Everest my dream: May 2009

Everest Firsts.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 09:09:00 am 0 comments

1922: 7 Sherpa climbers die in an avalanche becoming the first reported deaths on Everest.

1953: First Summit: May 29, 1953: Tenzing Norgay & Sir Edmund Percival Hillary (New Zealand) via the South-East Ridge Route. (Western Cwn, Lhotse face to the South-East ridge.)

1960: May 25, 1960: Chinese team makes first Summit of Everest via the North Ridge.

1963: James Whittaker reaches the Summit of Everest becoming the first American.

1963: May 22, 1963: The first ascent of the Everest West Ridge, actually the West Ridge/North Face by Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein.

Also the first traverse as they descended the South East Ridge/ South Col.

1965: May 20, 1965: Nawang Gombu Sherpa becomes the first person to Summit Everest twice. Both of his summits were via the South east ridge, his first as a member of Jim Whittaker’s American Expedition were he became the 11th person to summit Everest. Out of the first seventeen summits of Everest, Nawang had two of them!

1975: Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman to reach the summit on 5/16/75 via the South-East Ridge.

1975: A Tibetan woman, Phantog, reaches the Summit only a few days after Junko on 5/27/75. Becoming he second woman to summit Everest and the first woman to summit from the North (Tibet) side.

1975: September 24, 1975: Dougal Haston and Doug Scott Summit via the South west face.

1978: First Ascent without bottled oxygen: Peter Habeler (Austria) and Reinhold Messner (Italy) 5/8/78 via the South-East Ridge

1978: The first European woman and the third woman to summit Everest, Wanda Rutkiewicz, reaches the top. Wanda goes on to become known as the greatest woman climber ever.

1979: The first woman, Hannelore Schmatz, dies on Everest descending from the Summit after becoming only the 4th woman to Summit Everest.

1979: May 13, 1979: Andrej Stremfelj and Jernej (aka Nejc) Zaplotnik reached the Summit via the true West ridge and descend via the Hornbein Couloir. Also the first Slovenians climbers to Summit Everest.

1980: First Winter ascent Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland) 2/17/80

1980: May 10, 1980: Tsuneoh Shigehiro and Takashi Ozaki made the first full ascent of the North Face (Japanese Couloir to the Hornbein Couloir) of Everest.

1980: May 19, 1980: Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok followed the South Pillar on the right hand edge of the Southwest Face.

1980: August 20, 1980: Solo: Reinhold Messner (Italy) 8/20/80 via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters without the use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.

1982: Laurie Skreslet first Canadian to reach the Summit on October 5, 1982.

1982: May 4, 1982: 11 Russia climbers reached the Summit via the South West Pillar left of the Great Central Gully on the Southwest Face.

1983: October 8, 1983: Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler reached the Summit via the East or Kangshung face.

1984: First Indian women to climb Mount Everest was Bachendri Pal on 5/23/84.

1984: October 3, 1984: Australians Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer reached the Summit via the North Couloir (North Face to Norton Couloir) without bottled oxygen.

1984: October 20, 1984: Phil Ershler becomes first American to summit the North side of Everest.

1985: Dick Bass reaches the Summit of Everest becoming the oldest person at the time, 55.

1986: May 20, 1986: Canadian Sharon Wood became the first North American woman to Summit Everest and climbed the new route of the west Shoulder from the Rongbuk Glacier and continued on to the Summit via the Hornbein Couloir.

1988: May 12, 1988: British Stephen Venables, climbed a line to the left of the left of the 1983 Kangshung Face route.

1988: September 29,1988 The First American Woman, Stacey Allison reaches the Summit of Everest via the South East ridge.

1988: First woman without oxygen Lydia Bradey (New Zealand) 10/14/88.

1989: May 16, 1989 Ricardo Torres, the Mexican climber was the first Latin American climber to summit Everest.

1989: Carlos Carsolio was the first Mexican and Latino American to climb Everest without oxygen.

1990: First Married Couple to summit together: Andrej & Marija Stremfelj (Slovenia), 10/7/90. Marija was also the first Slovenian women to summit Everest.

1990: First Son of a summiter to Summit Everest: Peter Hillary (New Zealand) 5/10/90

1990: First Swedish male to ascent is Mikael Retersward, on May 11, 1990.

1990: First father and son to summit together: Jean Noel Roche and his son Roche Bertrand aka Zebulon. They flew together on a tandem paraglider from the south Col. They landed at base camp on the 7th of October 1990. Roche Bertrand was 17 at the time and became the youngest person to ever climb Everest at the time.

1992: First case of two brothers to reach the Summit together: Alberto and Felix Inurrategui September 25, 1992.

1993: The first Nepalese woman, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, summits Everest but dies descending from the Summit on 4/23/93.

1993: Dicky Dolma becomes the youngest woman to Summit Everest at 19 years old.

1995: May 11th, 1995: The first ascent of the Northeast Ridge on May 11th, completed by Kiyoshi Furuno (Japan), Shigeki Imoto (Japan), Dawa Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, and Nima Sherpa.

1995: May 14, 1995 Waldemar Niclevicz first Brazilian to climb Everest.

1995: Nasuh Mahruki Became the first Turkish and Muslim climber in the world to climb Mt Everest, May 1995.

1996: The first ascent of the North-Northeast couloir by Peter Kuznetzov, Valeri Kohanov and Grigori Semikolenkov on 5/20/96.

1996: Lene Gammelgaard became the first Danish and Scandinavian woman to summit Everest via the South-East Ridge Route route on May 10, 1996.

1996: First swede without artificial oxygen was Goran Kropp on May 23, 1996.

1999: Babu becomes the first and only climber to sleep on the Summit. Babu spent over 21 hours on the Summit of Everest.

1999: Katja Staartjes on 5/13/99 became the first and only Dutch woman to Summit Everest.

1999: Elsa Avila Carsolio was the first Mexican and Latioamerican to summit Everest on 05/05/99.

