asier Izaguirre and cameraman Ferran Latorre.
www.edurnepasaban.net
www.endesayedurnepasaban.com
blogs.rtve.es/alfilo/posts

Jae-Soo Kim’s Kolon Sports South Korean expediton
Partner of the late MI-Sun Go, 10×8000ers summiteer Jae-Soo Kim is continuing her (and his own) 14×8000er project.

S.Korea Expressway Corporation Team
Mi-Gon Kim, Hong-Bin Kim are heading to Annapurna after Manaslu.

S. Korea’s BuSan Dynamic Team
Chang-Ho Kim is climbing Annapurna after a preparatory climb on a another (yet unconfirmed) 8000er.

Annapurna

Oh Eun-Sun: the final
Racing faster than anyone for the 14×8000ers, South Korean Oh Eun Sun chain-climbed Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I in just four months before dangerous conditions on Annapurna prevented her from completing her record quest. Now she is back and ready to finish the task, teaming up with her two regular Sherpas.
oes.blackyak.co.kr

Piotr Pustelnik: The Knight’s comeback
The Himalayan Knight is back to face his last 8000er for the fifth time.

Piort is dedicating the climb to long-time friend and climbing mate Piotr Morawski, perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri last year. Morawski’s death put an end to the legendary “Three Peters” (Pustelnik, Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor) who had accomplished some of the foremost Himalaya expeditions in later years.
This time, Piotr is putting together a team of seasoned Himalaya climbers, including Russian 11×8000er summiteer Serguey Bogomolov.
www.trekandmore.pl
himalman.wordpress.com

Joao Garcia for his final 8000er
Joao Garcia will attempt to become the first Portuguese 14×8000er summiteer on Annapurna.
www.joaogarcia.com

Young-Seok Park’s south face expedition
Following a new route on Everest SW face last year, South Korean 14×8000er summiteer Young-Seok Park now aims for Anna’s mighty south face.
www.parkyoungseok.com

Carlos Pauner for his “tough 9th”
With eight 8000ers bagged, Spanish Carlos Pauner hit a series of glitches on Shisha Pangma and Manaslu last year, now hoping for vindication on Annapurna.
www.carlospauner.com

Kangchenjunga

Nicholas Rice
American Nick Rice plans to give Kangchenjunga a shot, most likely by the British Route on the south face, and then head back to Pakistan for his second attempt on K2.
www.nickrice.us

Makalu

Field Touring Alpine – led by Fabrizio Zangrilli
American mountain guide Fabrizio Zangrilli will lead Australian/US outfitter Field Touring Alpine’s first expedition on Makalu.
www.fieldtouring.com
fabriziozangrilliguiding.blogspot.com

British Service SE Ridge expedition
UK military plan a second attempt on Makalu South East Ridge with team of 8 climbers drawn from across the 3 services.
raf.mod.uk

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Dhaulagiri

Chilean Expedicin Bicentenario Dhaulagiri
Ernesto Olivares will lead Juan Andres Covarrubias Alcalde, Juan Manuel Santa Cruz Campaa, Andre Claro Gubbins, Martin Riesco Wachholtz, Marcelo Grifferos Caceres and Francisco Larrain Amuntegui.
www.dhaulagiri2010.cl

Manaslu

Carlos Soria for his 9th 8000er at 71
Veteran Spanish climber Carlos Soria hopes to tick off his Himalaya no 9 at age 71.
http://www.carlossoriaalpinista.com

Shisha Pangma

Amical Alpin

Herbert Wold if appointed leader on Amical’s commercial expedition.
Amical.de

Cho Oyu

SummitClimb
Dan Mazur’s American outfit will hit Cho Oyu this spring.
summitclimb.com

Adventure Peaks
UK-based outfit AP will be there as well.
www.adventurepeaks.com

Amical Alpin
The Germany-based outfit will be led by Andreas Sippel.
Amical.de

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss outfit has also announced a Cho Oyu expedition in spring, 2009.
Kobler-partner.ch

* * Related Links :

- 2010 climbing season kick-off: Everest and Himalaya list of expeditions!

- Everest 2010: No Everest Traverses in 2010.

- Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Previous story :

- The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Author : Kraig Becker

It feels a little odd to be writing about the Everest 2010 season before Christmas, but when our friend Alan Arnette has already launched his coverage, I’m just trying to keep up. As regular readers know, Alan has the best coverage of Everest that you’ll find anywhere, and it looks like he’s going to surpass himself in the spring climbing season.

Mt. Everest – Everest 2010 season

Today we get a new entry that true Everest junkies will enjoy, as it is An Insider’s Look at Everest 2010, kicking things off with an interview with Phil Crampton, the owner of the Altitude Junkies, one of the best, and most reputable guide services on the mountain.

Alan begins the blog post with a little background on Phil, and his experience guiding in the Himalaya. From there, he goes into the interview itself, asking Phil about his thoughts for the spring climbing and trekking season in Nepal, whether or not he thinks it will be a “normal” year on Everest, and much more. The past few season’s on Everest haven’t been “normal” so to speak, thanks in part to the closures of Tibet, and the uncertainty of gaining access from that side of the mountain. Phil also talks about the rising costs of making a climb on Everest and the differences he found between climbing the North and South sides of the mountain.

