Everest my dream: Karakoram

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K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs.

Posted by himalman On 8/15/2009 03:40:00 pm 2 comments

K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs – Coming October 2009 – Pre-order your copy today!”

About the Author :

Ed Viesturs become the first American climber to reach the summit of all the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, in May, 2005. This May, he summited Everest for the 7th time.

He is the first American, and 12th person overall, to summit all fourteen mountains over 8000 meters (collectively known as the eight-thousanders), and the sixth climber to do it without bottled oxygen.

* Ed Viesturs homepage : – http://www.edviesturs.com/

* see – Ed Viesturs the famous American climber

ABOUT THIS BOOK :

A thrilling chronicle of the tragedy-ridden history of climbing K2, the world’s most difficult and unpredictable mountain, by the bestselling author of No Shortcuts to the Top

At 28,251 feet, the world’s second-tallest mountain, K2 thrusts skyward out of the Karakoram Range of northern Pakistan. Climbers regard it as the ultimate achievement in mountaineering, with good reason. Four times as deadly as Everest, K2 has claimed the lives of seventy-seven climbers since 1954. In August 2008 eleven climbers died in a single thirty-six-hour period on K2–the worst single-event tragedy in the mountain’s history and the second-worst in the long chronicle of mountaineering in the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges. Yet summiting K2 remains a cherished goal for climbers from all over the globe. Before he faced the challenge of K2 himself, Ed Viesturs, one of the world’s premier high-altitude mountaineers, thought of it as “the holy grail of mountaineering.”
In K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain, Viesturs explores the remarkable history of the mountain and of those who have attempted to conquer it. At the same time he probes K2’s most memorable sagas in an attempt to illustrate the lessons learned by confronting the fundamental questions raised by mountaineering–questions of risk, ambition, loyalty to one’s teammates, self-sacrifice, and the price of glory. Viesturs knows the mountain firsthand. He and renowned alpinist Scott Fischer climbed it in 1992 and were nearly killed in an avalanche that sent them sliding to almost certain death. Fortunately, Ed managed to get into a self-arrest position with his ice ax and stop both his fall and Scott’s.
Focusing on seven of the mountain’s most dramatic campaigns, from his own troubled ascent to the 2008 tragedy, Viesturs crafts an edge-of-your-seat narrative that climbers and armchair travelers alike will find unforgettably compelling. With photographs from Viesturs’s personal collection and from historical sources, this is the definitive account of the world’s ultimate mountain, and of the lessons that can be gleaned from struggling toward its elusive summit.

* Source : – http://www.randomhouse.com/

** Previous story : - Books.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Books, Ed Viesturs, K2, Karakoram | |

Karakoram Climbing Events.

Posted by himalman On 7/19/2009 08:16:00 am 0 comments

1.

2.

3.

Climbers, Events, Karakoram | |

MOUNTAIN.

Posted by himalman On 6/17/2009 06:29:00 am 0 comments

1. ALPS.

2. ANDES.

3. HIMALAYAS.

4. KARAKORAM.

5. PAMIR.

6. Seven Summits.

Alps, Andes, Himalayas, Karakoram, Mountain, Pamir, Seven Summits | |

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009. /Version english and polish/

Posted by himalman On 6/11/2009 07:02:00 am 0 comments

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition led by Ryszard Pawłowski (he has summitted Everest three times 5/13/94, 5/12/95, and 5/18/99.); the team : Agenor Gawrzyał, Andrzej Życzkowski (KW Gliwice), Henryk Szczęsny, Piotr Snopczyński, Ryszard Zawada.

Ryszard Pawłowski (24 June 1950) Polish alpine and high-altitude climber and photographer. Member of The Explorers Club.

Ryszard Pawlowski in the founder and co-owner of Patagonia Mountain Agency. He has been climbing since 1970 and is an alpinism instructor and guide. He has climbed the mountains of North and South America, the Himalayas, Alps, Caucasus, Pamirs and Tien Shain.

Goal:

Ryszard Pawłowski wants to climb Broad Peak (8047m) by normal (first ascent) route.

Accomplishment time:

12.06.2009 – 01.08.2009

Description of the expedition:

The team wants to climb Broad Peak (8047m) by normal route.

The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.

* Source : - http://www.patagonia.com.pl/

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009.

Jubileuszowa wyprawa Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Cel:

Celem wyprawy jest wspinaczka na Broad Peak (8047m) – w 25 rocznicę zdobycia tego szczytu przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Termin realizacji :

Wyprawa startuje z kilkudniowym opóźnieniem (miała się rozpocząć 5 czerwca). a rozpocznie się 12.06.2009 i potrwa do 01.08.2009

Opis wyprawy:

Wejście na szczyt jest przewidziane drogą normalną, drogą pierwszych zdobywców.

Dla Ryszarda Pawłowskiego będzie to swoisty jubileusz ponieważ 25 lat wcześniej zdobył Broad Peak i był to wtedy jego pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik.

Dla Piotra Snopczyńskiego to już kolejny ośmiotysięcznik do zdobycia.

Natomiast pozostali uczestnicy wyprawy będą zdobywać Broad Peak jak swój pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik, choć należy podkreślić, że wszyscy oni mają już doświadczenie z wielu wypraw na inne szczyty organizowanych właśnie przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Uczestnicy :

Ryszard Pawłowski - Lider
urodzony w 1950 roku, zodiakalny Rak, ale Tygrys według horoskopu chińskiego, inżynier elektryk, instruktor alpinizmu, przewodnik górski.

Wziął udział w ponad 200 wyprawach w różne góry świata jako uczestnik lub organizator. Zdobył dziesięć szczytów ośmiotysięcznych, m.in. K2 (8611 m n.p.m.) płn. filarem. Jest jedynym Polakiem, który trzykrotnie stanął na szczycie Mt. Everestu (8848 m n.p.m.).

Dokonał wielu wejść trudnymi drogami wspinaczkowymi w różnych rejonach Ziemi. Był partnerem wspinaczkowym Jerzego Kukuczki, Piotra Pustelnika, Janusza Majera, Krzysztofa Wielickiego, Adama Zyzaka.
Jest członkiem prestiżowego The Explorers Club, stowarzyszenia zrzeszającego 3000 odkrywców i badaczy z kilkudziesięciu państw wszystkich kontynentów.

Sylwetka himalaisty :

- Ryszard Pawłowski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

Piotr Snopczyński
58 l., był ratownikiem Górskiego Ochotniczego Pogotowia Ratunkowego już od czasu studiów na Akademii Wychowania Fizycznego we Wrocławiu. W latach 1998-2002 był wiceprezesem tej organizacji. Przeszedł normalną drogę wspinania od Alp i Kaukazu po Karakorum i Himalaje. W latach 90. atakował kilkakrotnie Mt. Everest i K2. Wie, co to zima w Himalajach – trzy lata temu brał udział w wyprawie na Nanga Parbat. Wie też, jakie potrafi być lato w Himalajach – w 1993 r., podczas załamania pogody po zejściu ze szczytu Gaszerbrum II (8035 m), stracił odmrożone palce stóp.