1999: First Swedish female was Renata Chlumska on May 5, 1999.

2000: Nazir Sabir: First Pakistani to summit the Everest 5/17/2000

2000: First true Ski descent: Davo Karnicar

2001: Roche Bertrand and his wife Claire Bernier Roche flew together on a tandem paraglider from the North side Summit of Everest. The paraglider arrived at ABC 8 minutes later…This first husband and wife to fly from the Summit together !

2001: Stefan Gatt the first to Snowboard from the Summit of Everest.

2001:Marco Siffredi on his Snowboard completed the first-ever descent of Everest on a snowboard from the Summit to ABC.

2001: American Erik Weihenmayer becomes the first ever blind person to Summit Everest.

2001: Viviana Cuq, Cristina Prieto and Patricia Soto, from Chile, became the first south American women to reach the summit of Everest, on May 22, 2001, via the South-East Ridge

2001: Karsang Tendup, the first Yak Man to summit Everest in 2001

2001: EVELYNE BINSACK: The first Swiss woman to summit Everest.

2002: Phil and Susan Ershler reached the summit of Mt. Everest becoming the first couple to climb the Seven Summits together. Additionally, they became the First American couple to climb Mt. Everest.

2003: Yuichiro Miura Summited Everest at 70 to become the oldest man to reach the Summit. He summited with his son. Gota Miura.

2003: American Gary Guller become the first person with only one arm to Summit Everest.

2003: George Dijmarescu Summits Everest five times from the North in FIVE YEARS!

2003: Apa Sherpa Summits Everest for a record 13th time.

2003: The Chinese Broadcast LIVE from the Summit of Everest again.

2003: Jess Roskelley Become the youngest American to Summit Everest

2003: Babu’s Sherpa Speed ascent record is broken

2003: Three Brothers Summit Everest on the same day

2003: Apa Sherpa summits for the 13th time.

2003: Everest speed record set and then broken: Mr. Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (25 yrs) Climbing Sherpa from Rolwaling on 23 May 2003 summited Mt Everest in 12 hours 45 Minutes which was the world record with oxygen until Lakpa Gelu Sherpa (36 yrs), Climbing Sirdar from Jubing – 1, KhariKhola, Solukhumbu, Nepal summited in only 10 Hours 56 Minutes and 46 Seconds.

2003: Zed Al-Refai (Kuwait) As the First Arab to Summit Everest in May 22, 2003

2003: And more to come….Ok, We have a TON more to add here. Help us submit the “first” you think should be listed to web@everestnews2004.com

To add: Michael Jorgensen the first Dane to reach the top.

Tashi Tenzing Sherpa – grandson of Tenzing Norgay – first time a third generation of one family climbed Everest.

First Spanish climber without oxygen: Oscar Cadiach

2004: On the 16th May Vicky Jack became the oldest British woman to climb Mount Everest at the age of 51

2004: Appa Sherpa made his 14th ascent of Mount Everest on the 17th May

2004: On the 18th May Clare O’Leary became the first Irish woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest

2004: 21st May saw Pemba Dorje Sherpa make a speed record of 8 hours and 10 minutes from base camp to summit of Mount Everest

2005: A new height for Mount Everest was taken from GPS to be 29.017ft and 2 inches

2005: On the 30th May Moni Mulepati and Pem Dorjee became the first to exchange wedding vows on the summit of Mount Everest

2005: Appa Sherpa made his 15th ascent of Mount Everest on the 31st May

2005: Explorer Ranulph Fiennes reached a height of 27,560ft on Mount Everest before pulling out on his summit attempt on the 3rd June

2005: Jake Meyer at the age of 21 became the youngest Briton to summit Mount Everest on the 4th June

2006: Mark Ingliz from New Zealand became the first ‘double amputie’ (has artificial legs) to reach Everest’s summit on the 15th May

2006: On the 17th May Kenton Cool became the first Briton to have reached the summit of Everest 3 times

2006: Rob Gauntlet and James Hooper became the youngest Britons aged 19 to reach Everest’s summit on the 17th May

2006: Pauline Sanderson became the first person to complete the longest climb on earth, from the Dead Sea and reaching the summit of Everest on the 18th May

2006: On the 19th May Apa Sherpa reached the summit of Everest for his 16th time

2006: On the 22nd May Will Cross from Pittsburgh became the first person with ‘Type 1 Diabetes’ to reach the summit of Everest

2006: Ming Kipa Sherpais the youngest girl at the age of 15 to reach the summit of Everest on the 24th May

2006: On the 24th May Lakpa Tharke Sherpa stood on the summit of Everest for 3 minutes ’bare chested’

2006: On the 25th May Austrian climber Christian Stangl made a speed ascent from the North side of Everest taking 16 hours 42 minutes from Base Camp to summit. He then took just 6 hours from the summit back to Base Camp on the same day

2007: Chhiring Dorje Sherpa climbed to the summit 3 times within 2 weeks. Summit dates were 2nd May, 15th May and 16th May

2007: On the 15th May David Tait became the first Briton to Traverse Mount Everest, starting from Tibet North side and ending in Nepal South side

2007: Apa Sherpa broke his own record on the 16th May by reaching the summit of Mount Everest for his Seventeenth time

2007: British climbers Kenton Cool and Robert Casserly reached the summit of Everest twice in the same week, on the 17th and 24th May

2007: On the 22nd May Katsusuke Yanagisawa from Japan became the oldest person to reach the summit of Mount Everest. He was 71 years, 2 months and 2 days old

2007: On the 24th May Tori James became the first Welsh woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest

2007: Dutchman Wim Hoff reached an altitude of 24,278ft on Mount Everest wearing a pair of shorts on the ? May

2008: Sir Edmund Hillary sadly passed away aged 88 on the 11th January

2008: On the 22nd January New Zealand hold a State Funeral for Sir Edmund Hillary

