Yesterday (February 17, 1980) was the 30th anniversary of the first-ever summit of Mount Everest in the Winter season.

Two Polish mountaineers, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy, reached the top of the world’s highest peak in 1980, going down in history as the first people to get there in winter.Over the last 30 years, seven people have so far completed the challenge in winter time, however, in Summer, the journey is easier, so 3,500 have managed to summit Everest.

The 20-strong group which initially set off for the mountain was whittled down to two – the final leg of the journey upwards took seven hours, said Leszek Cichy to Polish Radio.
There isn’t much snow in the Himalayas in winter, as it is blown off by heavy wind. Mount Everest is fortified against mountaineers with large slabs of ice, strong winds and frost. The temperatures in tents at night dropped to minus 40˚C.

“We were high up on the ridge, the nearest people were several hours walking distance away from us. The only thing that allows us to keep in touch was radio. The wind was strong. And, as we were descending, dusk set in and snow from western face blew in the air. And we found ourselves on the border between what is real and unreal, on the border between shadow and the sun, night and day, and also, in a way, between life and death,” Cichy said, referring to the last stages of the ascent.
* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

* Related Links :

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Krzysztof Wielicki the famous Polish climber./ Version polish and english /

- Leszek Cichy the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Previous story :

- Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

- The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Updated: Jan 25, 2010
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes

Check previous Everest expeditions

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EVEREST TRAVERSES

Gavin Turner double traverse
American Gavin Turner will attempt a world first: Everest double traverse, from Nepal to Tibet and back, via Everest summit.

Gavin has been training for the undertaking during the last two years. He climbed Cho Oyu (with O2 from C3) and returned all the way back to ABC on summit day. In Washington, he climbed Rainier 7 times to the summit, including 4 solo ascents.
www.everestdoubletraverse.org

Andrew Lock Everet, take 3 Tibet/Nepal No-O2 traverse
After completing the 14×8000ers quest on Shisha Pangma last fall, Australian Andrew Lock aims for excellence by summiting Everest without O2 from Tibet and then traverse to Nepal. Andrew has summited Everest twice before, both times with supplementary Oxygen.
www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock

EVEREST SOUTH

Nobukazu Kuriki No-O2 ascent
After a failed attempt last year, Japanaese Nobukazu Kuriki plans to give Everest another shot this spring without O2.
www.plus-blog.spor tsnavi.com/bt_nobukazu2

Argentinean bicentennial expedition
The expedition goal is to summit Everest by May 2010, exactly 200 years after Argentina’s May Revolution.

All team members are Bariloche residents trained in the Andes. Climbers are Ramon Chiocconi, Alvar Puente, Marcelo Topo Deza, Carlos Charly Galosi and Leonardo Cuny Proverbio.

Brazil-Guatemala expedition
Manoel Morgado (BRA) with Andrea Cardona (GUAT) who will attempt the first Central American lady summit of Everest.
wwww.manoelmorgado.com.br

Waldemar Niclevicz’s Brazilian expedition
Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Gustavo Burda will guide climbers to the summit.

* update (February 1, 2010) Meanwhile, Brazilian Waldemar Niklevicz updated ExWeb that his planned Everest expedition has been postponed for 2011.
www.niclevicz.com.br

Brad Jackson and Sandy Hoby Australian Everest 2010 Expedition
After a failed attempt in 2008 as members in Altitude Junkies’ team, Australians Brad and Sandy are ready for a second round.
www.everest2010.com.au

Ta Loeffler Mountain of Learning
After a failed attempt in 2007, Ta of Newfoundland is back to Everest, climbing again from its south side. Ta hopes to bag Everest and Vinson in order to complete the 7 Summits quest.
www.taloeffler.com

Anne-Mari Hyrylinen – Skyclimbers Finnish expedition
The team’s mission is to help Anne-Mari Hyrylinen to become the first Finnish female Everest summiteer. The team will climb via the South Col route.
www.skyclimbers.com

Altitude Junkies
After a large number of expeditions in Tibet, leader Phil Crampton got a taste of Everest south side last year and goes for more this spring as leader of a fully-supported expedition.
www.altitudejunkies.com

Dawa Steven Eco Everest expedition 2010
Dawa Steven and his Eco Everest Expedition plan clean the peak up to 8000 m and above.

