Trekking Tours

Posted by Author On 5/29/2009


Everest, Everest History, Everest Firsts

Posted by Author On 5/29/2009


Expedition, expedition list, expeditions on 8000m peaks

Posted by Author On 5/29/2009


Other Routes – part3.

A Flag of the People's Republic of China On May 25, 1960, a Chinese team consisting of Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua and a Tibetan, Gingbu (Konbu) (assisted by Australian Daniel Rattner) makes the first summit via the North Ridge.

B Flag of Yugoslavia May 13th, 1979, Yugoslav West Ridge expedition, New route on West Ridge. Summit reached by two teams made up by Andrej Stremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik , and then two days later by Stipe Bozic, Stane Belak and Ang Phu. Stane Belak, Ang Phu and Stipe Bozic bivouac at 8300 meters. The next day, Ang Phu tragically fell on the way down and died.

C Flag of Japan May 10, 1980, Japan expedition led by Hyoriko Watanabe, New route on West Face and the Horbain Couloir.

D Flag of Italy Reinhold Messner (Italy, South Tyrol), via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir, first man to climb Everest alone and without oxygen tanks.

1960: Chinese and Tibetan team of 214 men and women, led by Shih Chan- chun, makes the first summit of Everest via the North Col and Northeast Ridge. Long doubted by Western mountaineers because of the lack of a summit photo and the claim of summiting at night, the photos and film the Chinese did release reveal that they at least climbed the Second Step, the key to the route (although Reinhold Messner claims he possesses documentation proving they didn’t climb it, so far this evidence has not been produced). The final assault party of Wang Fu-chou, Liu Lien-man, Chu Yin-hua, and the Tibetan Gonbu (also known as Gonpa) assaulted the final 15 foot (5 meter) Second Step headwall using pitons and team tactics. After Liu Lien- man repeatedly falls off attempting to lead the pitch, Chu Yin-hua takes off his boots and socks, and using a shoulder stand climbs the
last vertical pitch in bare feet! Exhausted by his effort, Liu Lien- man is forced to halt at 28,600 feet (8,700 meters), but the remaining three climbers make it to the summit where they purportedly leave a plaster bust of Chairman Mao by a rock outcrop.

1980: Solo: Reinhold Messner (Italy) 8/20/80 via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters without the use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.

On May 4-9, 1982, first Soviet Everest expedition, New route on South West Face and South West Pillar.

Nearby is the West Pillar , first climbed in 1982 by a Russian expedition including Eduard Myslovski and Volodya Balyberdin. There were a total of eleven summits on this expedition, and thankfully no fatalities. The route has not been repeated.

On May 4-9, 1982 – 11 climbers summit Everest.

The South Pillar

Another relatively safe route up Everest – if there really is such a thing as a “safe” route on Everest! – is the South Pillar, first climbed in 1980 by Polish super-alpinists Jerzy Kukuczka i and Andrzej Czok.

The route has been climbed in it’s entirety a total of 17 times with one fatality. The Polish team spent 16 days establishing the route through the difficult rock barriers towards the top of the route, so many climbers opt to traverse across to the SE Ridge lower down.

28 climbers have traversed over from this route and safely summited. The one fatality that occurred on the complete S Pillar route was Josef Psotka in 1984, who after successfully summiting was killed in a fall, but it was from the Lhotse Face while descending the standard SE Ridge route. So to date there have been no fatalities on the South Pillar itself.

* Previous story :

- Routes to summit Mount Everest.

- Routes of Mt Everest part 1. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Routes of Mt Everest part 2. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- Routes of Mt Everest part 3. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- Routes of Mt Everest part 4. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- Routes of Mt Everest part 5. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.5. /Version english and polish/

Dziś przedstawię kolejne drogi na szczyt Góry Gór, a ilustruje je zdjęcie poniżej:

A- Chińska droga z 1960r.
B- Jugosłowiańska droga zachodnia granią z 1979r.
C- Japońska droga z 1980r.
D- Wariant Messnera na ścianie północnej z 1980r.

Chińska ekspedycja z1960r prowadzona była przez Shih Chan-chuna ; weszła na Przełęcz Północną, a następnie podążała północną i południowo wschodnią granią na wierzchołek. 25 maja szczyt osiągnęli Wang Fu-chou, Chu Yin-hua i Tybetańczyk Gonpa.
Jugosłowiańska wyprawa z 1979r. kierowana przez Tone Skarję dokonała pełnego przejścia zachodniej grani. 13 maja szczyt osiągnęli Andrej Stremfelj i Jenrej Zaplotnik.
Japońska wyprawa z 1980r. kierowana przez Hyoriko Watanabe otworzyła nową drogę środkiem ściany północno-zachodniej , a w górnej partii Kuluarem Hornbeina. 10 maja na szczyt weszli Takashi Ozaki i Tsuneon Shigehiro.
Wariant Messnera z 1980r to nowa droga na ścianie północnej, droga częściowo biegnie północno-wschodnią granią, przecina ścianę północną i dalej prowadzi Wielkim Kuluarem, 20 sierpnia po samotnej wspinaczce wszedł na szczyt Austriak Reinhold Messner ( obecnie największy z żyjących himalaistów ).

Droga rosyjskiej wyprawy z 1982r.;

na południowo zachodniej ścianie i południowym filarze, który pierwszy raz pokonali Polacy Jerzy Kukuczka i Andrzej Czok w sławnej wyprawie z 1980r prowadzonej przez Andrzeja Zawadę.

Rosjanie przeszli nową drogą na filarze z lewej strony na południowo-zachodniej ścianie.

Jak dotąd nikt nie powtórzył tej drogi.

Pomiędzy 4 a 9 maja na szczycie stanęło aż 11 wspinaczy.

Droga rosyjska na filarze południowo-zachodniej ściany. /zdj po prawo/

* Zapraszam też do oglądania albumu o Everescie, wystarczy kliknąć link : Odkrywanie Everestu

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* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

1 Response to "Routes of Mt Everest part 6. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.6. /Version english and polish/"

  1. sant Said,

    thanks for this information .... please check out my blog also



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