2008: The first Saudi Arabian, Farouq Saad Hamad Al-Zuman reached the summit of Everest on the 21st May

2008: On the 22nd May Apa Sherpa reached Mount Everest summit for the eighteenth (18) time

2008: Australian Cheryl Bart and her daughter Nicole Bart were the first mother-and-daughter to summit Everest together on the 24th May

2008: On the 25 May 76-year-old Min Bahadur Sherchan from Nepal became the oldest person to summit Mount Everest

2008: The 26th May saw Dave Hahn become the first non-Sherpa to summit Everest for the tenth (10) time

2009: On the 21st May, at the age of 65, Sir Ranulph Fiennes became the oldest Briton to have reached the summit of Everest

2009: On the 21st May Noel & Lynne Hanna became the first husband and wife from Northern Ireland to reach the top of the world

2009: British climber Kenton Cool reached the summit of Everest on the 21st May making it his seventh time, the most for any Briton

2009: Apa Sherpa made his 19th ascent to the summit on 21st May, the most ever

2009: With Adele Pennington’s latest ascent to the summit Everest on the 20th May this makes her the first British female to summit twice

2009: Nickolay Cherny, a Russian guide for the 7 Summits team summitted Everest on the 21st May at the age of 70

2009: Krushnaa Patil age 19, became the youngest Indian women to scale the Mount Everest on the 21st May

2009: On the 22nd May American climber Dave Hahn made his eleventh trip to the summit, the most of a non-Sherpa

2009: Bill Burke age 67 takes the title for being the oldest American to reach the summit on the 23rd May

2009: On 23rd May Lori Schneider age 52 from USA reached the summit of Everest with multiple sclerosis

Sherpa people.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:58:00 am 0 comments

Sherpa: Known for Their Work in Expeditions.

The word Sherpa (pronounced Shar-pa) often conjures up images of assistants helping western climbers reach the top of Mount Everest.

Though the word has developed into a position title for anyone hired to help with an mountaineering expedition, it comes from the name of the Sherpa people of Nepal.

The Sherpa migrated from eastern Tibet to Nepal hundreds of years ago. Prior to Western intrusion in the twentieth century, the Sherpa didn't climb mountains, they reverently passed by the high peaks of the Himalaya, believing them to be the homes of the gods. The Sherpa eked their livelihood from high-altitude farming, cattle raising, and wool spinning and weaving.

It wasn't until the 1920s that Sherpa became involved in climbing. The British, who controlled the Indian subcontinent at the time, planned mountain climbing expeditions and hired Sherpa as porters. From that point on, due to their willingness to work and ability to climb the world's tallest peaks, mountaineering became part of the Sherpa culture.

Though numerous expeditions made the attempt, it wasn't until 1953 that Edmund Hillary and a Sherpa named Tenzing Norgay managed to reach the 29,028 foot (8,848 meter) peak of Mount Everest. After 1953, countless teams of climbers invaded the Sherpa homeland, making western snacks more common than traditional Sherpa food. In 1976, the Sherpa homeland and Mount Everest became protected as part of Sagarmatha National Park. The park was created through the efforts not only of the government of Nepal, but also through the work of the Himalayan Trust, a foundation established by Hillary.

With the transformation of the Sherpa culture and way of life has also come increased income. Sherpa who work as guides, cooks, and base camp staff have an income far exceeding that of the average Nepalese. For the most part, Sherpa no longer serve as porters - they contract that job out to other ethnicities but retain positions such as head porter.

Through the Sherpa have experienced westernization, their income from climbers has helped them to preserve their society. They've managed to keep alive most of the important parts of their culture.

* Source : – http://geography.about.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Khumbu, Nepal, Sherpa, Sherpa people | |

WEEK IN REVIEW.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:41:00 am 0 comments

1. WEEK IN REVIEW by himalman.

2. WEEK IN REVIEW by reviewjournal.com

WEEK IN REVIEW | |

VIDEOS.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:32:00 am 0 comments

1. Exploring Kathmandu – Nepal, new video.

2. Inside the 1996 Everest Disaster : Ken Kamler - amazing video.

3. Nepal & Tibet - amazing movie. /Version polish and english/

4. Himalayan Pilgrimage - amazing movie.

5. Hike from Lukla to Mount Everest Base Camp – new video.

6. Everest Trek 2009 - new video.

7. Safari to Chitwan Region Nepal 2009 - video.

8. Treking in the Solo Khumbu Region. /Version polish and english/

9. Reinhold Messner interview - video.

10. Man Against Mount Everest : Swiss expedition 1952 - video.

11. Edmund Hillary summit Mt. Everest - special movies. /Version polish and english/

12. George Mallory & Andrew Irvine Tribute - video on YouTube.

13. STUDENTS FOR A FREE TIBET - you can help...

14. Everest - 1st Ascent Without Oxygen - video.

movies, videos, vodeos | |

PRESS.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:28:00 am 0 comments

1.

2.

3.

articles, media, mountain press, press | |

PHOTO GALLERY

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:25:00 am 0 comments

1. Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga – new photo gallery.

2. For eagle only ... - Tatry : Orla Perć.

3. Himalayan Spring 2009 – new photo gallery.

4. Yosemite National Park - photo galery part 1.

5. Yosemite National Park - photo galery part 2.

photo, photo gallery, photography | |

Books.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:20:00 am 0 comments

1. Into Thin Air - by Jon Krakauer. /Version polish and english/

2. My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks - By Jerzy Kukuczka.

3. Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory and Irvine.

4. No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks by Ed Viesturs.

5. K2 : Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain by Ed Viesturs.

6. Dark Summit – The True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil.

7. The Elizabeth Hawley Story - I’LL CALL YOU IN KATHMANDU.

8. Die Trying by Bo Parfet and Richard Buskin.

Amazon.com Widgets

Books, Favorite book | |

MEDIA.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:17:00 am 0 comments

1. Books.

2. Photo gallery.

3. Press.

4. Videos.

Books, photo gallery, press, videos | |

National Parks of Nepal.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:08:00 am 1 comments

Government of Nepal has set aside more than 13,000 sq. kms of protected areas that include as many bio-geographic regions as possible to assure conservation of the maximum numbers of wildlife species. These nature sanctuaries attract wildlife enthusiasts and tourists from all over the world and each park and reserve has its own attraction.