All in all, Phil expects this to be a very good year on Everest, with a lot of the uncertainty from the past two years out of the picture. That should make a lot of climbers and trekkers more secure in their travels come spring time, but as Alan points out, we’re still 16 weeks away from the start of that season, and a lot can change between now and then.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

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bean to cup

1. Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką, która zdobyła Kanczendzonge.

2. Biggest tragedy of Polish climbers in Himalayas - Mount Everest Expedition 1989. Everest za cenę życia.

3. Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

4. Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

5. Polish winter expedition to K2, (8611m), 2002/3

6. Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki - Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** Previous story : - EVENTS

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This article is a few years old now but still a good read if you have not seen it before!

In the Beginning

The project started a couple of years ago after the 1999 and 2001 Mallory/Irvine Expeditions on the big mountain set out to try and locate the bodies of the two climbers and see whether any evidence could be found of summit success. It was known that they were carrying a camera and the frozen conditions might have preserved the film.

George Mallory's body was famously located in 1999 and his possessions returned to his relatives. They wanted to pass on the mountaineering items to a heritage association, but nothing existed; Mary Rose picked up on the void and became involved. Fortunately the BMC had plans to open a museum and the items have now become the centre piece of the National Mountaineering Museum's displays.

Mary Rose was fascinated by the whole business and set about finding funding for an investigative project. The first stage was to document the items of clothing found on Mallory's body and to cross check with the Expedition Report to ascertain whether an answer could be found to the 75 year-old clothing debate - were the climbers were warm enough to be able to survive a summit attempt? Did their clothing offer enough flexibility to allow them to climb the obstacles on the route.

There were some fragments of clothing left on the body and these were tested through Southampton University's Textile Conservation Centre at Winchester and the normal mountaineering test labs at the University of Leeds. These gave crucial insights into the seven layers of thin natural fibre clothing worn. It had been calculated that the garments worn had a tog value of 3.5 togs.

Over the last year similar fabric and construction methods were researched so that a set of garments could be made up almost identical to the original items - not an easy job as patterns have changed, materials developed and construction methods improved.

As a reference point, Mary's Rose's husband - who is the same size as Mallory - and Alan Hinkes donned ancient and modern high altitude clothing side by side. Hinkes noticed how close fitting the 1924 replica garments were compared to his bulky modern suit plus the absence of zips - only just been invented in the 1920s - which must have made toilet breaks significantly more fiddly.

Side By Side

Alan's modern clothing weighed 4.825 kg compared to just 4.160 kg for the Mallory replicas, and the 1920s garments also offered better movement as the layers slid easily over each other.


(C)OUTDOORSmagic

The making of the Replicas

The team was headed up by Vanessa Anderson (a student on Derby Uni's MA) and Joyce Meader who took us through the up to seven layers worn: essentially silk, wool, silk, wool and finishing with an outer layer of Burberry cotton gabardine, with the hassles of sourcing the products.

It was interesting to note that elastic was not around then so there was no way to use underwear as it is used nowadays. Also many of the woollen items would have had to be had knitted by the families of the expedition members. It became obvious why Bernard Shaw's take on the outfits used was like 'a Connemara picnic surprised by a snowstorm'.

The boots have still not been investigated properly (any prospective PhD's wanting a subject?), but had novel hob-nails (attached through the 3mm leather sole, but insulated from the feet by a 10mm felt) and were calculated to weigh 0.8kg - compared to the 1953 footwear at 1.2kg, Al Hinkes's at 1.4 kg and Chris Bonington's at 1.8kg.

Three layers of socks worked with three layers of long-johns and military-style puttees. Compare this to the original lightweight boot revolution headed up by the KSB, which weighed in at just over 0.5 kg and it can be surmised how the 1924 initiated the current trend for lightweight outdoor items.

Documents from the 1910 era recorded how Hope and Kirkpatrick alpine summited with 2.8kg packs (that weighed just 0.8kg when empty!). No glove information has been developed and a call to anyone who might be able to shed light on the subject was put out. Another interesting item revealed was a woollen Buff type object (made from the best Merino), that had a multitude of uses ranging from head gear to kidney warmers.

Conclusions - It Was Possible

The conclusion was drawn that Mallory and Irvine had the correct clothing to enable them to survive at that altitude, plus the ability to climb easily while wearing it all.

They were also working in conjunction with the clothing and with the levels of fitness that allowed them to reach that altitude, would theoretically have been able to successfully summit the world's highest mountain.

* Source: OUTDOORSmagic

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George Leigh Mallory and Andrew Irvine were two English mountaineers who took part in a British expedition to Mount Everest in 1924. On the 8th June, both disappeared somewhere high on the North-East ridge during (or perhaps after completing) the final stage of their attempt to make the first ascent of the world's highest mountain, 29 years before Hillary and Norgay. The pair's last known sighting was only a few hundred metres from the summit. Mallory's ultimate fate was unknown for 75 years, until his body was finally discovered in 1999. Whether or not they reached the summit before they died remains a subject of speculation and continuing research.



* Source : – http://everest1953.blogspot.com/ ; – http://www.youtube.com/

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