The plan this year is to bring down 1000 kgs of trash from above Camp 2 and 6000 kgs from Camp 2 and below.
www.asian-trekking.com

Peak Freaks
Tim Rippel’s outfit will return to Everest south side.
www.peakfreaks.com

Alpine Ascents International
The Everest regulars are back for another year.
www.alpineascents.com

Adventure Consultants
Another regular Everest commercial outfit back for more.
www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Everest

Explore Your Planet
Fresh from Antarctica, Scott Woolums is expected back on Everest south side this spring, leading a fully-supported expedition.
exploreyourplanet2009.blogspot.com/

RMI guides
Everest mega-summiteer Dave Hahn (the non-Sherpa climber with most Everest summits bagged) is back for more, leading RMI’s 2010 expedition.
www.rmiguides.com

IMG
Eric Simonson’s International Mountain Guides are back for Everest and Lhotse.
www.mountainguides.com

Mountain Madness
Ready to bag his 10th Everest summit, Willie Benegas will lead for MM as usual.
www.mountainmadness.com

Summit Climb
Dan Mazur is appointing Arnold Coster as leader on Everest south side. The US-based company is also launching teams on Everest north side and Lhotse.
www.summitclimb.com

Expedition Hanesbrands
Canadian Jamie Clarke aims for his second Everest summit.
climbwithus.com

Jagged Globe
Tim Calder will lead J-Gs team on Everests South Col route. The UK-based outfitter is also launching a team on the peak’s north side. www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Dream Guides
Fully-supported expedition led by 6-time Everest summiteer British Kenton Cool and Rob Casserley.
www.dreamguides.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. www.kobler-partner.ch

Costa Rica “David’s Braves” expedition
A Christian group known as Los Valientes de David (David’s Braves) hope to climb Everest for Jesus. Led by Enmanuel Menendez.
http://esparzacostarica.blogspot.com

HimEx
Of Discovery fame and Nangpa La/David Sharp infame, Russell Brice returns to Everest south side this year.
www.himex.com

EVEREST NORTH

Gerlinde & Ralf
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and husband Ralf Dujmovits will return to Everest north face for an oxygen-less attempt. Ralf has climbed all 14, 8000ers (Everest with O2), Gerlinde has Everest and K2 left.
www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at
www.amical.de

Alfredo Garcia no O2 ascent
Spanish Alfredo Garcia (28) will attempt Everest with Pedro Garcia and Martin Corrales. Garcia previously summited Gasherbrum II (2006), Cho Oyu (2007) and Broad Peak (2008).

The team will carry two emergency canisters but climb without O2.
www.everest2010.es

Jordan Romero Everest at 13

Together with his father Paul and Karen Lundgren; Big Bear Lake resident Jordan Romero hopes to summit Everest at the ripe age of 13.
www.jordanromero.com

Project-Himalaya
Jamie McGuinness is back in Tibet, leading a fully-supplied expedition.
www.project-himalaya.com

7Summits-Club
Alex Abramov and his 7Summit-Club team will be back to their usual Everest playground: the north side.
www.7summits-club.com

Adventure Peaks
The UK-based outfitter will also be climbing from the north side.
www.adventurepeaks.com

SummitClimb
Dan Mazur will lead a team on Big E’s north side.
www.summitclimb.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, plus Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Jagged-Globe
The British outfitter is guiding both sides.
www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Lhotse

Meagan McGrath back for more

After her solo, partial Antarctica ski this winter (Patriot Hills-South Pole), Canuck Aerospace Engineer Meagan McGrath will lead a trekking group to Everests BC and then climb Lhotse, before attempting K2 in summer.
www.meaganmcgrathadventurer.com

Marco Confortola+K2 Sherpa rescuer (tentative)
2008 K2 survivor Marco Confortola plans to climb Lhotse with one of the Sherpas who saved his life.
www.marcoconfortola.it

SummitClimb
SummitClimb’s Everest leader Arnold Coster will also guide a group attempting Lhotse.
summitclimb.com

IMG
Also IMG will guide both Everest and Lhotse.
gwww.mountainguides.com

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, plus Lhotse and Makalu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Annapurna double-headers

Edurne Pasabans ultimate double-header for the 14×8000ers
I’m definitely’ going to Annapurna in spring, but I’m also considering another attempt (my fifth) on Shisha Pangma during the same season, Edurne Pasaban told media.