National Parks of Nepal (click to enlarge).

The Terai lowlands are defined by a belt of well-watered floodplains stretching from the Indian border northward to the first slopes of the Bhabhar and the Siwalik Range. This is the richest habitat in the land with tall grasslands interspersed with riverine and hardwood sal forest . Here one can see wildlife such as the swamp deer, musk deer, black buck, blue bull, the royal Bengal tiger, gharial and marsh mugger crocodile and the last of a breed of Asiatic wild buffalo. This area is also rich in birdlife with a variety of babbles and orioles, koels and drongos, peacocks and floricans, and a multitude of wintering wildfowl. There are five protected areas in Nepal – Koshi Tappu and Parsa in the east, Sukla Phanta and Dhorpatan for hunting in the west and Shivapuri in the. mid-mountain region. The Churia, also known as the. siwalik, is the southern most range of the Himalaya. No where do they rise above 1,220 meters, This range is famous for fossil deposits of Pleistocene mammals, among them 10 species of elephants, 6 rhinoceros, hippopotamus, saber-toothed cats, various antelopes and primates such as the orang-utan, long extinct in the subcontinent, Situated north of the Churia are broad, low valleys of the inner Terai know as the Doons. These valleys are not unlike the outer plains with tall elephant grass, swamps and ox-bow lakes where the last of the one-horned rhinoceros survive. Royal Chitwan National Park in the Inner Terai of central Nepal is the first and best protected area in the kingdom. Once one of the most famous big game hunting areas in Asia. Chitwan now offers protection to a large array of mammals such as the. one-horned rhinoceros, tiger, leopard, sloth bear and the gaur (wild bison) as well as more than 400 species of birds.

Higher in the north between 2000 and 3500 meters lies the Mahabharat Range with its oak crowned crests. The hills of this midland are covered by a moist temperate forest of deodar, oak, maple and birch in which are found deer, ghoral serow, leopard and monkey, The gorgeous multi colored lmpeyan pheasant (Nepal’s national bird) is also found here with other endangered birds like the koklas and Cheer Pheasants. Protected areas in this zone include Khapted National Park in the Far-West, Dhorpatan Hunting reserve, North-west of Pokhara and Shivapuri Wildlife Sanctuary near Kathmandu.

Higher still, nearer the snowline, are the alpine mountain flanks which are the haunt of snow leopard, which preys on blue sheep and the Himalayan tahr. Rarely seen are the wolf, black bears and lynx. The Sherpas, Manabga, and Dolpa-bas are some of those who farm and graze their livestock on the high mountain pastures. Langtang, Sagarmatha (Everest), Shey-Phoksundo and Rara National Parks are the protected high altitude areas of Nepal.

* Source : – http://www.mountmerutreks.blogspot.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Chitwan, National Parks, Nepal, SAGARMATHA NATIONAL PARK | |

National Parks.

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 07:00:00 am 0 comments

1. National Parks of Nepal.

2. Chitwan National Park.

4. SAGARMATHA NATIONAL PARK / Version polish and english /

5. Exploring National Parks - national parks across the U.S.

6. Yosemite National Park.

National Parks, SAGARMATHA NATIONAL PARK | |

SHERPA

Posted by himalman On 5/31/2009 06:41:00 am 0 comments

1. Sherpa people.

2. Tenzing Norgay - The most famous Sherpa. /Version polish and english/

3. Nepali mountaineers to lead their own destiny: Sherpa climbers First Ever Meet held on 21 June in Kathmandu.

The Sherpa (Tibetan:ཤར་པ། "eastern people", from shar "east" + pa "people") are an ethnic group from the most mountainous region of Nepal, high in the Himalayas. Sherpas migrated from eastern Tibet to Nepal within the last 300-400 years.

The term Sherpa is also used to refer to local people, typically men, who are employed as guides for mountaineering expeditions in the Himalayas, particularly Mt. Everest. They are highly regarded as elite mountaineers and experts in their local terrain. Most Sherpas live in the west regions; however, some live farther west in the Rolwaling valley and in the Helambu region north of Kathmandu. Pangboche is the Sherpas' oldest village in Nepal. Sherpas speak their own Sherpa language which in many ways resembles a dialect of Tibetan. The Jirels, native people of Jiri, are ethnically related to the Sherpas. In India, Sherpas also inhabit the towns of Darjeeling and Kalimpong and the Indian state of Sikkim. The 2001 Nepal Census recorded 154,622 Sherpas in that country, of which 92.83% were Buddhists, 6.26% were Hindus, 0.63% were Christians and 0.20% were Bön.

Famous Sherpas.

One of the most well known Sherpas is Tenzing Norgay. In 1953, he and Edmund Hillary became the first people known to have reached the summit of Mount Everest.^[2]^[3]^[4] Norgay's son Jamling Tenzing Norgay also climbed Everest in honor of his father with the famous Ed Viesturs during the disastrous year of 1996.

Two Sherpas, Pemba Dorjie and Lhakpa Gelu, recently competed to see who could climb Everest from Basecamp the fastest. On May 23, 2003, Dorjie summited in 12 hours and 46 minutes. Three days later, Gelu beat his record by two hours, summiting in 10 hours 46 minutes. On May 21, 2004, Dorjie again improved the record by more than two hours with a total time of 8 hours and 10 minutes.^[5]

On May 21, 2009, Apa Sherpa successfully summited Everest for the nineteenth time, breaking his own record for most successful ascents.^[6] Perhaps the most famous Nepalese female mountaineer is Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, the first Nepalese female climber who died during the descent. Another woman Sherpa who is well known is the two-time Everest summiteer Pemba Doma Sherpa, who died after falling from Lhotse on May 22, 2007.^[7]

* Source : – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sherpa

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Nepal, Sherpa, Sherpa people, Tenzing Norgay | |

57th TRENTO FILM FESTIVAL.

