Maciej Berbeka

the Tatra Mountain guide IVBV/UIAGM, the member of Mountain Rescue Service TOPR, the climber, participant and expeditions leader to Himalaya and Karakorum. Graduated Fine Art Academy in Cracow.

Maciek Berbeka has so far conquered 5 of 14 – 8000m. peaks:

1981 – Annapurna – south face of Annapurna, new route
1984 – Manaslu – first ascent in winter
1985 – Cho – Oyu – first ascent in winter
1988 – Broad Peak /central summit/ – first ascent in winter **
1993 – Mt.Everest

He has been climbing since 1969, participating in many expeditions such as:
Kavkaz 1976 – 77, Alps 1978, Himalaya 1979, Pamir 1980, Himalaya 1981(South Face of Annapurna),Rocky Mountains in Canada 1982, Himalaya 1983 -1984 (first ascent in winter), 1984 – 1855 (first ascent in winter Cho -Oyu), 1986 (Dhaulagiri I – new route unsuccesful attempt) 1987- 1988 (K2 unsuccesful attempt) Broad Peak – first ascent in winter **, 1993 Mount Everest. He was the expedition leader for Manaslu and Nanga Parbat.

** Maciej climbed solo to the summit of the neighboring Broad Peak, a mountain partially protected from the wind by K2 itself. Berbeka actually reached the summit, and came back exhilarated by his success.

Only later did he notice that he had actually reached Broad’s central summit, not the main. Although the central summit is higher than 8000 meters (8030), the central summit can’t be considered an official winter climb of the mountain.

… info from his site :

We provide a wide range of mountaineering experiences climbing – from the classic climbs in Tatra Mountains and Alps – to trekking in the highest mountains of the world.

We guarantee;
Safety in the mountains
Highly experienced guides IVBV/UIAGM
Mountaineer instructors
Skiing instructors

We offer full service including:

Classic climbs in Tatra Mountains

• classic climbs in Tatra Mountains: Gerlach (the highest peak of Tatra Mountains), Mnich, Wysoka, Lodowy ect.
• winter peak ascents, ski tours,
• climbing courses

Sightseeing tours in Zakopane and surroundings

• Zakopane
• folk nights
• Dunajec River Rafting
• Slovakia caves
• Morskie Oko Lake
• mountain flights
• walking in Valleys

The classic Trekking to the World`s Highest Mountains`

• Aconcagua – expedition – January
• Trekking – Annapurnę – (+ Tybet) – April
• Alpy – June, July , August, September, October – climbing such peaks as : Grossglockner 3789, Breithorn 4164 m., Mount Blanc 4807 m.
• Kilimandżaro – expedition – July
• Trekking at foot of Cho Oyu via Cho La Pas – Mt. Everest B.C. – Lothse (+ optional -climbing Island Peak) October/November

Official site : – http://www.mrtravel.pl/

MACIEJ BERBEKA

przewodnik tatrzański i międzynarodowy IVBV/UIAGM, ratownik TOPR, taternik, himalaista, uczestnik i kierownik wypraw w Himalaje i Karakorum. Studia ukończył na krakowskiej Akademii Sztuk Pięknych.

ZDOBYTE OŚMIOTYSIĘCZNIKI:
Mount Everest
Annapurna – wejście południową scianą Annapurny – nowa droga
Broad Peak – pierwsze zimowe wejście
Cho Oyu – pierwsze zimowe wejście
Manaslu – pierwsze zimowe wejście

Taternictwo uprawia od 1969 roku. Uczestniczył w wielu wyprawach alpinistycznych m.in.: Kaukaz 1976 – 77, Alpy 1978, Himalaje 1979, Pamir 1980, Himalaje 1981 (wejście południową ścianą Annapurny – nowa droga), kanadyjskie Góry Skaliste 1982, Himalaje 1983 – 84 (pierwsze zimowe wejście na Manaslu), 1984 – 85 (pierwsze zimowe wejście na Cho Oyu) 1986 (próba wejścia nową drogą na Dhaulagiri I),1987 – 88 (próba zimowego wejścia na K2 oraz pierwsze wejście zimowe na Broad Peak), 1993 (wejście na Mount Everest). Był kierownikiem wyprawy na Manaslu i Nanga Parbat. Wybitne osiągnięcia alpinistyczne, wieloletnie doświadczenie, świetna znajomość gór i wyjątkowa siła woli oraz znakomite i sprawdzone zdolności organizacyjne – stawiają Macieja Berbekę w światowej czołówce himalaistów.

Maciej Berbeka znany jest wśród miłośników ekstremalnych wypraw górskich jako odpowiedzialny, pomocny przyjaciel i przewodnik na najwyższe szczyty świata.

strona himalaisty : – http://www.mrtravel.pl/

- oryginal post by : - http://himalman.wordpress.com/

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

ExWeb special - Winter Broad Peak timeline:
No winners yet in a tough game

(K2Climb.net/MountEverest.net) Up until now only 8 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed. Over the previous weeks ExWeb have run debriefs on all the first winter ascents, and also all winter, or near winter, summits in Himalaya.

But what about winter attempts on the peaks ahead? Last week Simone Moro offered winter history for Makalu; while ExWeb’s contributor Rodrigo Granzotto Peron dodged flooding and power outages in his home town of Brazil for a skinny on the remarkably few winter attempts on Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat (check in for NP tomorrow).

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak - 2008/09 - route

Broad Peak Winter History
By Rodrigo Granzotto Peron

For two weeks in the winter of 1983, Andrzej Zawada and Jacques Olek researched the Baltoro Glacier; checking the weather and routes on Broad Peak and both Gasherbrums for future expeditions. Their conclusion was that “winter conditions were much more severe than in the Everest region.”

Polish climbers breaking trail

Five years later, in February 1988 Polish Maciej Berbeka (Manaslu winter 84, Cho Oyu winter 85) arrived for the first winter attempt on Broad Peak. It became the most successful winter climb on Falchan Kangri yet.

Berbeka reached the Foresummit by the normal route one month later. Very strong winds blowing from the real summit prevented him to do the first winter ascent of an 8000er in Pakistan.

Here come the Spaniards

In 2003 Spanish Juanito Oiarzabal arrived with a strong team: Juan Vallejo, Mikel Zabalza, Losu Bereziartu and Italian Silvio Mondinelli. They reached 6500m on the normal route, but after the destruction of Camp II (February 9th) and Camp I (February 20th), they headed home without summit.

(Ed note: the Spanish team reportedly said that just to get to BC was a long, frozen walk from hell.)

Latest attempts: another Italian against all odds

Four years later, in 2007 Simone Moro decided to try his luck, teaming up with Pakistan Shaheen Baig, again on the normal route. Progress was very slow as a result of high winds and incredible amount of snow on the route. The expedition was called off after reaching 6800 meters.

With valuable experience bagged, Simone Moro was back already the next year, in 2008 with Pakistan climbers Shaheen Baig and Quadrat Ali. But logistics wrecked the schedule right from the start.

The three climbers arrived BC very late (February 2nd). According to Simone, “this expedition is a charade of inefficiency, bad luck and unhelpful people.” Still, the mountaineers climbed the normal route until 7800 meters before calling the expedition off due to high winds in early March.

* see :

- Ice Warriors not give up - HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak - 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak - 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- Don Bowie’s website

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki - Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over - http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

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** Read these stories - and more! - at ExplorersWeb.com

*** oryginal post by : - http://himalman.wordpress.com/