Leading a climbing-filming expedition by Al Filo de lo Imposible (on the edge of the impossible) Spanish TV documentary series; Edurne teams up with regular partners Alex Chicon, Asier Izaguirre and cameraman Ferran Latorre.
www.edurnepasaban.net
www.endesayedurnepasaban.com
blogs.rtve.es/alfilo/posts

Jae-Soo Kim’s Kolon Sports South Korean expediton
Partner of the late MI-Sun Go, 10×8000ers summiteer Jae-Soo Kim is continuing her (and his own) 14×8000er project.

S.Korea Expressway Corporation Team
Mi-Gon Kim, Hong-Bin Kim are heading to Annapurna after Manaslu.

S. Korea’s BuSan Dynamic Team
Chang-Ho Kim is climbing Annapurna after a preparatory climb on a another (yet unconfirmed) 8000er.

Annapurna

Oh Eun-Sun: the final
Racing faster than anyone for the 14×8000ers, South Korean Oh Eun Sun chain-climbed Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum I in just four months before dangerous conditions on Annapurna prevented her from completing her record quest. Now she is back and ready to finish the task, teaming up with her two regular Sherpas.
oes.blackyak.co.kr

Piotr Pustelnik: The Knight’s comeback
The Himalayan Knight is back to face his last 8000er for the fifth time.

Piort is dedicating the climb to long-time friend and climbing mate Piotr Morawski, perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri last year. Morawski’s death put an end to the legendary “Three Peters” (Pustelnik, Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor) who had accomplished some of the foremost Himalaya expeditions in later years.
This time, Piotr is putting together a team of seasoned Himalaya climbers, including Russian 11×8000er summiteer Serguey Bogomolov.
www.trekandmore.pl
himalman.wordpress.com

Joao Garcia for his final 8000er
Joao Garcia will attempt to become the first Portuguese 14×8000er summiteer on Annapurna.
www.joaogarcia.com

Young-Seok Park’s south face expedition
Following a new route on Everest SW face last year, South Korean 14×8000er summiteer Young-Seok Park now aims for Anna’s mighty south face.
www.parkyoungseok.com

Carlos Pauner for his “tough 9th”
With eight 8000ers bagged, Spanish Carlos Pauner hit a series of glitches on Shisha Pangma and Manaslu last year, now hoping for vindication on Annapurna.
www.carlospauner.com

Kangchenjunga

Nicholas Rice
American Nick Rice plans to give Kangchenjunga a shot, most likely by the British Route on the south face, and then head back to Pakistan for his second attempt on K2.
www.nickrice.us

Makalu

Field Touring Alpine – led by Fabrizio Zangrilli
American mountain guide Fabrizio Zangrilli will lead Australian/US outfitter Field Touring Alpine’s first expedition on Makalu.
www.fieldtouring.com
fabriziozangrilliguiding.blogspot.com

British Service SE Ridge expedition
UK military plan a second attempt on Makalu South East Ridge with team of 8 climbers drawn from across the 3 services.
raf.mod.uk

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss expedition outfitter offers expeditions on both sides of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.
www.kobler-partner.ch

Dhaulagiri

Chilean Expedicin Bicentenario Dhaulagiri
Ernesto Olivares will lead Juan Andres Covarrubias Alcalde, Juan Manuel Santa Cruz Campaa, Andre Claro Gubbins, Martin Riesco Wachholtz, Marcelo Grifferos Caceres and Francisco Larrain Amuntegui.
www.dhaulagiri2010.cl

Manaslu

Carlos Soria for his 9th 8000er at 71
Veteran Spanish climber Carlos Soria hopes to tick off his Himalaya no 9 at age 71.
http://www.carlossoriaalpinista.com

Shisha Pangma

Amical Alpin

Herbert Wold if appointed leader on Amical’s commercial expedition.
Amical.de

Cho Oyu

SummitClimb
Dan Mazur’s American outfit will hit Cho Oyu this spring.
summitclimb.com

Adventure Peaks
UK-based outfit AP will be there as well.
www.adventurepeaks.com

Amical Alpin
The Germany-based outfit will be led by Andreas Sippel.
Amical.de

Kari Kobler & Partner
The Swiss outfit has also announced a Cho Oyu expedition in spring, 2009.
Kobler-partner.ch

* * Related Links :

- 2010 climbing season kick-off: Everest and Himalaya list of expeditions!