Posted by himalman On 5/30/2009 09:12:00 pm 0 comments

Mark your calendars!
57th TRENTO FILM FESTIVAL
21 April to 3 May, 2009

TRENTO. A few days ago the new board of directors of the TrentoFilmfestival that will head the event until 2011 nominated Egidio Bonapace as president and reconfirmed Maurizio Nichetti as artistic director and Augusto Golin as delegated director.

The 57th TrentoFilmfestival, the oldest and most acclaimed international festival of mountains, exploration and adventure films, scheduled in 2009 from 21 April to 3 May, is already projected.

The TrentoFilmfestival is again seeking feature films, documentaries, journalistic stories or shorts by film-makers able to portray the people and places of mountains and adventure in an original way.
The new regulations and entry form for the films are already available online on site www.trentofestival.it.

Among the innovations officially decided and inserted in the regulations, an Audience Prize for a film on ‘mountaineering’, besides the one for a feature film.

No variation, instead, in the official prizes of the TrentoFilmfestival:
The Gran Premio “Città di Trento” – Gold Gentian and 5000 Euro – for the best film of all, possessing high artistic qualities, that corresponds to the cultural aims pursued by the Festival.
The Italian Alpine Club Prize – Gold Gentian and 3000 Euro – for the best film on mountains and mountaineering.
The City of Bolzano Prize – Gold Gentian and 3000 Euro – for the best film on sport, exploration, or adventure.
The Silver Gentian and 1500 Euro – for the best short film.
The Silver Gentian and 1500 Euro – for the best television production.
The Silver Gentian and 1500 Euro – for the best artistic technical contribution.
The deadline for entering the films in the 57th TrentoFilmfestival is 31 January 2009 for films produced in 2007 or 2008; 28 February 2009 for films produced in 2009.

Also downloadable from the Internet site are the regulations and participation in “MontagnaLibri”, the 23rd International Review of Mountain Publications, the main world event dedicated to books on mountains, which is held alongside and, as always, opens a few days prior to the Filmfestival.

** Download files :

Poster 2009

Holiday packages

Mountain Film Festivals :

** zapraszam na relacje z innych wypraw polskich himalaistów.

adventurers, Climbers, film-makers, Mountain Festival, TRENTO, writers | |

The Alpinist Film Festival

Posted by himalman On 5/30/2009 09:05:00 pm 0 comments

WE REGRET TO INFORM YOU OF THE CLOSING OF ALPINIST AND THE ALPINIST FILM FESTIVAL.

The Alpinist Film Festival (formerly The Barry Corbet Film Festival) honors Barry Corbet’s athletic and artistic spirit with films that celebrate the adventure lifestyle across disciplines and generations. The AFF’s mission is to advance the art of cinematographic storytelling as it underscores the unity among the adventure lifestyle communities. A portion of every year’s proceeds (more than $30,000 to date) are donated to charities that help preserve the places of our inspiration. Because one of these places is our planet, the AFF is a carbon-neutral event.

The Master Festival

Each January at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, three nights of film—Snow (skiing), Surf (surfing) and Stone (climbing)—are followed by the People’s Choice Ceremonies, which presents the People’s Choice award-winning films from the preceeding three evenings. Cocktail hours each night before the films foster a party-like atmosphere for the entire audience. A DJ provides the vibe; silent auctions benefit the year’s designated non- profit; and star presenters complete the singular experience of what has quickly become the best party in the outdoor world.

The 2009 Alpinist Film Festival will take place in Jackson Hole from January 15-18.

View the 2009 AFF: Master Festival call for entries
Submit a film for the 2009 AFF: Master Festival

The Alpinist Film Festival Tour

This fall, the AFF will be presenting three one-night screenings in Bozeman, Boulder, and Salt Lake City. Find out more about the Alpinist Film Festival Tour.

The Alpinist Film Festival Silver Screen Sessions

Host your own screening of the Alpinist Film Festival! Find out more about the AFF: Silver Screen Sessions.

Jackson Hole and Alpinist Film Festival Ski/Film Package

We at Alpinist are avid skiers (the dry rock is locked away nine months of the year), and we've been pleased to work locally with the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR), that supports both the Alpinist Film Festival and the AFF Tour.

This year, in addition to a new tram (which eliminates the need to take four separate chairlifts to the near-summit of Rendezvous Peak), the JHMR is offering a special Alpinist Film Festival package: three nights lodging in a one bedroom/one bathroom slopeside condo in Teton Village, Film Festival Headquarters, and two-day lift tickets at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. You also get an Alpinist Film Festival Pass for one evening of incredible new-release movie-viewing pleasure, a one-year Alpinist subscription and a free Alpinist Film Festival t-shirt. Package pricing starts at $518/person based on double occupancy. Valid 1/14/09 - 1/19/09, must book by 12/15/08. Please contact Jackson Hole Resort Lodging at 1-800-443-8613 or visit their website.

To learn more about the new tram, and to enter to win a ride on the first lift, visit tramformation.com.

Past Festivals

The 2008 Alpinist Film Festival Bend Event
The 2008 Alpinist Film Festival
The 2007 Alpinist Film Festival
The 2006 Alpinist Film Festival
The 2006 Alpinist Film Festival Special Screening
The 2005 Alpinist Film Festival

Mountain Film Festivals :

*** zapraszam na relacje z innych wypraw polskich himalaistów.

adventurers, Alpinist Film Festival, Climbers, film-makers, Mountain Festival, writers | |

Kendal Mountain Film Festival.