Andrzej Życzkowski (KW Gliwice)
33 l., z zawodu - prawnik, z zamiłowania - taternik, alpinista, podróżnik.
Od 1992 r. członek Gliwickiego Klubu Wysokogórskiego. Instruktor narciarstwa oraz wspinaczki skałkowej. Przeszedł kilkadziesiąt dróg wspinaczkowych w Tatrach - latem i zimą. Uprawia wspinaczkę skalną, lodową oraz drytooling.
Organizator i uczestnik wypraw wysokogórskich w Karakorum (Gasherbrum II'2008, Chichmul Peak'1998), Garhwal (Kedar Dome'1999), Himalaje (Singu Chuli'2001), Pamir (Pik Lenina'2002), Tien-Shan (Chan Tenri'2003-2006).

Strona domowa uczestnika : - www.alpinizm.europ.pl

- Agenor Gawrzyał.

- Henryk Szczęsny.

- Ryszard Zawada.

Broad Peak - oznacza Szeroki Szczyt. Rozległość masywu leżącego zaledwie 9 kilometrów od K2, drugiej pod względem wysokości góry Ziemi, uzasadnia nazwę nadaną przez M. Conwaya w 1890 roku. Masyw jest bardzo rozbudowany i posiada szereg licznych tarasów i bocznych grani. Wyróżnić można w nim trzy wybitne wzniesienia. Są to Broad Peak (8047 m), Broad Peak North, wznoszący się na wysokość 7382 m i Broad Peak Middle mający 8006 m. Oba wierzchołki przekraczające 8000 metrów, oddzielone są od siebie głęboko wciętą przełęczą osiągającą 7800 m i traktowane obecnie są jako oddzielne cele wyprawowe.

Miejscowa nazwa tego szczytu to Falchan Kangri (w języku balti również oznacza to Szeroki Szczyt) Po raz pierwszy nazwy tej użył użył Ardito Desio. Na zachodzie masyw oddzielony jest od sąsiedniego K2 potężnym lodowcem Godwin Austen, do którego spływają lodowce: First West Falchan, Second West Falchan, Falchan Glacier i West Kharut Glacier, na wschodzie zaś ogranicza go North Gasherbrum Glacier połykający Easthern Falchan Glacier. Poza tym od północy przełęcz North Falchan La (6550 m) i od południa South Falchan La. W graniach bocznych wyróżnić można kilka sześcio- i pięciotysięcznych turni.

Broad Peak należy do grupy Baltoro Mustagh, obejmującej najwyższe partie łańcucha Karakorum. Eksplorację tego regionu rozpoczęto jeszcze w XIX wieku, ale siłą rzeczy głównym obiektem zainteresowania był pobliski, piękny K2, a Broad Peak musiał czekać na swą kolej aż do okresu powojennego. W 1954 roku Karl Maria Herligkoffer podjął próbę ataku. Kierowana przez niego wyprawa była jednak zmuszona wycofać się z wysokości 7100 metrów. Ostatecznie szczyt został zdobyty 9 czerwca 1957 roku. Uczestnicy austriackiej wyprawy kierowanej przez Markusa Schmucka, Kurt Diemberger, Fritz F. Wintersteller, Herman Buhl i sam kierownik weszli wówczas na szczyt zachodnią flanką. Droga ta jest obecnie tzw. Drogą Klasyczną.

Pierwszymi Polakami, którzy weszli na szczyt byli Jerzy Kukuczka i Wojciech Kurtyka. Dokonali tego 30 lipca 1982 roku. Bardziej spektakularnym sukcesem był atak Broad Peak Middle .W 1975 roku atakowała ten wierzchołek polska wyprawa kierowana przez Janusza Fereńskiego. Wtedy to na szczyt jako pierwsi w historii weszli Kazimierz Głazek, Janusz Kuliś, Marek Kęsicki, Andrzej Sikorski i Bohdan Nowaczyk. Trzej ostatni zginęli podczas dramatycznego zejścia. Było to pierwsze polskie wejście na wierzchołek ośmiotysięczny, niestety okupione wysoką ceną.

Organizator wyprawy :

Źródło : - http://www.patagonia.com.pl/

* zobacz też :

- posty o wyprawach Ryszarda Pawłowskiego, kliknij – Ryszard Pawłowski

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Climbers, expedition, Karakoram, Ryszard Pawłowski, travel | |

The eight-thousanders. Ośmiotysięczniki. /Version polish and english/

Posted by himalman On 6/10/2009 05:56:00 am 0 comments

The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia.

The first attempt on an eight-thousander took place on the expedition by Albert F. Mummery, and J. Norman Collie to Nanga Parbat in 1895; this ended in failure, when Mummery and two Ghurkas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.

The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.

The first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders was Reinh old Messner. He completed this task on October 16, 1986. A year later, in 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber to accomplish this feat. As of 2007, a total of fourteen people have followed through. This is an extremely hazardous feat; at least four people have died while in pursuit of this goal.

View Larger Map
Ośmiotysięcznik - popularne wśród himalaistów jak również miłośników gór i geografów określenie szczytu, którego wierzchołek wznosi się na ponad 8 tysięcy metrów wysokości ponad poziom morza. Takich szczytów na Ziemi wyróżnia się czternaście - 10 w Himalajach i 4 w Karakorum. Wśród nich wyróżnia się pięć tak zwanych wysokich ośmiotysięczników, czyli Everest, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse i Makalu, mające ponad 8500 metrów (w przypadku Makalu - prawie). Warto zauważyć, że magia 8000 metrów występuje tylko w układzie metrycznym miar. W anglosaskim układzie wysokości szczytów podajemy w stopach i wtedy pojawiają się dwudziesto- i dwudziestopięciotysięczniki.Całą czternastkę ośmiotysięczników nazywa się niezbyt precyzyjnie Koroną Himalajów, prawidłowo Korona Himalajów i Karakorum. Kolejni zdobywcy Korony wymienieni są w odnośnym artykule. Błędną nazwą jest Koroną Gór, która określa najwyższe szczyty górskie wszystkich kontynentów.

Na wysokości 8000 metrów ciśnienie atmosferyczne (a co za tym idzie zawartość tlenu w powietrzu) jest prawie trzykrotnie mniejsze niż na poziomie morza. Jest to główna przyczyna, dla której pierwsze wejście człowieka na wierzchołek szczytu ośmiotysięcznego miało miejsce dopiero w 1950 roku (Annapurna). Wcześniej jednak osiągano i przekraczano granicę ośmiu tysięcy metrów, na przykład podczas prób zdobycia Everestu przez wyprawy brytyjskie w latach 20 ubiegłego wieku.

- oryginal post by : - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousander

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

eight-thousanders, Himalayas, Karakoram | |

EVENTS

Posted by himalman On 6/07/2009 11:16:00 am 0 comments

1. Events - Polish climbers in Himalayas.

2. Himalaya Climbing Events.

3. Karakoram Climbing Events.

Climbers, Events, Himalaya, Karakoram, Polish climbers | |

Expedition List.