- Everest 2010: No Everest Traverses in 2010.

- Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Previous story :

- The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Author : Kraig Becker

The Outpost, the official blog of Outdoorzy.com, has an interesting post up January 22, 2010 that examines the costs of climbing the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on all seven continents.

Seven Summits map (click to enlarge).

The article looks at several broad categories and gives a good estimate of what each of them costs. For instance, they say that it’ll set you back roughly $1170 for training to ensure you know what you’re doing on those mountains, and another $9200 in airfare just to fly to the various countries that is home to one of these mountains. Throw in another $1500 for “incidentals”, which covers such things as visas and passports, and things start to add up quickly.

Of course, the largest category is for the guide services necessary to climb the 7 (+1) mountains. The Outpost says that you can expect to pay between $105,850 – $169,900 on guides depending on who you choose to go with. They do note that this is an area that can be highly customized, and that’s why there is such a large variance in the cost. Guide services are not all created equal, and sometimes you get what you pay for. Besides, do you really want to go cut-rate on this kind of trip?

The one category that I might disagree with their estimate on is gear, which they say will cost you $2000. In my opinion that is on the very low side, as I’ve seen down suits and thermal boots for Everest that will cost you that much alone. But I suppose, that this is, once again, an area that can really vary greatly, and you do indeed get what you pay for here as well.

So what’s the bottom line? Outdoorzy says that the grand total of making a Seven Summits bid is about $119,720 – $183,870. That doesn’t include the time you’ll need to get off work, as most of us aren’t sponsored climbers either.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Richard “Dick” Bass is the owner of Snowbird Ski Resort in Utah and the first man to climb the “Seven Summits.”

* Related Links : - Seven Summits.

- Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska. /Version english and polish/

- Climb Mt. Vinson - highest peak in Antarctica.

- Climb Aconcagua - one of the Seven Summits list. /Version english and polish/

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Previous story :

- The Deadly Side of Mt. Everest.

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Author: Alan Arnette.

To start any article on climbing deaths, it must be said that every death is devastating to family and friends and should never be taken lightly. I have helped bury climbing partners on high peaks and never wish that experience on anyone.

Sadly, mountaineering often receives mainstream media attention only when someone dies and especially on Everest. This was never more true than during the 1996 season that saw 8 people killed in a storm and then in 2006 when another 12 died while climbing. According to Eberhard Jurgalski’s 8000ers.com website, there have been about 4,024 summits since 1922 with 218 deaths or a 5.4% fatality rate.

Since 1990, the deaths have dropped to 4.4% due to better gear, weather forecasting and more rescue resources available, ironically, due to more climbers on the mountain. In 2009, about 281 people made it from the south and 60 from the north. There were 5 deaths. A record 500 people summited in 2007 evenly split between both sides, again with 5 deaths.

I wanted to examine the true statistics behind Everest in the past decade and looked to 8000ers.com for some facts. Based on his tables, the north side fatality rate is more than 2:1 over the south with falls, altitude issues and exhaustion noted as the primary reasons. The difference is even more extreme when the deaths of 9 south side Sherpas are taken from the total, making the ratio of “member or client” climber deaths from north to south 8:1. Here is the summary:

Reason	North Ridge Route	South Col Route	Other Routes
Fall	7	3	1
Altitude	8	2	1
Exhaustion	7	1	1
Unknown	5	1	1
Avalanche	0	3	2
Crevasse	0	4	0
Exposure	4	0	0
Heart	1	1	0
	32	15	6

That the north side death rate is higher is not a big surprise. The north is traditionally considered slightly more dangerous given the exposure to the cold and harsh winds plus the technical nature of the Steps and exposed rock on the summit ridge.

Due to lower costs, more independent climbers are on the north thus sometimes finding themselves alone in the event of a problem. Also, it seems that more climbers do not use supplemental oxygen on the north than on the south which also can accelerate altitude issues especially in the harshest of conditions.