Posted by himalman On 5/30/2009 09:01:00 pm 0 comments

Mark your calendars!
2008 Kendal Mountain Festivals
20th – 23rd November 2008

‘Kendal’ is one of the world’s most prestigious mountain festivals, an internationally-known event that attracts top adventurers, climbers, writers, film-makers and film premieres from around the world. And it’s a huge tribal gathering and the main social event for outdoor enthusiasts in the UK.

This November’s event once again offers the most diverse programme of films and documentaries of any film Festival in the UK. We will be attracting premieres from many major adventure film makers from around the world. We offer an unequalled range of presentations, lectures and debates on all topics of interest to people passionate about the outdoors, mountain communities, the natural environment and adventure sports, with specialist programmes for skiers and boarders, BASE and parapenting, adventure races, kayaking and mountain biking.

Our unique Adventure Film Academy provides an unequalled opportunity to work with professionals to make your own adventure film, and of course there are great parties, music and lots to do at a range of events across a range of venues

Headline speakers for 2008

Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner is often cited as the greatest mountain climber of all time. In 1978 Messner and Peter Habeler were the first to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen and in 1980 Messner repeated this feat solo. He was the first to climb all the world’s fourteen 8,000m peaks, and one of the first and more enthusiastic supporters of alpine style mountaineering in the Himalayas. Other major ascents include the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat with his brother Günther who tragically died on the descent, and a solo of the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. Kendal is delighted to welcome Reinhold to the Festival, a rare opportunity to hear one of the true greats in the mountaineering world speak about his life and beliefs.

* see : – Reinhold Messner /Version polish and english/

Catherine Destivelle
French climber Catherine Destivelle started climbing in Fontainebleau with her father and soon progressed to the Alps. In the 1980’s she became famous for her successes in the nascent sport climbing movement competing well in the early competitions and climbing classic sport routes such as Chouca 8a+ at Buoux. In 1990 she free-climbed the Nameless Tower in Pakistan and solo climbed the Bonatti Pillar on Les Drus. In June 1991, she opened a new route up the famous west face of the Drus, during a remarkable 11-day solo-climb. She then soloed the Eiger, made winter solos of the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses and the Bonatti route on the North Face of the Matterhorn, attempted Latok in Pakistan and the West Pillar of the Makalu. Catherine became well known to UK audiences from the TV film Seo, with its amazing climbing sequences on cliffs in Mali, West Africa.

David Breashears
David Breashears is an American climber, mountaineer, author and filmmaker. In 1985 he was the first American man to reach the summit of Everest twice and went on to guide Dick Bass on the first ascent of the Seven Summits. Breashears was present on Everest during the 1996 disaster and was made famous by Jon Krakauer’s book Into Thin Air describing how three guides and two clients perished near the summit. He co-directed, co-produced and filmed the 1998 IMAX film ‘Everest’, the footage of which was taken on his 1996 expedition. Breashears has also worked on other films such as Seven Years in Tibet and Cliffhanger, and is the recipient of four Emmy awards for achievement in cinematography.

Steph Davis
American climber Steph Davis is recognised as one of the world’s premier adventure climbers, and one of the few women to have free-climbed El Capitan in Yosemite when in 2005 she climbed the Salathe Wall (VI 5.13b/c). She is also the first woman to climb all seven named summits in the Fitzroy massif. In 2007 she soloed Pervertical Sanctuary (IV 5.10c) on the Diamond, Longs Peak (14,255′) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Her crack climbing abilities are legendary, and Steph has also recently taken up BASE jumping. She is author of High Infatuation: A Climber’s Guide to Love and Gravity, “partly a history of growing up in the climbing world, partly a book of adventure tales, but mostly an effort to figure out how things fit together”.

Film Competition entries now open for 2008

“Since 1980, the very best showcase for mountain sports, culture & environment”

Mountain Film Festivals :

*** zapraszam na relacje z innych wypraw polskich himalaistów.

adventurers, Climbers, film-makers, Kendal, Mountain Festival, writers | |

Mountain Festival

Posted by himalman On 5/30/2009 08:53:00 pm 0 comments

1. ALPINIST Film Festival.

2. International Alliance for Mountain Film.

3. 16th annual International Climbers’ Festival - Lander, Wyoming.

4. KENDAL Mountain Festivals.

5. Krakow Mountain Film Festival.

5.1 5th Krakow Mountain Film Festival - V KFG /Version polish and english/

5.2 VI KFG - 6th Krakow Mountain Film Festival. 6 edycja Krakowskiego Festiwalu Górskiego. /Version english and polish/

5.3 7th Krakow Mountain Film Festival. VII edycja Krakowskiego Festiwalu Górskiego. /Version english and polish/

6. TRENTO FILM FESTIVAL.

7. The 14th Andrzeja Zawada’s Mountain Film Review – Lądek-Zdrój September 2009.

8. Zakopane Mountain Film Festival.

adventurers, Climbers, film-makers, Mountain Festival, writers | |

Nepal Trekking – Manaslu Trek (17 days).

Posted by himalman On 5/30/2009 02:28:00 pm 0 comments

Total tour Duration : 23 days
Manaslu Trekking days : 17 days
Trekking grade: strenous
Max altitude : 5213 m
Trekking style : Camping
Best Seasons: Oct. to Nov . and March to April
Min group size : 3 pax

Manaslu used to be a restricted trekking area , only from December 2007 that it is allowed for general trekkers. The Manaslu trekking takes us to the upper Budhi Gandaki of Gorkha district , also called Nupri in Tibetan. The region borders with Tibet, the people have active trading with the Tibetans and they are themselves descendants of Tibetans. Their speech, clothing and cultureare same as that of Tibetans. Manaslu trekking offers preserved, authentic villages, invaluable old monasteries, Tibetan Buddhist culture and superb mountain views. This trip is both a Himalayan trek and a cultural journey to medieval world.