Posted by himalman On 6/07/2009 10:47:00 am 0 comments

Himalaya spring 2010 expeditions :

Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

Himalaya spring 2009 expeditions :

EVEREST TRAVERSES

David Liaño’s S-N-S double traverse
Mexican David Liaño plans to climb Everest from the south side, traverse to Tibet – and then climb all the way back across the summit after a few days of rest. David, 29, summited Cho Oyu in 2004 and Everest in 2005. Last year, he summited Everest again, plus Lhotse.
davidliano.blogspot.com

Bill Burke’s S/N traverse
American Bill Burke is on his third attempt to reach Everest’s summit. Climbing from the south side, once on top he hopes to traverse down to Tibet. At 67, he would also become the oldest American to top-out Everest.
www.eightsummits.com

EVEREST SOUTH

Sherpa brothers to remain 24h atop
Nepalese brothers Pemba Dorje Sherpa (30), Nima Gyalzen I Sherpa (31) and Phurba Tenzing I Sherpa (20) will try to break Babu Chiri’s world record by staying on top of Mount Everest for 24 hours. Pemba (6), Nima (7) and Phurba (1) have achieved 14 Everest summits between them.
Pemba, who in 2004 bagged a speed record by topping-out Everest in eight hours and 10 minutes, told media he will be climbing without supplementary O2, while his brothers will use bottled gas.
Info on the climbers on Reuters.com

Richard Hidalgo’s NoO2 attempt
Peruvian Richard Hidalgo is climbing Everest without supplementary O2 or porters. He has previously summited Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu. Richard also attempted Manaslu in 2008.
www.perualhimalaya.com.pe

Singapore female Everest expedition
Six Singaporean girls hope to attempt Everest from Nepal in spring, 2009. The team summited Cho Oyu in 2007.
www.womenoneverest.com

Airborne Ranger Club of Finland
Tomi Myllys (35, leader), Arri Leino (36), Heikki Karinen (42), Arto Suolanen (35), Mikko Vermas (35), Jukka-Pekka Nurmela (42), Juha Ohtonen (41), Jussi Rahomäki (26), Timo Kemppainen (40), Antti Inkinen (33) and Esa Pietiläinen (BC manager, 44) hope to become the first all-Finnish team to summit Everest.
Members in the Airborne Ranger Club of Finland previously reached Shisha’s central summit in 2002 and attempted Everest from Tibet in 2005. Next year, the team is heading for the South Pole.
www.everest.fi

Spanish Iberic Everest expedition
Members are Spaniards Rafael Sánchez, Lolo Díez, Cesar and Bruno Pérez de Tudela (father and son), José García and Ecuadorian Paulina Aulestia.
www.everest2009.es

Manuel Pizarro’s Everest2009.ca
Canadian Manuel Pizarro is ready for his second Everest summit. After reaching the top from Tibet in 2007, now he’s giving a try to the south side, climbing together with long-time friend André Rossin-Arthiat.
www.pq.lung.ca/everest2009

Everest Colombia expedition
Juan Gonzalo Ospina (COL) will be leading a team comprising Anibal Piñeda, Daniel Calderón, Jorge Roa Valencia, Oscar Huérfano and Wilmar Marulanda.
everestcolombia.com

Kobold & Cross
Watchmaker Michael Kobold, 29, and Will Cross are climbing Everest from its south side. Kobold joined Ranulph Fiennes on a previous attempt in 2007, but had to quit after sliding his had open cutting food in BC. Back then he also met Everest summiteer Will Cross – at the time attempting Lhotse.
For this second go, Michael has received training from the U.S. Navy SEALs. According to reports, Ralph Fiennes will also be there, following the expedition with a BBC filming crew.
www.everest-challenge.com
www.willcrossmotivates.com

Altitude Junkies (+Project-Himalaya?)
Fully-supported team guided by Phil Crampton – who will also lead a team on Lhotse. The expedition may be launched together with Jammie McGuinness’ Project-Himalaya NZ-based outfitter.
www.altitudejunkies.com
www.project-himalaya.com

Mexicans Yuri and Laura (with Altitude Junkies team)
Mexican climbers Yuri Contreras and Laura González del Castillo are going for Everest after summiting Manaslu in fall, 2008. They’ll be members in Phil Crampton’s Altitude Junkies team.
www.yuricontreras.com

Ian Rogers’ Climb4Life (with Altitude Junkies team)
British Ian Rogers is joining Phil Crampton’s team for a first attempt on Everest, via the South Col/SE ridge route.
www.climb4life.co.uk

Peak Freaks
Owner Tim Rippel (US) is leading Canadians Patrick Bernier, Sylvia Moster, Dr. Ben Wittman, Todd Lavigne and Rod Smith; Mexican Gerardo López, German Jan Pflugradt and Israeli Daniel Keren on a fully-supported expedition. Assistant guide will be Canadian Craig Evanoff.
www.peakfreaks.com

Adventure Alternatives
Gavin Bate is guiding two clients on the SE ridge route. This will be Gavin-s fifth time on Everest.
www.everestpost.com

Adventure Consultants
The NZ-based outfitter is launching a fully-supported Everest expedition on the south side.
www.adventureconsultants.co.nz

Alpine Ascents International
The American outfitter is again launching a fully-supported expedition on Everest’s south side.
www.alpineascents.com

IMG
Mark Tucker will lead International Mountain Guides’ Everest expedition.The company offers both a fully-supplied trip and a non-guided option.
www.mountainguides.com

Mountain Madness
One more season, Willie Benegas will lead MM’s fully-supported expedition.
www.mountainmadness.com

Summit Climb
American Dan Mazur’s outfitter is launching an Everest expedition on the south side, led by Sam Mansikka.
www.summitclimb.com

Jagged Globe
The UK-based outfitter is launching a fully-supported expedition on Everest’s South col route.
www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Dream Guides
Fully-supported expedition led by British Kenton Cool.
www.dreamguides.com

Adventure Peaks
The trip is described on the outfitter’s website as a “professionally led, non-guided expedition for experienced mountaineers.” Appointed team leader in 2009 shall be either Stuart Peacock or Dave Pritt.
www.adventurepeaks.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Ice8000
Henry Todd’s outfitter offers expeditions on Everest and Lhotse.
www.ice8000.com

Green Gibbon expeditions
www.everest2009.com

Yury Pritzker
himalayasdream.com

HimEx
Russell Brice is switching to Everest’s south side this year. His huge, fully-supported team includes five guides: Adrian Ballinger (Brit expat living in Colorado), British Shaun Huston, and new Zealanders Dean Staples, Mark Woodward and Mark Whetu (also expedition cameraman); expedition Doctor Monica Piris (from Spain), a large number of Hi Altitude Sherpas and BC staff, and a filming crew by Discovery Channel following the expedition.
Members in HiMex team are south African John, on his first Himalayan experience; French Antoine, Cho Oyu summiteer and with a previous Everest attempt on his resume; American Bruce and Chinese Oiu Xi Qiang, Jing, and Zhiwei. Check on other team members listed separately:
www.himex.com

David Tait – NoO2 attempt (with HiMex)
An Everest summiteer (2005) and traverser (2007), this times Briton David Tait hopes to top-out Everest without supplementary O2. Successful or not, this will be his last time on the mountain, he has stated.
www.davidtait.com