However, there is no strong correlation between deaths of independent climbers vs climbers on commercial expeditions. Finally, with the exception of 2005 through 2007, the south has had significantly more climbers thus more rescue resources in the event of a problem. Traditionally, commercial operators focused on the south thus fielding more Sherpas.

As far as nationalities, the Nepalese Sherpas suffer the most with 10 of the 53 deaths this decade almost all on the south side from falls, avalanches and crevasse accidents. 6 South Koren climbers have died but no other single nationality has more than 4 deaths in the past decade. As far as operators, no one operator stood out since the majority of the non-Sherpa deaths were of climbers on private national climbs, large shared permits or were climbing independently.

I am often asked which side is safer and my answer is pick your poison. The south has the Khumbu Icefall and the north has the Steps and weather. However these numbers clearly show the north takes a stronger toll. But the real story is the role and impact of the unsung heroes – the Sherpas.

Climb On!

Alan

* Source : – Alan Arnette : 2010 Everest expeditions.

* Previous story :

- Mt.Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Author : Kraig Becker

It feels a little odd to be writing about the Everest 2010 season before Christmas, but when our friend Alan Arnette has already launched his coverage, I’m just trying to keep up. As regular readers know, Alan has the best coverage of Everest that you’ll find anywhere, and it looks like he’s going to surpass himself in the spring climbing season.

Mt. Everest – Everest 2010 season

Today we get a new entry that true Everest junkies will enjoy, as it is An Insider’s Look at Everest 2010, kicking things off with an interview with Phil Crampton, the owner of the Altitude Junkies, one of the best, and most reputable guide services on the mountain.

Alan begins the blog post with a little background on Phil, and his experience guiding in the Himalaya. From there, he goes into the interview itself, asking Phil about his thoughts for the spring climbing and trekking season in Nepal, whether or not he thinks it will be a “normal” year on Everest, and much more. The past few season’s on Everest haven’t been “normal” so to speak, thanks in part to the closures of Tibet, and the uncertainty of gaining access from that side of the mountain. Phil also talks about the rising costs of making a climb on Everest and the differences he found between climbing the North and South sides of the mountain.

All in all, Phil expects this to be a very good year on Everest, with a lot of the uncertainty from the past two years out of the picture. That should make a lot of climbers and trekkers more secure in their travels come spring time, but as Alan points out, we’re still 16 weeks away from the start of that season, and a lot can change between now and then.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

- Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

bean to cup

Author : Colin Wallace.

I am hoping to keep up to date with any British Teams or Britons on other permits climbing Mount Everest this season.

Are you climbing Mount Everest this Spring? If so please let me know and I will then add you to the list below.

Please remember that I have ONLY listed those members who are travelling on a British UK Passport.

List of the British teams climbing on Mount Everest 2010 season :

Adventure Peaks – Everest North Ridge Expedition – www.adventurepeaks.com

Bonita Norris – Global Angel’s 2010 Everest Expedition – www.bonitanorris.blogspot.com

Geordie Stewart – Northeast Ridge route – www.geordiestewart7summits.com

Jagged Globe – 2010 South Col Everest expedition – www.jagged-globe.co.uk

Adventure Extreme Expeditions – North Col route – www.mountaindynamics.co.uk

Trekking Encounters – South Col Route – www.trekkingencounters.com

Dream Guides – South Col Route – www.dream-guides.com

To keep up to date on how the British teams are doing while on Mount Everest please view our Dispatches.

* Source : – http://www.everest1953.co.uk/

Mount Everest The British Story For all information concerning the British on Mount Everest, we will provide the answers to many questions. From their first expedition to those of today, you will find a comprehensive history, list of summiteers, amazing facts, a gallery and much more.

** Previous story :

- K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs.

- No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks by Ed Viesturs.

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

I Recommend …

Berg Adventures International - http://www.bergadventures.com/

About Berg Adventures International :

Challenge, personal achievement, cultural learning and our unsurpassed dedication to your adventure travel experience — that’s the Berg Adventures promise.

Founded by world-class guide, educator and expedition leader Wally Berg, Berg Adventures International (BAI) is committed to travel, adventure, and learning.