The Manaslu trekking starts with a five hour drive to Arughat and the trail follows the valley of thundering Budhi Gandaki river. Passing through numerous waterfalls and enjoying the alpine scenery, we reach the exotic Buddhist villages of Sirdibas and Samagaon. These villages offer an otherworldly , exotic atmosphere and are a great place to watch authentic Buddhist arts. The mountain views in Nupri are sensational and the Larke pass (5,213m) is a dramatic Himalayan pass to cross. Crossing the Larke pass we emerge to Marshyangdi valley on the popular Annapurna circuit trek. Our trek ends at Beshisahar where we catch our vehicle back to Kathmandu.

Manaslu Trekking Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to the hotel.
Day 02: Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
Day 03: Drive to Arughat-500m (6 hr).
Day 04: Trek to – Arkhet-650m ( 5-6 hr).
Day 05: Trek to – Labu Bensi-700m (6-7 hr).
Day 06: Trek to - Tatopani-800m (5-6 hr).
Day 07: Trek to – Sirdibas
Day 08: Trek to - Ngyak-1550m (6-7 hr).
Day 09: Trek to – Namru-2450m (6-7 hr).
Day 10: Trek to – Lho Gaon-3000m (5-6 hr).
Day 11: Trek to – Sama Gaon-3450m (5-6 hr).
Day 12: Trek to – Samdo-3900m (4-5 hr).
Day 13: Rest and acclimatisation at Samdo
Day 14: Samdo – Larke Bazar-4150m (4-5 hr).
Day 15: Cross Larke Pass 5213m, the highest point in Manaslu trekking. Trek further to Bhimathang-3800m (7-8 hr)
Day 16: Bhimathang- Karche-2550m (5-6 hr).
Day 17: Karche- Dharapani-1943m (6-7 hr).
Day 18: Dharapani- Jagat-1314m (6-7 hr).
Day 19: Jagat- Bhulbhule
Day 20: Bhulbhule Besishahar
Day 21: Drive Besishahar to Kathmandu, 5 hours
Day 22: Free day in Kathmandu.Farewell Nepali dinner with ethnic cultural show.
Day 23: Fly back home

Manaslu trekking permit

Sep to Nov USD 35/week
Dec to Aug USD 25/week

Price: All our trips are tailor made trips with personalized services. In order for us to quote you the price, please write us with the number of persons in your group, your choice of hotels and ammendments in our itinerary, if any. Our prices are very reasonnable for the services we provide.

Included in the price

All surface transfers as per itinerary
Trekking permit.
Two star hotel in Kathmandu in twin sharing ,bed and breakfast basis
Fooding, lodging and other expenses of trekking crew
Fooding (3 meals a day ) and lodging for the clients in trek days
Necessary permit and national park fees
Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
Farewell Nepali dinner.

Not included in the price

single suppliment charges (if required.)
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Departure tax from Kathmandu ($24 approx)
Personal equipments and clothing
International airfare and your travel insurances
Cold drinks and beverages
Personal expenses and tips to the crew

* Source : – http://www.trekkingnepal.biz/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Himalaya, Manaslu, Nepal, travel, trek, trekking | |

Biggest tragedy of Polish climbers in Himalayas - Mount Everest Expedition 1989. Everest za cenę życia.

Posted by himalman On 5/29/2009 05:02:00 pm 1 comments

Biggest tragedy of Polish climbers in Himalayas on Mt. Everest -

- Mount Everest Expedition 1989.

Previously, the worst single accident on Mount Everest had occurred in 1989, when five Polish climbers died in an avalanche.

On May 27, 1989 died in avalanche on Lho La : Mirosław Falco-Dąsal, Mirosław Gardzielewski, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich and Andrzej Otręba.

Eugeniusza Chrobaka who has survived in avalanche died next day on Lho La. He and Andrzej Marciniak successfully summitted Mount Everest on May 24, 1989.

20 rocznica tragedii na Lho La
w niedzielę 31.05.09 o godz. 13 zostanie odprawiona Msza św. żałobna w kościele na Wiktorówkach.

W 20 rocznicę tragicznej śmierci pod Everestem himalaistów: Eugeniusza Chrobaka, Mirosława Falco-Dąsala, Mirosława Gardzielewskiego, Zygmunta Andrzeja Heinricha i Andrzeja Otręby.

Tablica poświęcona jest uczestnikom najbardziej tragicznej z polskich wypraw w Himalaje, w której w maju 1989r zginęło 5ciu Polaków.

Wyprawa miała zdobywać Everest tzw zachodnia droga, zwana tez jugosłowiańska, bo to oni pokonali ja z sukcesem w 1979r. Droga najdłuższa i uważana za najtrudniejsza, wiedzie przez tzw. Zachodnie Plecy i prowadzi przez Khumbutse, Lho La i bardzo eksponowany teren. Wymaga pokonywania wielu trudności, poreczowania, zabezpieczania szlaku aż do wierzchołka, a wiec dużo pracy dla wielu ludzi oraz dużo sprzętu. Z wielkim trudem całej wyprawy udało się “zrobić cały szlak”. Po wyczerpującej wspinaczce 24.05.1989r na Everescie stanęli Eugeniusz Chrobak i Andrzej Marciniak.

Tragedia rozegrała się w drodze powrotnej gdy wydawało się, ze już są bezpieczni.

Na spotkanie wracających zdobywców wyszli z bazy Andrzej “Zyga” Heinrich, dla którego zawsze było mało wspinaczki i Wacław Otręba, a w “jedynce” byli i czekali Mirosław “Falco” Dąsal i Mirosław Gardzielewski. Trzy zespoły spotkały się w jedynce w piątek wieczorem i czuli się tu bezpiecznie, bo tyle razy z tego miejsca wspinali się wyżej na szczyt, ze traktowali jedynkę niemal jak bazę, a przed sobą mieli szlak najczęściej pokonywany wcześniej czyli forsowne przejście przez Khumbutse.