Adrian Ballinger (guiding with HiMex)
Although guiding for HiMex this season, Adrian also runs a guiding company of his own: Alpenglow expeditions.
www.alpenglowexpeditions.com

French Eugene Constant (with HiMex)
www.everest2009.fr

Billie Bierling (with HiMex)
German Billie currently lives in Nepal, working as a journalist, a mountain guide and assistant with Elizabeth Hawley.
www.billiebierling.com

Alec Turner (with HiMex)
Alec, from Fairbanks (Alaska) hopes to turn Everest into the first of his Seven Summits. Previously, he attempted Denali twice.
www.glacierboy.com

Megan Delanty (with HiMex)
A San Francisco resident, Megan attempted Everest in 2007.
www.megandelanty.com
hitopadventures.blogspot.com

Christopher Dovell (with HiM)
Currently living in London, Chris previously attempted Cho Oyu in 2007.
www.alpenglowexpeditions.com

Norwegians Hjertnes, Jacobsen and Rambøl (with HiMex)
Norwegians Asbjørn Hjertenes, Thomas Svane Jacobsen and Tommy Rambøl comprise a team on their own within HiMex’s logistics. They’ve all previously summited Aconcagua and Cho Oyu, among other peaks.
www.everest2008.no

Robert Kojetin (with HiMex)
Robby, from Durban (South Africa), has previously climbed Aconcagua, Elbrus and Kilimanjaro.
www.climbofhope.com

Gilad Stern (with HiMex)
Gilad lives in Cape Town, South Africa.
www.giladstern.co.za

Hellen Miller (with HiMex)
By summiting from Nepal in 2002, Hellen became the first American woman to summit Everest from Both sides – she had previously topped-out one year before after climbing from Tibet. Now she is back to the mountain, but apparently not attempting the summit again. According to expedition mates, she may join the team but eventually head for Lhotse.
www.womenontopoftheworld.com

EVEREST NORTH

Andrew Lock’s 14×8000ers grand final: Shisha Pangma + NoO2 Everest
Andrew Lock hopes to become the first Australian to complete the 14×8000ers list, by summiting Shisha Pangma. After Shisha he’ll attempt a no-O2 ascent on Everest’s north side on his own. Andrew has summited Everest twice before, both with supplementary oxygen.
andrew-lock.com

7Summits Club
Alex Abramov and his “7 Summits Club” is coming back to Everest Tibet side in spring 2009 with 16 members, 17 Sherpas, 5 guides and Doctor.
www.7summits-club.com

Lee farmer
After summiting Everest from Nepal last year, British Lee farmer is now joining an unguided private expedition to attempt the mountain via the North East ridge.
www.leefarmer.co.uk

SummitClimb
Dan Mazur himself is leading SummitClimb team on Everest’s Tibetan side.
www.summitclimb.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest.
www.kobler-partner.ch

7Summits.com
Launching a fully-supported trip on Everest’s north side in 2009.
www.7summits.com

China/Tibet cleaning expedition
“The Tibet Autonomous Regional Environmental Protection Agency plans to cooperate with the Tibet Mountaineering School in the first half of 2009 to conduct a comprehensive clean-up of Everest, according to Zhang Yongze, Secretary of the Tibet Autonomous Regional Environmental Protection Agency,” official sources reported.
Further info on Tibet.cn

Kangchenjunga

Alberto Zerain for his 7th 8000er
Spaniard Alberto Zerain is attempting Kangchenjunga in spring, 2009. Should he succeed, Kangchenjunga would become Alberto’s 7th 8000er. The Vasque climber has previously summited Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum II and, last year, K2.
Info on Alberto on Elcorreodigital.com

Annapurna

Koreans for Anna, Dhaula & Manaslu hat-trick
A five member-strong Koream team hopes to climb Manaslu, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in spring, 2009. The climbers, outfitted by Ang Karma’s WindHorse Trekking, will follow the normal route on all three peaks. Prior to departure, the Korean team hoped to find new members to share climbing permits with.
www.wind-horsetrek.com

Minarik & Kopold for Anna’s South face
Czech Martin Minarik and Slovak Dodo Kopold are teaming up to attempt Annapurna’s sheer south face. Prior to departure on March 12th, the team was open to new members to share the climbing permit with. However, Minarik pointed out the offer was strictly limited to cost-sharing up to BC, since Dodo and Him would climb the face as an independent team.
www.martinminarik.cz
www.romanticczechtours.com
www.dodokopold.com

Makalu

Fabrizio Zangrilli guiding on the “Great Black”
American mountain guide Fabrizio Zangrilli is leading a team on Makalu, starting April, 10.
mbdclimbing.blogspot.com
fabriziozangrilliguiding.blogspot.com

Jorge Salazar for his 3rd 8000er
After summiting Broad Peak in 2007 and Everest in 2008, Mexican Jorge Salazar is now heading for Makalu.
Info on jorge on Montanismo.org.mx

Dhaulagiri

“Two Peters” Hamor & Morawski for a Dhaula+Manaslu double header
Slovak Peter Hamor and Polish Piotr Morawski are going for Dhaulagiri and Manaslu in spring, according to reports.
www. piotrmorawski.com
www.peterhamor.sk

Manaslu

Joao Garcia for his 12th 8000er
Portuguese climber Joao Garcia is attempting Manaslu in spring, teaming up with Belgian Jean-Luc Fohal, and French Johan Jérémie Perrier. Should Joao succeed, the “mountain of the Spirit” would become his 12th 8000er – last year he summited Makalu and Broad Peak.
In addition to Manaslu, Joao has also Nanga Parbat and Annapurna left to complete the 14×8000ers list.
www.joaogarcia.com

German-Austrian Manaslu climb+ski descent
German Johannes Franke and Austrian Egon Rost are attempting to summit Manaslu via its NE side (the normal, Japanese route), and then ski down 3,400 vertical meters down to BC.
news on the team on Sz-online.de

Spanish Andalucia’s female expedition
Inmaculada Garrido (leader), Ingrid Medialdea, Tamara Romero and Lina Quesada are flying to Nepal on March 30th with sights set on Manaslu. The team will count on two high-altitude Sherpas.
The girls summited Baruntse last year as a preparatory climb. In addition, Lina Quesada is an experienced Himalayan climber: She has summited Everest, GII and Cho Oyu, and attempted Lhotse, Shisha Pangma and Broad Peak (twice).
www.linaquesada.es
www.fedamon.com

Rodrigo Fica – from Patagonia to the Himalaya
Chilean Rodrigo Fica (42) is heading for Manaslu, which he’ll attempt as an independent climber. Rodrigo is on his first Himalayan experience, since his regular playground is Patagonia: He was part of the team who achieved the first N-S complete crossing of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.
blogs.lasegunda.com/deportes/montanismo/rodrigo-fica

Amical Alpin
Rainer Pircher is leading a team launched by the Germany-based outfitter, starting on April 4th.
Amical.de

Jagged-Globe
After a first experience last year, the UK-based outfitter is organizing its second expedition on Manaslu in spring, 2009.
Jagged-globe.co.uk

Lhotse

Summit Climb
Dan Mazur’s outfitter is launching an expedition on Lhotse led by Sam Mansikka – who will also lead another SC team climbing Everest.
SummitClimb.com