Wherever we go, our goals for each adventure are the same:

Personal Achievement:

Adventure travel is always humbling. The accomplishments of exploring the far-off places and climbing high peaks can enrich lives far beyond the excitement of reaching a summit or the end of a magnificent journey. The preparation, training and dreaming that precede a great adventure are important parts of the total package. From a Galapagos exploration to the top of Mount Everest, from Marco Polo’s Silk Road to your quest to climb the Seven Summits, we will be with you every step of the way to help you realize your goals.

Cultural Tourism:

A deeply rewarding part of every BAI trip is connecting with the good friends we have made during our decades of trips on every continent. Your BAI adventure will be led by top guides who will help you immerse yourself in the culture around you, not stay apart from it.

Cultural interaction is a big part of a BAI trip.

Solid, Fun Group travel:

Years of expedition life have shown us the value of teamwork while exploring new terrain of the earth and the spirit. Through the intensity of your efforts in wild, demanding places, and the laughter shared along the way, expect to build strong bonds with your teammates.

We also realize that your journey may be intensely personal. With our high ratio of BAI guides and support staff, you can move at your own pace and still be fully engaged in the social framework of the team.

Communication:

We pride ourselves on having seamless communications. Wherever we are in the world, guides are in direct contact with BAI’s home office. Our state-of-the-art equipment ensures clear communications among all team members, too.

The Internet expedition dispatches we’ve pioneered since 1997 are perfect for sharing your personal odyssey. Family, friends, and associates back home can check the BAI web site each day for the latest updates and photographs of your travels. You can access all the reports and pictures from your travels whenever you want by clicking on our permanent archives. Check the Dispatches section of our site for archived dispatches from recent BAI adventures.

Unique Adventure Travel Itineraries:

The highest peak on every continent. The snow-capped summit of Kilimanjaro. Everest Base Camp. The vast wilderness of Antarctica. The Galapagos Islands. The summit of Mount Everest. Whatever your chosen destination, Berg Adventures goes where few others venture. Our personalized, uncompromising dedication to quality sets us apart from all the rest.

We tailor every journey to meet your expectations. Friends and family members sharing a travel adventure will find every aspect of the trip perfectly matched to their individual abilities and interests. Whether it’s group travel, corporate adventures, or charity and fund-raising climbs, we bring uncompromising standards of service and quality to helping you turn your dreams into success.

BAI trips are unique, too, because of what happens before and after our major treks and climbs. Our ascent of Mount Elbrus begins and ends in the captivating Russian city of St. Petersburg. We climb Lobuche Peak before attempting the summit of Ama Dablam. And a Berg Adventures safari is worth the trip to Africa on its own, and a great adventure to share with family and friends after a Kilimanjaro summit climb.

Berg Adventures Knows the Value of Teamwork

Responsible Travel:

In an age of ‘Leave No Trace’ principles, we continue our long-standing commitment to ecologically sensitive, low-impact adventures.

Through cultural awareness and personal connections in the communities we visit, we have established goodwill and long-term relationships with many people around the globe. BAI’s staff members on every continent are well-paid, care about your experience, and are eager to share their cultures with you and draw you into their world.

We hope you’ll make Berg Adventures a part of your next great adventure!

** Previous story : - Guides

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

I Recommend …

International Mountain Guides - http://www.mountainguides.com/index.shtml

About International Mountain Guides :

International Mountain Guides directors Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Eric Simonson and Paul Baugher organize and lead climbing, trekking and mountaineering expeditions around the world, from the classic climbs of the Alps and Andes to the 8,000m peaks of the Himalayas. We continue to be one of the most respected and active guiding companies in the world. Since 1986 we have conducted hundreds of expeditions to destinations around the globe, and the fact that most of our customers climb with us again and again tells us we’re doing things right!

Everest South Side Summit Climb with International Mountain Guides.

IMG’s Everest programs are recognized worldwide as simply outstanding, with a reputation for our highly professional staff of leaders, climbers and Sherpas, first-rate logistics and our resulting safety and success record on the mountain. Since 1991 we have conducted over forty 8000-meter expeditions and have seen over 300 climbers reach the summit of these peaks, including 179 on Everest.

For 2009 we are proud to announce an exciting array of Everest options with the IMG All-Stars, under the direction of legendary climber and expedition leader Eric Simonson. We offer something for everyone… from treks to summit climbs, and we have designed our programs to be truly unique and special.