Na przełęczy szalała śnieżyca, a w bazie czekali niecierpliwie, aż lada moment szóstka z Lho La wyłoni się z tej strony góry. 27 maja po 13tej w radio rozległy się trzaski, a potem usłyszeli głos Marciniaka o tragedii, o tym ze zeszła lawina z Khumbutse. Z lawiny ocaleli tylko zdobywcy Everestu, ale Chrobak miał złamana nogę i był w szoku. Potem zeszła kolejna lawina, a rano (28.05.1989r) okazało się ze Chrobak już nie oddycha.

Marciniak znalazł się w bardzo trudnym położeniu, pomoc z bazy była niemożliwa, nie miał zapasów, sprzętu, a na dodatek błądzenia w śnieżycy bez okularów spowodowały porażenie wzroku, był “ślepy”. Znalazł jednak na tym śnieżnym pustkowiu namiot, a w nim trochę jedzenia i gazu oraz lekarstwo na oczy. To znalezisko było niemal cudem, tak jak cudem było zachowanie łączności z baza i bezprecedensowa akcja ratunkowa przez Tybet, która pozwoliła mu ocaleć.

Marciniak został uratowany po skomplikowanej akcji ratunkowej, zoraganizowanej przez Artura Hajzer, w której uczestniczyli m.in. : Rob Hall i Garry Ball.

O samej akcji ratunkowej w kolejnych postach.

* zobacz też :

- Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Chrobak, Climbers, Everest, Falco-Dąsal, Gardzielewski, Heinrich, Khumbutse, Lho La, Marciniak, Otręba, Polish climbers, tragedy | |

Guides

Posted by himalman On 5/29/2009 04:56:00 pm 0 comments

1. Ryszard Pawłowski (24 June 1950) Polish alpine and high-altitude climber and photographer. Member of The Explorers Club.

Ryszard Pawlowski in the founder and co-owner of Patagonia Mountain Agency. He has been climbing since 1970 and is an alpinism instructor and guide. He has climbed the mountains of North and South America, the Himalayas, Alps, Caucasus, Pamirs and Tien Shain.

He has summitted Everest three times 5/13/94, 5/12/95, and 5/18/99.

… more : - Ryszard Pawłowski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

2. Krzysztof Wielicki

Krzysztof Wielicki the famous Polish climber.

Krzysztof Wielicki (born January 5, 1950 in Szklarka Przygodzicka, Poland)- Polish alpine and high - altitude climber.

One of the most outstanding himalaists of the world.

He is the fifth man to climb all fourteen - eight-thousanders.

On three of them: Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga and Lhotse, he climbed as the first man ever to do it in winter.

Member of The Explorers Club.

.. more : - Krzysztof Wielicki one of the famous Polish climber./ Version polish and english /

* see : – Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

3.Maciej Berbeka

-the Tatra Mountain guide IVBV/UIAGM, the member of Mountain Rescue Service TOPR, the climber, participant and expeditions leader to Himalaya and Karakorum. Graduated Fine Art Academy in Cracow.

Przewodnik tatrzański i międzynarodowy IVBV/UIAGM, ratownik TOPR, taternik, himalaista, uczestnik i kierownik wypraw w Himalaje i Karakorum.

Studia ukończył na krakowskiej Akademii Sztuk Pięknych.

Maciek Berbeka has so far conquered 5 of 14 - 8000m. peaks:
1981 - Annapurna - south face of Annapurna, new route
1984 - Manaslu - first ascent in winter
1985 - Cho - Oyu - first ascent in winter
1988 - Broad Peak - first ascent in winter
1993 - Mt.Everest

… more : - http://www.mrtravel.pl/

* see - Maciej Berbeka the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

4. International Mountain Guides.

.. one of the best mountaineering agency :

- http://www.mountainguides.com/index.shtml

* see :

- International Mountain Guides - one of the best mountaineering agency.

5. Berg Adventures International.

.. one of the best mountaineering agency :

** see :

- Berg Adventures International - one of the best mountaineering agency.

6. Climbing Magazine’s Guide Zone.

** see :

- Climbing.com's Guide Zone.

Climbers, expedition, guides | |

Links

Posted by himalman On 5/29/2009 04:56:00 pm 0 comments

Check out the following websites for more wonderful, amazing resources on travel.

Links 1

www.kw.katowice.pl

Członkowie Wysokogórskiego Klubu w Katowicach twierdzą, iż to najlepszy klub na świecie i nietrudno w to uwierzyć widząc tak sławne nazwiska jak: Chmielowski, Dziędzielewicz, Abgarowicz, Momatiuk, Furmanik, Kiełkowski, Kukuczka, Pawłowski, Wielicki, Sas-Nowosielski, Muller. To miejsce naznaczone takimi indywidualnościami wpływa na charakter i atmosferę klubowych spotkań i dokonań górskich, które są czołowymi, jeśli chodzi o polskie i światowe wyczyny alpinistyczne, a także dają piękne fundamenty w historii tego sportu.

www.himountain.pl

To firma założona w 1990 roku przez trzech himalaistów: Artura Hajzera, Janusza Majera i Ryszarda Wareckiego. Firma specjalizuje się w produkcji całej linii turystyczno-odzieżowej. Wytwarza wysokiej klasy plecaki, kurtki a także sprzęt do wysokokwalifikowanej turystyki górskiej. Od kilku lat firma wprowadziła produkcję i sprzedaż odzieży i sprzętu służących do uprawiania sportów przestrzennych jak i do wszelkiej aktywności na wolnym powietrzu.powietrzu.

www.medeverest.webpark.pl

Medycyna wysokościowa
Twoje zdrowie powyżej 2500m n.p.m. i jednej atmosfery
- Warunki środowiska w górach wysokich
- Proces aklimatyzacji
- Choroby wysokościowe
- Choroby spowodowane zmianami temperatury i promieniowaniem UV
- Dzieci w górach wysokich

www.patagonia.com.pl