Peak Freaks
Tip rippel, owner of the US-based outfitter, is the appointed leader for teams attempting Everest and Lhotse.
peakfreaks.com

Altitude Junkies
Phil Crampton is leading the two AJ teams – going for Lhotse and Everest this spring.
www.altitudejunkies.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss outfitter has announced a Lhotse expedition for spring, 2009.
Kobler-partner.ch

Ice8000
Henry Todd’s outfitter offers expeditions on Everest and Lhotse.
Ice8000.com

Shisha Pangma

Andrew Lock’s 14×8000ers grand final: Shisha Pangma + NoO2 Everest
Andrew Lock hopes to become the first Australian to complete the 14×8000ers list, by summiting Shisha Pangma. Andrew has previously reached Shisha’s central summit twice, but still he has to climb further up to the main, eastern summit.
After Shisha he’ll attempt a no-O2 ascent on Everest’s north side on his own.
andrew-lock.com

Amical Alpin
Herbert Rainer is leading a team launched by the Germany-based outfitter, starting on April 10th.
Amical.de

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss outfitter has announced a Shisha Pangma expedition in spring, 2009.
Kobler-partner.ch

Cho Oyu

Bo Belvedere Christensen
Danish Bo Belvedere Christensen is leading a team on Cho Oyu in spring, 2009. Last year, he guided a four-men group on Baruntse, eventually summiting together with two of his clients.
www.himalaya.dk

Amical Alpin
Thomas Merkel is leading a team launched by the Germany-based outfitter, starting on April 8th.
Amical.de

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss outfitter has announced a Cho Oyu expedition in spring, 2009.
Kobler-partner.ch

Himalaya Autumn 2008 expeditions :

EVEREST
Korean Park’s SW face expedition
Korean Park Young-seok is back for Everest’s SW face. In his first attempt last year, Park’s close friends Oh Hee-joon and Lee Hyeon-jo perished in an avalanche. Now the Korean 14×8000ers summiteer is back, leading a team of 11 climbers.
www.english.donga.com
Skydive Everest
After a successful skydive from 16,000ft at Shyanboche in May, High and Wild have received permit to hold the first ever Skydiving program in front of Mt Everest this October/November.
www.everestskydive.com
Kangchenjunga
“Vikings” Eriksson and Aamot’s sky-ski expedition
Swedish Fredrik Eriksson and Norwegian Jörgen Aamot hope to climb and ski down Kangchenjunga’s south-west face in the first Swedish/Norwegian ascent of the peak and the first ski descent of its (very steep) slopes ever. They plan to acclimatize in the area before launching a four-day summit push without supplementary oxygen or high altitude Sherpas.
www.fredrikericsson.com
Annapurna
Jean Troillet’s Annapurna South expedition
Swiss Jean Troillet is headed for the infamous Annapurna south face together with Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves “Blutch” Fredriksen, Kobi Reichen and Sébastien Devrient (camera).
http://nepal.troillet.ch
Dare to Dream Annapurna North expedition
American Everest Summiteers Tonya Riggs and Brad Clement are attempting Annapurna, by the French route on the north side. “Tentatively, we will be attempting the Dutch Rib route,” the team also stated.
www.daretodream2008.com
Makalu
House, Anderson & Prezelj for Makalu’s west face
Piolet d’Or winners Steve House, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj are setting their sights on Makalu’s difficult west face.
www.thecleanestline.com
Jesús Calleja
Spanish Jesús Calleja is climbing Makalu, assisted by 5 Sherpa and Emilio Valdés on camera.
http://blog.cuatro.com/desafioextremo/
Manaslu
Nives Meroi & Romano Benet
Teaming up with regular climbing mate Luca Vuerich, the Italian couple is back in Himalaya, this time for Manaslu.
www.nives.alpinizem.net
Edurne + Al Filo de lo Imposible Spanish Expedition
Once again teaming up with Al Filo de lo Imposible’s Antonio Perezgrueso, Ignacio Delgado, Esther Sabadell, Ferrán Latorre, Mikel Zabalza, Asier Izagirre, Alex Chicón and Juanjo Garra – Edurne Pasaban hopes Manaslu will become her 11th 8000er. Also Polish Kinga Baranowska (Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and Dhaulagiri) is joining this Al Filo permit.
http://edurnepasaban.desnivel.com/blogs
http://blogs.diariovasco.com/pasaban
www.kingabaranowska.com
Juanito Oiarzábal’s Alava expedition
The 22×8000ers summiteer is leading a bunch of homies from Alava to Manaslu; the Basque climbers’ original goal of Cho Oyu was scrubbed after the climbers were unable to get a climbing permit.
www.elcorreodigital.com
Yuri & Laura
Two time Everest summiteer, mexican Yuri Contreras is trying Manaslu with Laura Gonzalez del Castillo
www.yuricontreras.com
Serbian Manaslu expedition
Dragan Jacimovic is leading a large team on Manaslu. Members are Nina Adjanin, Dejan Apostolovic, Dragan Celikovic (Expedition Dr.), Aleksandar Rasin, Zoran Mitrovic, Muhamed Gafic, Miralem Husanovic, Zdenko “Veki” Veljacic, Zdenko Maric, Simona Pogac, Marko Salvic, Dragan Bulatovic, and Milan Radovic.
www.extremesummitteam.com
Stephan Kecks
Austrian Stephan Kecks is climbing Manaslu together with Wolfgang Bartl, Martin Sutterlüty and Josef Felder.
http://www.mountains2b.com/209-Aktuelles_News_Expeditionen-.htm
Richard Hidalgo
Peruvian Richard Hidalgo is attempting Manaslu in a preparatory climb for Everest next year.
http://www.ipd.gob.pe/andinismo_y_deportes_de_invierno
Rosa Fernández
Spanish Rosa Fernandez also switched from restricted Cho Oyu to Manaslu.
http://www.lne.es
Amical Alpin Manaslu 2008 expedition
Mathias Nössig is leading nine climbers from Germany, Austria, Czech Republic and Switzerland on Manaslu. The expedition has two high altitude Sherpas, but no supplementary O2.
www.amical.de
Project-Himalaya/Altitude Junkies
The two outfitters have joined forces for a Manaslu expedition led by double-Everest summiteer Phil Crampton. Also members are Guntis Brands, Valerie Parkinson and Stuart Smith, plus climbing Sherpas Tarki Sherpa and Pasang Gombu Sherpa.
www.altitudejunkies.com
www.project-himalaya.com
Jagged Globe
Jagged Globe too have a group on Manaslu instead of Cho Oyu this year.
www.jagged-globe.co.uk
Kobler
The Swiss outfitter has launched a Manaslu expedition led by Reiner Taglinger.
www.kobler-partner.ch
Cho Oyu
Spanish and Italian Cho Oyu expeditions
Spanish Isabel Asensio, Vanesa Ortega, Nicolás Durán Jiménez and Arturo Díaz Herrero, from Spain’s Extremadura region, are attempting Cho Oyu via its normal route. Italian Nicola Campani, Daniele Corsini, Fabrizio Silvetti, and Fausto Sassatelli claim they will climb Cho Oyu’s normal route in alpine style and without O2.
Spanish website
Italian website
Field Touring Alpine Cho Oyu 2008 expedition
Leader Stu Remensnyder and Assistant Guide Ben Kane are leading Kit Dickson, Justin Moody, Guy Higgott, Guy Leveille, Italo Mazza, Lyngve Skrede, Erik Haugen, Ian Hibbert, Antonin Calzarossa, and Rob Baker. BC manager Ryan Castel; climbing Sherpas Rai “Tsering” Parsu Ram and Lakhpa Sherpa
www.fieldtouring.com
IMG
International Mountain Guides have two climbing permits for Cho Oyu: Team one is led by Olivia Cussen, plus two private guides; Ben Kurdt and John Race. Members are David Rice, John Dahlem, Ryan Dahlem, Monica Rimai, Hamish Walton, Vladimir Grechka, and Robert Meyer. Team 2 is led by Michael Hamill. Members are Christian Bergum, Louis Carstens, Theodore Fairhurst, Nathan Dolbeare, Alfred Schumer, Paul Garry, Michael Chapman and Karel Masek.
www.mountainguides.com
Summit Climb
Owner Dan Mazur is leading the Summit Clima expedition on Cho Oyu. The large team comprises a second guide (Finnish Sam Mansikka), three leaders-in-training (Argentinean Max Kausch, a nd Americans Erik Petersen and Michiel Zuidweg), and 19 international members: Squash Falconer, Suzy Madge and David Fairweather from UK; Finnish Marko Aho, Heikki Kallio, Pertti Kalliola, Mikko Valanne and Raimo Koponen; Americans Kurt Blair, Ron Cloud, Gary Kellund, John Pando, Vik Sahney and Keith Spencer; Australian Tom Clarke and Gavin Turner; Dutch Willem Leendertse; Italian Federico Rota, and Polish Krzysztof Wasowski.
www.summitclimb.com
Himex
Himalayan Experience announces a Cho Oyu expedition to take place from Aug 28 to Oct 07. Confirmation and updates are still expected.
www.himex.com