.. more : - http://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south.shtml

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1. Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska. /Version english and polish/

2. Exploring National Parks - national parks across the U.S.

3. Yosemite National Park - photo galery part 1.

4. Yosemite National Park - photo galery part 2.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition led by Ryszard Pawłowski (he has summitted Everest three times 5/13/94, 5/12/95, and 5/18/99.); the team : Agenor Gawrzyał, Andrzej Życzkowski (KW Gliwice), Henryk Szczęsny, Piotr Snopczyński, Ryszard Zawada.

Ryszard Pawłowski (24 June 1950) Polish alpine and high-altitude climber and photographer. Member of The Explorers Club.

Ryszard Pawlowski in the founder and co-owner of Patagonia Mountain Agency. He has been climbing since 1970 and is an alpinism instructor and guide. He has climbed the mountains of North and South America, the Himalayas, Alps, Caucasus, Pamirs and Tien Shain.

Goal:

Ryszard Pawłowski wants to climb Broad Peak (8047m) by normal (first ascent) route.

Accomplishment time:

12.06.2009 – 01.08.2009

Description of the expedition:

The team wants to climb Broad Peak (8047m) by normal route.

The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.

* Source : - http://www.patagonia.com.pl/

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009.

Jubileuszowa wyprawa Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Cel:

Celem wyprawy jest wspinaczka na Broad Peak (8047m) – w 25 rocznicę zdobycia tego szczytu przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Termin realizacji :

Wyprawa startuje z kilkudniowym opóźnieniem (miała się rozpocząć 5 czerwca). a rozpocznie się 12.06.2009 i potrwa do 01.08.2009

Opis wyprawy:

Wejście na szczyt jest przewidziane drogą normalną, drogą pierwszych zdobywców.

Dla Ryszarda Pawłowskiego będzie to swoisty jubileusz ponieważ 25 lat wcześniej zdobył Broad Peak i był to wtedy jego pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik.

Dla Piotra Snopczyńskiego to już kolejny ośmiotysięcznik do zdobycia.

Natomiast pozostali uczestnicy wyprawy będą zdobywać Broad Peak jak swój pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik, choć należy podkreślić, że wszyscy oni mają już doświadczenie z wielu wypraw na inne szczyty organizowanych właśnie przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Uczestnicy :

Ryszard Pawłowski - Lider
urodzony w 1950 roku, zodiakalny Rak, ale Tygrys według horoskopu chińskiego, inżynier elektryk, instruktor alpinizmu, przewodnik górski.

Wziął udział w ponad 200 wyprawach w różne góry świata jako uczestnik lub organizator. Zdobył dziesięć szczytów ośmiotysięcznych, m.in. K2 (8611 m n.p.m.) płn. filarem. Jest jedynym Polakiem, który trzykrotnie stanął na szczycie Mt. Everestu (8848 m n.p.m.).

Dokonał wielu wejść trudnymi drogami wspinaczkowymi w różnych rejonach Ziemi. Był partnerem wspinaczkowym Jerzego Kukuczki, Piotra Pustelnika, Janusza Majera, Krzysztofa Wielickiego, Adama Zyzaka.
Jest członkiem prestiżowego The Explorers Club, stowarzyszenia zrzeszającego 3000 odkrywców i badaczy z kilkudziesięciu państw wszystkich kontynentów.

Sylwetka himalaisty :

- Ryszard Pawłowski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

Piotr Snopczyński
58 l., był ratownikiem Górskiego Ochotniczego Pogotowia Ratunkowego już od czasu studiów na Akademii Wychowania Fizycznego we Wrocławiu. W latach 1998-2002 był wiceprezesem tej organizacji. Przeszedł normalną drogę wspinania od Alp i Kaukazu po Karakorum i Himalaje. W latach 90. atakował kilkakrotnie Mt. Everest i K2. Wie, co to zima w Himalajach – trzy lata temu brał udział w wyprawie na Nanga Parbat. Wie też, jakie potrafi być lato w Himalajach – w 1993 r., podczas załamania pogody po zejściu ze szczytu Gaszerbrum II (8035 m), stracił odmrożone palce stóp.

