Other Routes – part3.

A On May 25, 1960, a Chinese team consisting of Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua and a Tibetan, Gingbu (Konbu) (assisted by Australian Daniel Rattner) makes the first summit via the North Ridge.

B May 13th, 1979, Yugoslav West Ridge expedition, New route on West Ridge. Summit reached by two teams made up by Andrej Stremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik , and then two days later by Stipe Bozic, Stane Belak and Ang Phu. Stane Belak, Ang Phu and Stipe Bozic bivouac at 8300 meters. The next day, Ang Phu tragically fell on the way down and died.

C May 10, 1980, Japan expedition led by Hyoriko Watanabe, New route on West Face and the Horbain Couloir.

D Reinhold Messner (Italy, South Tyrol), via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir, first man to climb Everest alone and without oxygen tanks.

1960: Chinese and Tibetan team of 214 men and women, led by Shih Chan- chun, makes the first summit of Everest via the North Col and Northeast Ridge. Long doubted by Western mountaineers because of the lack of a summit photo and the claim of summiting at night, the photos and film the Chinese did release reveal that they at least climbed the Second Step, the key to the route (although Reinhold Messner claims he possesses documentation proving they didn’t climb it, so far this evidence has not been produced). The final assault party of Wang Fu-chou, Liu Lien-man, Chu Yin-hua, and the Tibetan Gonbu (also known as Gonpa) assaulted the final 15 foot (5 meter) Second Step headwall using pitons and team tactics. After Liu Lien- man repeatedly falls off attempting to lead the pitch, Chu Yin-hua takes off his boots and socks, and using a shoulder stand climbs the
last vertical pitch in bare feet! Exhausted by his effort, Liu Lien- man is forced to halt at 28,600 feet (8,700 meters), but the remaining three climbers make it to the summit where they purportedly leave a plaster bust of Chairman Mao by a rock outcrop.

1980: Solo: Reinhold Messner (Italy) 8/20/80 via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters without the use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.

On May 4-9, 1982, first Soviet Everest expedition, New route on South West Face and South West Pillar.

Nearby is the West Pillar , first climbed in 1982 by a Russian expedition including Eduard Myslovski and Volodya Balyberdin. There were a total of eleven summits on this expedition, and thankfully no fatalities. The route has not been repeated.

On May 4-9, 1982 – 11 climbers summit Everest.

The South Pillar

Another relatively safe route up Everest – if there really is such a thing as a “safe” route on Everest! – is the South Pillar, first climbed in 1980 by Polish super-alpinists Jerzy Kukuczka i and Andrzej Czok.

The route has been climbed in it’s entirety a total of 17 times with one fatality. The Polish team spent 16 days establishing the route through the difficult rock barriers towards the top of the route, so many climbers opt to traverse across to the SE Ridge lower down.

28 climbers have traversed over from this route and safely summited. The one fatality that occurred on the complete S Pillar route was Josef Psotka in 1984, who after successfully summiting was killed in a fall, but it was from the Lhotse Face while descending the standard SE Ridge route. So to date there have been no fatalities on the South Pillar itself.

* Previous story :

- Routes to summit Mount Everest.

- Routes of Mt Everest part 1. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Routes of Mt Everest part 2. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- Routes of Mt Everest part 3. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- Routes of Mt Everest part 4. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- Routes of Mt Everest part 5. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.5. /Version english and polish/

Dziś przedstawię kolejne drogi na szczyt Góry Gór, a ilustruje je zdjęcie poniżej:

Chińska ekspedycja z1960r prowadzona była przez Shih Chan-chuna ; weszła na Przełęcz Północną, a następnie podążała północną i południowo wschodnią granią na wierzchołek. 25 maja szczyt osiągnęli Wang Fu-chou, Chu Yin-hua i Tybetańczyk Gonpa.
Jugosłowiańska wyprawa z 1979r. kierowana przez Tone Skarję dokonała pełnego przejścia zachodniej grani. 13 maja szczyt osiągnęli Andrej Stremfelj i Jenrej Zaplotnik.
Japońska wyprawa z 1980r. kierowana przez Hyoriko Watanabe otworzyła nową drogę środkiem ściany północno-zachodniej , a w górnej partii Kuluarem Hornbeina. 10 maja na szczyt weszli Takashi Ozaki i Tsuneon Shigehiro.
Wariant Messnera z 1980r to nowa droga na ścianie północnej, droga częściowo biegnie północno-wschodnią granią, przecina ścianę północną i dalej prowadzi Wielkim Kuluarem, 20 sierpnia po samotnej wspinaczce wszedł na szczyt Austriak Reinhold Messner ( obecnie największy z żyjących himalaistów ).