Karakoram Summer 2008 expeditions :

** Summer 2008 Karakoram expedition list.

Himalaya spring 2008 expeditions :

EVEREST LHOTSE TRAVERSE

Kazakh traverse Lhotse – Everest

Lhotse is the final mountain in the Kazakh National Team 14, 8000ers project

EVEREST SOUTH

The Coelhos

Brazilian Paulo and Helena Coelho are doing their 12th attempt on Everest, sticking to their climbing principles: No oxygen, no high-altitude sherpas.

Coldfeat Expeditions

www.coldfeat.co.uk
Kenton Cool will lead Ranulph Fiennes

Singapore Women’s Everest Expedition

www.womenoneverest.com
Leader: Jane Lee

First Inclusive Women Sagarmatha Expedition (FIWSE)

10 Nepali women will try Everest
www.longtail.info/fiwse/
Leader: Susmita Maskey

One Man’s Mountain – Stuart Baker-Brown for Schizophrenia

www.onemansmountain.com

Mallory family

www.malloryexpedition.com/
Canadian family will try Everest with Summit Climb

77 year old

www.mteverest2008.org.np
Min Bahadur Sherchan

ECO Everest

www.ecoeverest.net.np
Leader: Dawa Steven Sherpa

Helmut Linzbichler

Check Helmut’s bio here
http://www.marathonmaniacs.com/MI/HelmutLinzbichler.htm

Irish Everest Expedition 2008

www.everest2008.ie
Graham Kinch & Ian Taylor

Tim Warren

www.drtimwarren.com
Tim returns – part of AA team

James Balfour

www.james-on-everest.com

No Guts Know Glory

www.nogutsknowglory.com
Rob Hill

Alaskan Granite Expedition

www.alaskangranite.com
Alec Turner

Project Everest

Al Hancock is back from 2007
www.projecteverest07.com

7summits Denmark

www.7-summits.dk/
Henrik Kristiansen and Soren Smidt will try a new 7 summit speed record.

Eugen Constant

www.everest2008.fr
Part of Brice expedition

Cordoba Everest

www.cordobaeverest.com

Adventure Peaks

www.adventurepeaks.com

IMG

Leader: Mark Tucker
www.mountainguides.com

Alpine Ascents

www.alpineascents.com

Adventure Consultants

www.adventureconsultants.co.nz

Peak Freaks

Tim Rippel
www.peakfreaks.com

Summit Climb

www.summitclimb.com
Leader: Arnold Coster

Mountain Trip

www.mountaintrip.com
Leader: Ryan Campbell

Mountain Madness

www.mountainmadness.com
Leader: Willie Benegas

Jagged Globe

www.jagged-globe.co.uk
Leader: David Hamilton

Kobler & Parner

www.kobler-partner.ch

Leader: Richi Bolt

Gavin Bate

www.adventurealternative.com

ICE 8000

www.ice8000.com
Henry Todd

EVEREST NORTH

Olympic Flame Expedition

http://www.tibetanolympics.com/

Marc Batard – no oxygen speed attempt

http://www.trekonline.com/

Joby Ogwyn speed ascent

Leader: Joby Ogwyn

Daniela Teixeira

No sherpas – no oxyen

Return to Everest 2008

Lincoln Hall rescuers Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne and Dan Mazur are coming
back
www.andrewbrash.com

Boris Koshunov, 73

7-summit club
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=16953

Yuichiro Miura, 74

www.snowdolphins.com

Lee Farmer

www.leefarmer.co.uk

Alan Arnette

www.alanarnette.com

Lynne and Noel Hanna Everest 2008

www.ulstercancer.org/events/everest.asp
Leader: Noel Hanna

Everest Finnish Expedition

www.everest.fi
Leader: Tomi Myllys

Spanish Cordoba expedition

www.cordobaeverest.com

Rodrigo Raineri, Brazil

Climb Of Hope

www.climbofhope.com
Robby Kojetin

Climb 4 life

www.climb4life.co.uk
Ian Rogers

David Tait – no oxygen/with Himex

www.davidtait.com

Everest North Summit Climb

www.summitclimb.com
Leader: Dan Mazur

Everest 7summit club

www.7summits-club.com
Leader: Alexander Abramov

Everest DCXP 2008

www.dcxp.com
Leader: Duncan Chessell

Project-Himalaya

www.project-himalaya.com
Leader: Jamie McGuinness

Himex

www.himex.com
Leader: Russell Brice

MANASLU

Chilean Manaslu Expedition

www.manaslu.cl
Leader: Abdo Fernández

MAKALU

British Armed Services North/South

British team will split up and attacking Makalu from South East Ridge and
North side simoultaneously.
www.makalu2008.org

Brasilian Makalu Expedition

www.niclevicz.com.b
Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Gustavo Burda

Joao Garcia

Joao is planning Makalu for the spring and Manaslu for autumn

Makalu West Face

Vince Anderson, Steve House, and Marko Prezelj

Andrew Lock

www.andrew-lock.com
Two 8000ers to go.

French Makalu Expedition

www.makalu-2008.com
10 mountaineers trying the NE Face in the tracks of Jean Franco 1955.