Andrzej Życzkowski (KW Gliwice)
33 l., z zawodu - prawnik, z zamiłowania - taternik, alpinista, podróżnik.
Od 1992 r. członek Gliwickiego Klubu Wysokogórskiego. Instruktor narciarstwa oraz wspinaczki skałkowej. Przeszedł kilkadziesiąt dróg wspinaczkowych w Tatrach - latem i zimą. Uprawia wspinaczkę skalną, lodową oraz drytooling.
Organizator i uczestnik wypraw wysokogórskich w Karakorum (Gasherbrum II'2008, Chichmul Peak'1998), Garhwal (Kedar Dome'1999), Himalaje (Singu Chuli'2001), Pamir (Pik Lenina'2002), Tien-Shan (Chan Tenri'2003-2006).

Strona domowa uczestnika : - www.alpinizm.europ.pl

- Agenor Gawrzyał.

- Henryk Szczęsny.

- Ryszard Zawada.

Broad Peak - oznacza Szeroki Szczyt. Rozległość masywu leżącego zaledwie 9 kilometrów od K2, drugiej pod względem wysokości góry Ziemi, uzasadnia nazwę nadaną przez M. Conwaya w 1890 roku. Masyw jest bardzo rozbudowany i posiada szereg licznych tarasów i bocznych grani. Wyróżnić można w nim trzy wybitne wzniesienia. Są to Broad Peak (8047 m), Broad Peak North, wznoszący się na wysokość 7382 m i Broad Peak Middle mający 8006 m. Oba wierzchołki przekraczające 8000 metrów, oddzielone są od siebie głęboko wciętą przełęczą osiągającą 7800 m i traktowane obecnie są jako oddzielne cele wyprawowe.

Miejscowa nazwa tego szczytu to Falchan Kangri (w języku balti również oznacza to Szeroki Szczyt) Po raz pierwszy nazwy tej użył użył Ardito Desio. Na zachodzie masyw oddzielony jest od sąsiedniego K2 potężnym lodowcem Godwin Austen, do którego spływają lodowce: First West Falchan, Second West Falchan, Falchan Glacier i West Kharut Glacier, na wschodzie zaś ogranicza go North Gasherbrum Glacier połykający Easthern Falchan Glacier. Poza tym od północy przełęcz North Falchan La (6550 m) i od południa South Falchan La. W graniach bocznych wyróżnić można kilka sześcio- i pięciotysięcznych turni.

Broad Peak należy do grupy Baltoro Mustagh, obejmującej najwyższe partie łańcucha Karakorum. Eksplorację tego regionu rozpoczęto jeszcze w XIX wieku, ale siłą rzeczy głównym obiektem zainteresowania był pobliski, piękny K2, a Broad Peak musiał czekać na swą kolej aż do okresu powojennego. W 1954 roku Karl Maria Herligkoffer podjął próbę ataku. Kierowana przez niego wyprawa była jednak zmuszona wycofać się z wysokości 7100 metrów. Ostatecznie szczyt został zdobyty 9 czerwca 1957 roku. Uczestnicy austriackiej wyprawy kierowanej przez Markusa Schmucka, Kurt Diemberger, Fritz F. Wintersteller, Herman Buhl i sam kierownik weszli wówczas na szczyt zachodnią flanką. Droga ta jest obecnie tzw. Drogą Klasyczną.

Pierwszymi Polakami, którzy weszli na szczyt byli Jerzy Kukuczka i Wojciech Kurtyka. Dokonali tego 30 lipca 1982 roku. Bardziej spektakularnym sukcesem był atak Broad Peak Middle .W 1975 roku atakowała ten wierzchołek polska wyprawa kierowana przez Janusza Fereńskiego. Wtedy to na szczyt jako pierwsi w historii weszli Kazimierz Głazek, Janusz Kuliś, Marek Kęsicki, Andrzej Sikorski i Bohdan Nowaczyk. Trzej ostatni zginęli podczas dramatycznego zejścia. Było to pierwsze polskie wejście na wierzchołek ośmiotysięczny, niestety okupione wysoką ceną.

Organizator wyprawy :

Źródło : - http://www.patagonia.com.pl/

* zobacz też :

- posty o wyprawach Ryszarda Pawłowskiego, kliknij – Ryszard Pawłowski

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