Droga rosyjskiej wyprawy z 1982r.;

na południowo zachodniej ścianie i południowym filarze, który pierwszy raz pokonali Polacy Jerzy Kukuczka i Andrzej Czok w sławnej wyprawie z 1980r prowadzonej przez Andrzeja Zawadę.

Rosjanie przeszli nową drogą na filarze z lewej strony na południowo-zachodniej ścianie.

Jak dotąd nikt nie powtórzył tej drogi.

Pomiędzy 4 a 9 maja na szczycie stanęło aż 11 wspinaczy.

Droga rosyjska na filarze południowo-zachodniej ściany. /zdj po prawo/

* Zapraszam też do oglądania albumu o Everescie, wystarczy kliknąć link : Odkrywanie Everestu

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* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

The one of the normal routes to climb Mount Everest :

North Col – North East Ridge Route

Base Camp: 17,000ft — ABC: 21,300ft — Camp 1: 23,000ft — Camp 2: 24,750ft — Camp 3: 25,600ft — Camp 4: 27,400ft

First Step: 27,890ft — Second Step: 28,140ft — Third Step: 28,510ft

All heights are approx.

Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp (ABC)

Base Camp is situated on a gravel plain just below the Rongbuk Monastery. From here to ABC it is about a 12 mile trek along the Rongbuk Glacier which is mostly made up of small boulders, with some snow and ice, up to the East Rongbuk Glacier. Here you will walk among the ice towers, which can be up to a 100 foot tall, before arriving into ABC.

ABC to Camp 1

ABC is located on rocky and broken ground, and at times can be very windy. From here you follow the fairly easy to moderate route up the East Rongbuk Glacier, and then up the snow slopes to the North Col, which is where you will find Camp 1

Camp 1 to Camp 2

The North Col Camp sits on a saddle between Everest and Changtse. This camp can be at times extremely windy. From the saddle you follow the long moderate snow slope, which eventually changes to a mixture of rock and snow, to the snow ledge where Camp 2 is normally placed.

Camp 2 to Camp 3

Due to a lack of good camping spots at Camp 2, most tents will end up being pitched uncomfortably on down facing rock ledges. The route between Camp 2 and Camp 3 is traditionally very windy. The terrain is made up of rock and shingle steps, which is all fairly easy, but a slip here could mean certain death. There are fixed ropes in place to offer some security.

Camp 3 to Camp 4

Camp 3 is a deafening place to be because of the roar of the wind. From Camp 3 some climbers will start to use oxygen support. The route is a mixture of rock steps and medium snow slopes. There is the help of the fixed rope, but this is mainly used to stop you from taking the wrong direction rather than secure you to the mountain.

Camp 4 to Summit

Camp 4 is small and uncomfortable, but your aim is to spend as little time here as possible. All climbers are on oxygen support now, except the very brave. Leaving Camp 4 in the dark you ascend into the Yellow Band, which in places is steep, up onto the North East Ridge. Along this ridge you will come across your first obstacle, the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress about 100 feet in height. This Step is quite straightforward but can be challenging at this altitude. Some steep and exposed climbing will then lead you onto the Second Step. The Second Step is the hardest of all three Steps. It is in two sections, the lower part consists of large boulders, and then a steep snow gully that leads you onto the fixed ladder. Overall it is about a 130feet in height. After another short climb you come up against the Third Step. This Step is said to be the easiest off all three. It is a 80 foot high lump of rock, that you can either climb, or go around it on the steep snowslopes. Once this last Step is dealt with you will then find yourself on the Summit Pyramid. This is a steep snowfield that ends about 60 foot below the summit. Then all that is between you and the summit is the medium snow slope, which will lead you to the top of the world.

There is one of most famous photo in the world.
George Mallory and Edward Norton – Everest at 8200 m. They ascended without use of oxygen.