DHAULAGIRI

International Expedition

Artur Hayzer, Ryszard Pawlowski (10 8000ers), Robert Szymczak, Bogdan
Kaszycki, Andris Malasevskis
www.himountain.pl

Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Expedition 2008

www.radekjaros.cz
Radek Jaros and Zdenek Hruby

Himalaia Maestrat

www.himalaiamaestrat.org

Ivan Vallejo

www.ivanvallejo.com

SHISHA PANGMA

Andrew Lock

www.andrew-lock.com
Two 8000ers to go

ANNAPURNA

Inaki Ochoa

www.navarra8000.com

Piotr Pustelnik, Morawski and Hamor

http://www.himountain.pl
Last 8000er

Dare to Dream 2008

www.daretodream2008.com
Tonya Riggs, Brad Clement

Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Expedition 2008

http://www.radekjaros.cz/en/?p=34
Radek Jaros and Zdenek Hruby

Himalaya autumn 2007 expeditions :

a/ Everest South East Ridge – Nepal – 8848m :
- “The Unlimited of Thai Spirit” Everest fall 2007 expedition

b/ Makalu – Nepal – 8485m :
- Italians Nives & Romano for their 11th 8000er
Nives’ website (Italian): www.nives.alpinizem.net
- Nepalese Serap Jangbu Sherpa for the ‘Big Black’
Serap’s website: www.serapjangbu.com

c/ Dhaulagiri – Nepal – 8167m :
- Dutch Dhaulagiri Expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Expedition’s website: www.7thsummit.nl
- Spanish Ricardo Valencia and Santiago Sagaste Tribute expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Expedition’s website (Spanish): www.trekkingdhaulagiri.com
- International Kobler & Partner Dhaulagiri expedition
Kobler & Parter’s website(German): www.kobler-partner.ch

d/ Manaslu – Nepal – 8163m :
- Canadian/International Manaslu expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Expedition’s blog: www.manaslu2007.blogspot.com
- International Kobler & Partner Manaslu expedition
Kobler & Partner’s website (German): www.kobler-partner.ch

e/ Shisha Pangma – Nepal – 8027m :
- Australian Andrew Lock: Back to Shisha Pangma
Andrew’s website: www.andrew-lock.com
Andrew’s dispatches: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock
- Spanish Al Filo de lo Imposible team: Edurne for her 10th – Vallejo and Oiarzabal for a second Shisha summit
Edurne’s website (Spanish): www.edurnepasaban.net
Ivan’s website (Spanish): www.ivanvallejo.com
- Spanish Himalaya 2007 Cho Oyu/Shisha Pangma double-header /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Expedition’s website (Spanish): www.arabakoespedizioa.com
- Korean Daejeon A.F. Shisha Pangma South Face Expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
- American Nicholas Rice’s Xpedition 8000 /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Nicholas Rice’s Website: www.nickrice.us
- Slovak Shisha Pangma Expedition
- International Dream Shisha Pangma Expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
- International Project-Himalaya Shisha Pangma Skills Expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Project-Himalaya’s website: www.project-himalaya.com
- International SummitClimb Shisha Pangma expedition
SummitClimb’s website: www.summitclimb.com

f/ Cho Oyu – Tibet – 8188m :
- Singapore Women on Everest – Cho Oyu training /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Expedition’s website: www.womenoneverest.com
Expedition’s dispatches: humanedgetech.com/expedition/swe1
- Spanish Himalaya 2007 Cho Oyu/Shisha Pangma double-header /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Expedition’s website (Spanish): www.arabakoespedizioa.com
- Croatian Female Cho Oyu Expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
- Polish Cho Oyu Expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Pawel Jerzy Sokolowski is leading fellow Polish climbers Tadeusz Andrzej Henzel, Fafal Lucjan Pieta, Dominik Ziembowicz, Kamil Dawid Gabarski, and Marek Boguslaw Chamielec on Cho Oyu.
- Spanish Cho Oyu expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
- International Cho Oyu expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
- Dream Cho Oyu expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
- Friendship Cho Oyu Expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
- International Amical Alpine expedition
Amical’s website (German): www.amical.de
- International Alpine Ascents Cho Oyu expedition — Danielle’s double-header /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Alpine Ascents’ website: www.alpineascents.com
- International Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu 2007 /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
AC’s website: www.adventureconsultants.co.nz
- International Field Touring Alpine Cho Oyu Expedition /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
FTA’s website: www.fieldtouring.com
- USA Alpenglow Cho Oyu Expedition (HiMex) /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Alpenglow’s website: www.alpenglowexpeditions.com
- International Mountain Guides (IMG) Cho Oyu expedition
IMG’s website: www.mountainguides.com
- International Mountain Madness Cho Oyu expedition
Mountain Madness’ website: www.mountainmadness.com
- International 7-Summits Club Cho Oyu Expedition
Expedition’s website: www.7summits-club.com
- International Jagged-Globe Cho Oyu Expedition
Expedition’s website: www.jagged-globe.co.uk
- Kari Kobler & Partner Cho Oyu expedition
KObler & Partner’s website (German):www.kobler-partner.ch
- International SummitClimb Cho Oyu Expedition
SummitClimb’s website: www.summitclimb.com
- Ice8000
Expedition’s website: www.ice8000.com
g/ Jannu – Nepal – 7710m
- Russian Valeri Babanov for Jannu’s north face /EXPEDITION ONGOING/
Babanov’s website: www.babanov.com

expedition, Expedition List, Himalayas, Karakoram | |

KARAKORAM.

Posted by himalman On 6/02/2009 07:29:00 am 0 comments

1.

2.

Karakoram, Karakorum, Mountain | |

Winter Broad Peak timeline: No winners yet in a tough game

Posted by himalman On 12/18/2008 09:38:00 am 1 comments

ExWeb special - Winter Broad Peak timeline:
No winners yet in a tough game

(K2Climb.net/MountEverest.net) Up until now only 8 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed. Over the previous weeks ExWeb have run debriefs on all the first winter ascents, and also all winter, or near winter, summits in Himalaya.

But what about winter attempts on the peaks ahead? Last week Simone Moro offered winter history for Makalu; while ExWeb’s contributor Rodrigo Granzotto Peron dodged flooding and power outages in his home town of Brazil for a skinny on the remarkably few winter attempts on Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat (check in for NP tomorrow).

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak - 2008/09 - route

Broad Peak Winter History
By Rodrigo Granzotto Peron

For two weeks in the winter of 1983, Andrzej Zawada and Jacques Olek researched the Baltoro Glacier; checking the weather and routes on Broad Peak and both Gasherbrums for future expeditions. Their conclusion was that “winter conditions were much more severe than in the Everest region.”

Polish climbers breaking trail

Five years later, in February 1988 Polish Maciej Berbeka (Manaslu winter 84, Cho Oyu winter 85) arrived for the first winter attempt on Broad Peak. It became the most successful winter climb on Falchan Kangri yet.

Berbeka reached the Foresummit by the normal route one month later. Very strong winds blowing from the real summit prevented him to do the first winter ascent of an 8000er in Pakistan.