British expedition – 1922 r.

take a look at my photo gallery which pictures the story of the discovery and climbing the Mt. Everest :

- discovery and climbing Everest.

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* Previous story :

- Routes to summit Mount Everest.

- Routes of Mt Everest part 1. Drogi na szczyt Mt. Everest cz.1. /Version english and polish/

George Mallory wraz z Edwardem Nortonem sfotografowani na wysokości 8200 m po północnej stronie Everestu , wspinają się bez tlenu mając skromne wyposażenie.

To zdjęcie z wyprawy z 1922r obiegło cały świat , stając się jednym z najsławniejszych zdjęć na świecie.

Więcej ciekawych zdjęć z pierwszych wypraw chcących zdobyć Everest zobaczysz klikając na link : - discovery and climbing Everest.

Mt Everest from Rombok Gompa

Drogi na szczyt Everestu.

Mapa powyżej przedstawia drogę na szczyt Everestu od strony Tybetu. Była to droga jaką Brytyjczycy podejmowali próby zdobycia szczytu w latach 1921 d0 1938 r. Były to próby niestety nieudane , pierwszego zdobycia Everestu dokonano bowiem od strony Nepalu. Do dziś droga ta uważana jest za tą trudniejszą.

Na zdjęciu pokazano usytuowanie poszczególnych obozów w drodze na szczyt Everestu, ale należy zwrócić uwagę , że to współczesny plan obozów, nieco inny niż ten z lat dwudziestych i trzydziestych.

Podobna drogą zdobywał szczyt polski himalaista młodego pokolenia Marcin Miotk. Jego wyczyn jest tym cenniejszy , że było to zdobycie szczytu bez tlenu i bez pomocy Sherpów !!!

Droga wejściowa - Everest North 2005 - pierwsze polskie wejście bez użycia tlenu.

Więcej o wyprawach Marcina na stronie www.miotk.pl

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* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

From 1921 to 1938 all the British attempts were made via the North Col – North East Ridge route from Tibet.

After the Second World War all routes to Mount Everest were forbidden and closed. In 1951 China occupied Tibet, the Chinese stopped all foreign travellers from gaining access to Everest from the traditional route. The British turned there sights to the South Side in Nepal. Permission was granted, which eventually led to the successful 1953 Expedition.

Today, you can reach Mount Everest from both Tibet and Nepal. They both welcome climbers and visitors from all over the world.

The two normal routes to climb Mount Everest are the South Col – South East Ridge from Nepal and the North Col – North East Ridge from Tibet. There are other routes that will get you to the summit of Everest, although these are not very often used now a days.

Other Routes

West Ridge Hornbein Couloir, South West Face, West Ridge Direct, Japanese Couloir, South Pillar, South West Pillar, North East Ridge – North Face – Norton Couloir 1, North East Ridge – North Face – Norton Couloir 2, East Face American Butress, The Great Couloir, West Ridge from Tibet – Hornbein Couloir, East Face – South Col, Below North Col – North Face – Norton Couloir, The Complete North East Ridge, North – North East Direct, Central North Face Direct.

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* Previous story : - Routes to summit Mount Everest.

Drogi na szczyt Everestu.

Mapa satelitarna przedstawia drogi jakimi zdobywano szczyt Everestu. Są wśród nich i te “łatwiejsze” i trudniejsze oraz te związane ze zła sławą, jak np. droga polskiej wyprawy z maja 1989r gdy zdobycie szczytu opłacono tragiczna śmiercią 5-ciu himalaistów, a tylko zdobywca szczytu A. Marciniak zdołał ocaleć po bezprecedensowej akcji ratunkowej jaką poprowadził Artur Hajzer, zobacz posty : Akcja ratunkowa na Mt. Everest1989r . O wyprawie tej napisano książek : “Dosięgnąć Everestu” -Dorota Kobierowska. Zawsze należy pamiętać że żadna droga, nawet uważana za łatwa, nie gwarantuje zdobycia szczytu, a czasem może skończyć sie tragedią, o takiej pisze Jon Krakauer w książce “Wszystko za Everest”

Inna bardzo ciekawa mapę można znaleźć na… http://www.mounteverest.net/page/gearandstuff.htm

Kolejny post pokaże drogi jakimi zdobywano Everest , zapraszam serdecznie.

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* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga :

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.