Here come the Spaniards

In 2003 Spanish Juanito Oiarzabal arrived with a strong team: Juan Vallejo, Mikel Zabalza, Losu Bereziartu and Italian Silvio Mondinelli. They reached 6500m on the normal route, but after the destruction of Camp II (February 9th) and Camp I (February 20th), they headed home without summit.

(Ed note: the Spanish team reportedly said that just to get to BC was a long, frozen walk from hell.)

Latest attempts: another Italian against all odds

Four years later, in 2007 Simone Moro decided to try his luck, teaming up with Pakistan Shaheen Baig, again on the normal route. Progress was very slow as a result of high winds and incredible amount of snow on the route. The expedition was called off after reaching 6800 meters.

With valuable experience bagged, Simone Moro was back already the next year, in 2008 with Pakistan climbers Shaheen Baig and Quadrat Ali. But logistics wrecked the schedule right from the start.

The three climbers arrived BC very late (February 2nd). According to Simone, “this expedition is a charade of inefficiency, bad luck and unhelpful people.” Still, the mountaineers climbed the normal route until 7800 meters before calling the expedition off due to high winds in early March.

* see :

- Ice Warriors not give up - HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak - 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak - 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- Don Bowie’s website

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki - Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over - http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories - and more! - at ExplorersWeb.com

*** oryginal post by : - http://himalman.wordpress.com/

Artur Hajzer, Broad Peak, Climbers, HiMountain, Ice Warriors, Karakoram, Krzysztof Wielicki, Maciej Berbeka, Pakistan, Polish climbers, Simone Moro, travel, winter expedition, winter manifesto | |

Ice Warriors not give up - HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak - 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak. /Version english and

Posted by himalman On 12/12/2008 07:02:00 am 0 comments

“Ice Warriors” not give up.
HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak - 2008/09.

The eighties are long gone but a warrior’s soul never dies: The tough bunch of climbers who wrote the coolest pages of mountaineering history 20 years back are still kicking - and more. In only a few weeks, they will take on any mountaineer’s ultimate nightmare: A winter climb on a Pakistan 8000er.
Not even Messner could beat them: Polish climbers have all the first winter ascents on Himalayan 8000ers.

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki :

The golden decade of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, besides the unquestionable personal accomplishments of Jurek Kukuczka, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Wojtek Kurtyka and others, also saw winter achievements that were a team rather than individual success. It was particularly noticeable during the winter expeditions how the whole team worked for the result. In Winter it is difficult to achieve success without teamwork. Climbing in the Alps or the Tatras in wintertime is no longer surprising to anyone: it was the natural course of things, an attempt to raise the challenge without raising the altitude. The same had to occur in high mountains too.And it’s great that it was achieved by Poles. Jurek Werteresiewicz drew up a programme, Andrzej Zawada implemented it and many of us put it into practice, often successfully but there were failures as well.In recent years a total withdrawal from wintertime climbing could be observed in the Tatras, the Alps as well as the Himalayas…..

… We were successful in high mountain winter explorations. After all, half of fourteen 8000-metre peaks were climbed by Poles, with in just eight years (1980-1988) to boot. Six unconquered peaks are waiting for us, but volunteers are nowhere to be seen. Let the nickname “Ice Warriors”, given us by Englishmen, be inscribed in the history of Himalayan climbing for ever.

Today started next winter expedition -

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak - 2008/09.

trasa-zima-broad-peak

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team : Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie from Canada.

Artur Hajzer is a Polish mountaineer best known for the first winter ascent of Annapurna on February 3, 1987 together with Jerzy Kukuczka. He was member of latest winter expedition - 2006/07 Winter Nanga Parbat!

Upcoming winter expeditions on 8000es

Artur Hajzer will lead Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie for a winter attempton Broad Peak; Jacek Teler will lead a team on Nanga Parbat. Simone Moro will attempt Makalu, teaming up with Denis Urubko. Pavel Krupièka, Jan Krabec and Milan Wlasák will atempt Manaslu.

* see :

- Don Bowie’s website

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki - Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over - http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Lodowi wojownicy nie dają za wygraną.
HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09

Rusza kolejna polska zimowa wyprawa na ośmiotysięcznik — „HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09”. Celem wyprawy jest pierwsze w historii zimowe wejście na 12-ty szczyt świata Broad Peak (8051 m) w Karakorum (Pakistan).

Himalaizm zimowy to iście polska specjalizacja. Mimo dużej ilości prób podejmowanych przez najlepszych alpinistów z całego świata, tylko Polacy (wyjątkiem jest Włoch Simone Moro, który zdobył Shisha Pangma razem z Piotrem Morawskim - Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/) stawali do tej pory na ośmiotysięcznikach zimą (zdobyli już osiem). Jak pisał Krzysztof Wielicki w swoim słynnym Manifeście… “Niech przydomek ” Ice Warriors”, nadany nam przez Anglików, na stałe zapisze się w historii himalaizmu.” Ostatnia zimowa próba to Winter Nanga Parbat - zimowa wyprawa Wielickiego z 2007r ; niestety wyprawa nie zakończyła się sukcesem , himalaistów pokonała pogoda.

Sześć spośród czternastu ośmiotysięczników pozostaje niezdobytych, z tego pięć w Pakistanie i jeden w Nepalu.

trasa-zima-broad-peak

Trasa wyprawy zimowej na Broad Peak 2008/09

Wspomniany Simone Moro dwukrotnie próbował zmierzyć się zimą z Broad Peakiem, za każdym razem bezskutecznie. Co znamienne, żaden spośród pięciu pakistańskich ośmiotysięczników (cztery w Karakorum oraz Nanga Parbat) nie został do tej pory zdobyty zimą. O krok od wejścia na główny wierzchołek Broad Peaku zimą był Maciej Berbeka. Osiągnął on przedwierzchołek, tzw. Rocky Summit (8035 m), który jest niższy od wierzchołka głównego zaledwie o 16 metrów, ale oddalony od niego o godzinę wspinaczki.

martyna-wojciechowska-artur-hajzer-i-robert-szymczak-new

W przeddzień odlotu wyprawy, 8 grudnia 2008, w warszawskim Centrum Olimpijskim odbyła się konferencja prasowa uczestników wyprawy, którą prowadziła zdobywczyni Everestu, redaktor naczelna National Geographic Polska, Martyna Wojciechowska.

W wyprawie uczestniczy trzech himalaistów: Artur Hajzer — kierownik, Robert Szymczak i Don Bowie z Kanady. Wspomagani będą przez dwu tragarzy wysokościowych.

don-bowie

Don Bowie.

Sprzęt i żywność wyprawy, w sumie 86 ładunków, zostały już dostarczone do podnóża góry na lodowcu Godwin Austen i oczekują w miejscu, gdzie stanie baza wyprawy. Ładunki przetransportowano już 15 października, ponieważ — jeżeli wierzyć zapewnieniom pakistańskiej agencji — w okresie zimowym nie jest możliwe, aby w tamtym rejonie przeszła karawana tragarzy. Uczestnicy wraz ze sprzętem osobistym i ładunkami uzupełniającymi mają dolecieć do bazy helikopterem między 19 a 21 grudnia 2008 roku.

* strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over - http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki - Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/